How to Troubleshoot & Replace Samsung AP5176331 / DA97-08518D Refrigerator Dispenser Cover Assembly

The commentary on the web site talked about the clicking and no compressor running. It mentioned it could be the compressor relay and the thermal overheat device was kicking off the power to keep the compressor from over heating. They said if the relay rattled after you took it off the compressor, that it would be bad. Well, the relay did not rattle. I thought maybe the compressor capacitor was bad, but the top of the cap with the connections was not domed at all (it was completely flat) which usually indicates a good cap. Replaced just the relay first. Worked like a charm when I plugged it in. The 12 yr old relay was just old and broke. It was very easy to replace. The new relay had a different number than the old part but stated it was the replacement to use. I would recommend that anyone take a picture of the setup before parts are removed so you know what wire goes where and how the thing is oriented. It has been a week since the relay was replaced and the system is running the usual -4F freezer with a 38F fridge section. All for less than 9 dollars +shipping for the relay. What a deal. The initial diagnosis took about an hour. I never did it before. The replacement took 15 minutes. 

Removed lower rear cover, compressor was very hot. This is usually a capacitor issue, but the schematic on the back of the unit shows a start/ run relay. For the low cost, I replaced both. parts were delivered in 2 days. The start/ run relay is mounted directly to the compressor. It slides on/ off with a little bit of prying. No fasteners. The start capacitor is inside a white plastic housing on the lower right corner of the unit. Phillips screwdriver is all you need to complete the job. I was worried that the compressor may have been damaged (the compressor was hot for hours after being unplugged) but it works perfectly now. 

Some basic research and reading others troubleshooting lead me to try to force start the compressor. It wouldn't run under force start and most other comments pointed to the starter relay or compressor being bad. I ordered the starter relay and overload relay from Appliance Pros. Got them in 3 days. Took 10 minutes to install and then it fired right up. My wife was very impressed with my skills, but in all honesty it was an educated guess based on others who had done this fix. Thanks! 

I replaced the start relay and compressor overload protector. 

Within 10 minutes replaced main board. That's it. 

After reading the several reviews, I removed the unit by removing the bottom screw then firmly (not too hard!) pulled out the part. The replacement fit perfectly and I was done in less than ten minutes. Actually, the hardest time was uncoupling the wiring harness but I finally got it! 

Checked the Compressor for continuity with the fridge unplugged. So no problem with the Compressor. Next I vacuumed the Condenser Coils after a while they were dusty. Evaporator Fan motor was working, Control Board was good. So the problem was the Compressor Overload & Start Relay. After I replaced these I set the Freezer & Fridge temperature and it took a few hours for both compartments to get back to normal temperature. Select Power Freeze & Power Cool if your fridge has this option. This would have cost hundreds of dollars if a Service Tech was called & they probably would have suggested buying a new Compressor & Control Board which you probably don't need. Only tools i used was a Multimeter & Phillips Screw Driver. Hope this helps and saves you money. 

Tested compressor ten ohms. Tested start relay 5 kilo-ohms. Order relay that came on time. Put in new relay and voila the refrigerator works. 

Fridge would not turn on(clicking noise)....on youtube and APP they said its most likely start relay...I replaced start relay and compressor overload for $25...but it didn't fix the problem...I hired a technician to trouble shoot the problem...and he said it was the capacitor located next to motherboard...they wanted $240 to replace it...i said thanks and ordered the capacitor from this website for $18 dollars...$50 dollars for diagnostic work...still came up $200...i had to unplug two wires to change the capacitor, too easy! 

After the OEM MK Type of compressor replacement I used aftermarket "Three In One" starter relay. Noticed that the Compressor current ran higher than the OEM Compressor datasheet. Removed the aftermarket start relay and Replaced it with the the OEM Relay PTC, OLP and capacitor. The Compressor current dropped from 2.14A to 1.45A which was right where supposed to be by the datasheet.