How to Troubleshoot & Replace Whirlpool AP6023710 / WPW10671941 Sump And Motor Assembly

In the interest of "1 repair 1 time" - For the price point value Appliance Parts Pros offered, I ordered the entire Whirlpool sump assembly APP# AP6023710 (WPW10671941) after the seal on the Diverter Motor APP# AP5650272 (W10537869) failed. The sump assembly replaced almost the entire "core" parts except for the drain pump (APP# AP6020066 (WPW10348269) and turbidity sensor - APP# AP6023867(WPW10705575). I knew the turbidity sensor was operational since the dishwasher wouldn't run at all if not and decided to also replace the drain pump. The Whirlpool dishwasher was ballpark $700 at purchase. The unit sustained 8 years of daily use for a 4 person family before a 26% overhaul cost of $200 and about 2 hours. These figures for me are in a very acceptable range. Appliance Parts Pros helped make that possible. The swap out process for me was fairly straight forward. The process isn't physically demanding but does require moderate attention to detail. I recommend the following tips in conjunction to watching the site's help videos for work ease and damage prevention prior to starting. 1. Photograph inside of unit to record plumping configuration and remove both upper and lower dish rack assembly. The upper dish rack assembly has clips at the front of the wheel rack to keep the wheels in place. If you need a tool you're probably doing it wrong. 2. Remove sump screens and set them to the side. Remove the lower twist on/off spray bar and set to the side. Then using a #2 phillips remove the connecting spray plumbing assembly via 2 screws - Again if you need high level of force or a separate tool you're probably doing it wrong. Note portions of the plumbing assembly snaps fastens together so be careful. 3. Ensure water and power are shut off via valve and breaker then safely move the dishwasher to a workable area. Gently place the unit on its side having a towel close by to capture any water. 4. Photograph the settings and location of the door springs and disconnect them to allow easy egress to the inside of the dishwasher. 5. Photograph the bottom of the unit to record wiring colors and locations as well as part location and assembly orientation. The wiring harnesses have retention clips so be careful when removing them. 6. Photograph the orientation of the sump and disassemble. Make sure to include a couple wider area photos. During disassembly note the assembly pilot marker where the sump seal and tub meet. Be patient and gentle removing the sump assembly. Once removed clean and dry the area of the tub where the seal was. 7. Reorient the dishwasher to an upright position to reinstall the new sump in proper orientation using the assembly pilot marker and wide area photos. For my dishwasher the new sump required even distributed force to properly set seal to where the edge of the tub fit into a groove of the seal. 8. From there I was able to gently set the dishwasher back on its side, slowly work the remaining portions of the tub and seal into proper assembly, reinstall the turbidity sensor & drain pump, then refasten the wiring without breaking my back. 9. Placing the dishwasher upright again I was able to reassemble the internal spray bar plumbing and dish racks. Remember most parts do not require the use of any tool and have some form of retention method whether clip on or twist on w/ a snap & click etc - If you feel you're using moderate to high levels of force go back to the videos or look for other part retention methods. Best of luck 

I bought a new main wash motor/pump and to my very pleasant surprise it came with the whole lower assembly. So with that I bought a new drain pump too, because the bearing it it was a bit sloppy. Now, except for the main circuit board, all main operating parts in the dishwasher are new. The how-to-videos are very helpful. It's not a big job to replace the whole assembly, but took a little patience to get it to set in as it should. After completion, there were no leaks. 

Replaced the sump and motor assembly 

My online research suggested three potential problems... issues with the latch, the control panel not functioning or the pump not working. Further research suggested that the control panel is almost never the problem. That left the latch or pump. The first thing I tried was replacing the latch. It's a quick and easy repair thanks to video from AppliancePartsPros.com.. Unfortunately, it did not fix the problem. So, the next thing I did was replace the sump and motor assembly and followed the steps described in the video. Note, before ordering the new part, I first removed the old one. This gave me confidence that I could complete the job. Although the process has many steps, everything was straightforward and accurately described in the video. One caveat... I needed to have my son push down on the assembly as I turned the clamps to lock it in place. It was a tight fit. I should mention that there is a process available to test if the pump is inoperable (before just trying to replace it). However, it involves using an electrical multimeter to test if the pump is getting power. I don't have a meter and wasn't confident in conducting the proper test. So I decided to just try and replace the sump/pump assembly. 

I replaced the sump pump and motor assembly. I ordered in the afternoon and had part in hand the next morning. I was up and running in less than 24 hours. Thanks for the exceptional service. 

Pump motor was bad. I could have (fairly) simply replaced just the motor but it is not sold separately (even though it is fairly easy to remove). So I bought the entire bottom of the dishwasher. Also fairly easy to replace. Pull out dishwasher. Lay on front. Unplug connections. Push out from the bottom. Replace. Reconnect. OK I left a few details out but that’s about it 

Replaced the circulation pump with assembly, works like its new again. 

Replaced motor the same day I received it, runs like a new dish washer.