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Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Heating Element by Whirlpool

Sale
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM9282771
Manufacturer Part Number: 279838

Restore full heat and end long dry cycles - install the Whirlpool OEM Dryer Heating Element.

Why this heating element?

  • Factory-spec 5400 W / 240 V heating element with nickel-chromium coil - built by Whirlpool to Whirlpool OEM standards.
  • Broad compatibility: fits Whirlpool, Kenmore 110-series, Roper, Estate, Amana, Maytag & more 27-inch dryers.
  • Built to last: high-temp terminals & mica insulation resist fatigue and hotspots.

Fixes these common dryer problems

Problem How the element solves it
No heat / cold drum Replaces burned-out coil to restore heating circuit
Takes forever to dry Full wattage brings drum back to target temperature
Stops mid-cycle Prevents over-cycling caused by faulty element
Burning smell New coil eliminates hot-spot arcing & insulation burn


DIY install — about 20 minutes

  1. Unplug dryer and remove back panel to access heater housing.
  2. Disconnect wires; remove housing screws and slide assembly out.
  3. Swap old element for new, re-use hi-limit thermostat if still good.
  4. Re-assemble, run test cycle - enjoy fast, even drying.

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$53.95
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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element (Part Number: OEM9282771)

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Answer

Tom, first, check to see that you are getting 240 volts at the terminal block. You should read 120 volts from black to white, 120 volts from red to white, and 240 volts from black to red. If the voltage is not there, you have a voltage problem in the house. If voltage is good, take the back of the console panel off and with the timer turned to run, you should read 120 volts coming out of the red wire at the timer. If voltage is good, unplug dryer, remove the solid red wire going to the heating element, plug back in, start dryer and check for 120 volts at the wire connection you had removed, should read 120 volts. We are looking for the side that is not sending voltage to the heater, either the timer side or the motor side. You would need to replace the timer or the motor, depending on which side is loosing voltage. With the dryer unplugged, you should be able to read continuity through the red wire coming off of the timer, all the way to the heater. If no continuity, a thermostat or thermal fuse is open.

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Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com   |   Friday, December 21, 2018

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