How to Troubleshoot & Replace Whirlpool AP4008679 / 12002125 Cooktop Dual Infinite Switch Kit

Apparently the wiring on the older Jenn-Air units has changed since the release of the instructions for the dual element switch... If you have the Older Jenn-Air CVE3400 as I did, follow the following instructions for Wiring: From Top Left Moving clockwise... Move 5 -> S2 on new switch Move N -> P2 on new switch (This is a compound wire connection, one wire to power feed, the other to L2 on Left front switch) Move 4 -> 4a on new switch Move 3 -> 4 on new switch Move 2 -P1 on new switch Run jumper from Second P1 to S1, Both on new switch Now you will have an unoccupied "2" terminal. Go to the infinite switch for the right front burner and find the compound "red" wire connection @ L2. Disconnect the Compound connection and install new connectors. Take the wire from L2 (daisy chained to the other switches and re-attach to L2 on the right front switch. You will now be left with a red wire that runs to the dual burner @ back left. ReRoute that wire to the unoccupied "2" on the dual burner infinite switch. Test and reinstall. The last steps were never identified in any instructions... I had to work backwards from the original wiring schematic to determine how it should be run. No instructions were delivered in the package, and the sheet emailed to me had incorrect confusing instructions... Hope this helps! 

Shut off circuit breaker. Uncoupled wires connecting unit with breaker. Removed entire built in down draft ceramic electric stove top from counter top, flipped it over and supported it on foam blocks. Removed the steel body (about 15 1/4" screws) that contained burners and controls.Switch was mounted in steel body on support leg that had to be removed to replace switch. Replaced switch and reassembled in reverse order. 

The instructions on the new switch did a pretty good job of accounting for differences. However, there's one thing in the instructions that threw me off, and by the sounds of it others here too: the piggyback connection to L2. The instructions say those red wires need to be separated. In the case of my cooktop, it was a piggyback connection but a different setup: it was just power in, sharing to the right rear burner switch. So that stays as it is on L2, and the other single red wire that goes to the element limiter goes to 2. The other thing that wasn't clear to me was whether to use a jumper (provided), since my old switch didn't have it. Looking at the diagram, I put it on since all that jumper does is give power to the switch's "on" light. Everything works great. I took extra care to note the wire colors and pole labels before pulling out the old switch, and I'd suggest you do the same. 

I ordered the replacement switch. I could not figure out the schematic color code from the old switch to the replacement switch. I called and Michael was able to tell me what color went where on the new switch. 

When I removed the glass I realized there was a disconnected wire. Just cleaned the connection and re-connected the wire and the burner worked. Need to return the one you sent me. As far as the other burner with the bad switch goes. I ordered the wrong switch. That will be returned to you also. Thank You, Tom P. 

REPLACED DUAL ELEMENT AND SWITCH KIT 

I removed the old switch, noting the colors. I compared the supplied diagram with the appliance diagram, and ultimately believed the write-up, split the red wires, and it works! 

Replaces with new from appliance parts