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Customer Questions and Answers for Control Board by Whirlpool

4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18040473
Manufacturer Part Number: WP8574969

This is a washing machine control board. It is also known as the mainboard or motherboard and manages the timing of the washing machine. This part also makes sure all proper washer functions are carried out when appropriate. The control board controls the drive motor, fill valves, and drain pump. If this part is damaged, button presses may not work. The washing machine may not start or complete certain cycles.If the control board is damaged or non-functioning, it will need to be replaced. However, before starting, make sure the washing machine is disconnected from power. The water supply should also be shut off. Pull the washing machine away from the wall and take off the control knob before removing the back panel. Take out the control board and reconnect the wires to the new component before reassembly.The control board has been created to be compatible with Kenmore washing machines. It's directly sourced from the manufacturer as a genuine OEM replacement part. This component is sold individually.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Control Board (Part Number: OEM18040473)

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Larry for Model Number 110.47532601

I ran the diagnostic test. The first (most resent) error code was F26. The next error code was F20. I replaced the door switch assembly. Same error codes. The diagnostic test stopped at the first step and would not continue. I unplugged the unit, and manually released the door latch. I plugged the unit in to the outlet, and the control panel appeared fine (ie could switch between cycles). I shut the door, set the cycle to Rinse/Drain and Spin, pressed the 2nd rinse button, and then pressed start. The door latched and the 'Add Garment Light' illuminated. I pressed 'Stop' and the 15 min timer light began flashing. I pressed 'Stop' a second time and the 'Door Locked Light' illuminated and the 'Add garment light' began flashing. At this time, none of the buttons would function. I acts like the program is out of sequence (ie latching the door). Can it be reset? What other items can I check? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Larry

Answer

Larry, For the F26 error code you will want to do the following to find out why error code is coming up. • Power ON the machine, open the door and then close. • The door must not remain closed more than 3 consecutives cycles. - Unplug washer or disconnect power. - Check all wire harness connections between the door lock (pink, blue & black wires) and the CCU (DLS2, DS2, and DL3 cavities) are not broken or wires detached and connector internal pins are visible. - Check continuity from the door switch connector (blue wires) and the CCU (DS2 cavity connector). - If the continuity diagnosis failed the Main Harness must be replaced. - Check door switch contacts (black wires). -The resistance of both door coils (between pin 1 and 3) should be approx. 320 O. - Press the door switch button and at the same time check for continuity between the internal pins of the switch connector (DS2 cavity at CCU). If there is non continuity when the door switch is pushed, door lock must be replaced. - Plug in washer or reconnect power cord. - Verify the unit operation by perform the Diagnostic Test cycle. See page 5. - After the diagnostic test has finished, unplug washer or disconnect power cord and wait for 15 seconds For the F20 Error code which is for no water being detected you will want to do the following: - Check if the home has low water pressure, open the water faucets. - Un plug washer or disconnect power - Make sure that cold and hot valve at the water source(s) are turned on all the way. - Check for plugged or kinked inlet hoses or plugged screens in the inlet valves. - Check all hoses for possible leaks. - Check if the customer used an after market “no flood” hose. This can sometimes stop the flow of water to the washer. - Check all wire harness connections from Inlet Valves (cold and hot), Drain Pump, Pressure Switch & CCU (PR6, DP2 & VCH7 cavities connectors) are not broken or wires detached and connector internal pins are visible. - Check the continuity between the following components: A. Inlet valve connectors (cold and hot) to the CCU (VCH7 cavity) B. Drain Pump & CCU (DP2 cavity) connectors C. Pressure Switch & CCU (PR6 cavity) connectors. -If the continuity diagnosis failed, Main Harness must be replaced. - Check that the resistance of the Inlet valve in each port of the valve (cold & hot). - Make continuity test to the Pressure SW. See page 8. - Verify that the pressure switch hose is in good condition and properly connected to tub and pressure switch. - Check hose for possible leaks. Remove hose from pressure switch. Make sure that the open part where the hose is connected doesn’t have debris. - Check pressure switch operation. Remove pressure switch. Blowing air through the opening part, the two internal switches are heard one by one. - Check for Suds. - Verify there is not a siphon problem. - Make sure that all the connectors are fully seated. - Plug in washer or reconnect power cord. - Verify the unit operation by running the Diagnostic Test cycle. - After the diagnostic test has finished, unplug washer or disconnect power cord and wait for 15 seconds.

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Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com   |   Thursday, April 4, 2013

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