Paul for Model Number 20237 I have attempted twice now to follow up on my previous question and have not received any answer or even an email acknowledgement that I raised a followup. Perhaps if I pose this as a new question you will see it. Using a multimeter, I have determined that your answer to my previous question is incorrect. In the old switches it was true that L2/H2 was the side that cycled. In the new switches, L1/H1 is the side that cycles as I proposed in my question. For a stove that uses a common connection to the burners, it -is- necessary to switch the wires (the wire to the old H2 needs to go to H1 on the new switch and the wire to the old H1 needs to go to HC on the new switch). At the same time, it is critical that the switches for one side of the stove also be replaced as a pair and both wired in the new way. Wiring only one in the new way will cause a short circuit that at a minimum will burn out a switch. Replacing one or both switches and just using HC as the new H2 will lead to some variation of the symptom that I raised in my original question. I did replace both switches (as I mentioned in the previous question) and I changed the wiring as described above and now my stove works correctly. You need to post a warning about this issue for this replacement switch.
Answer Paul, On the switch, the L1 is your power supply in and H1 is power supply out from the L1. The L2 is the second power supply into the switch and the HC would be the power supply out from the L2. This is the way the switch is designed and you would not need to switch wires to get the part to operate properly that the manufacturer has stated. Read More... Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com | Tuesday, August 13, 2019