Whirlpool WPW10671941 Sump And Motor Assembly OEM Part

I began the repair process with basic troubleshooting. The two-year-old Whirlpool dishwasher was not washing. At first, I thought it was not getting water. I did a system drain which removed most of the water. I waited a few minutes then attempted a light wash cycle without success, but I did hear the unit getting water. And I noticed the detergent cube slightly moistened on the floor of the washer. Google led me to your YouTube videos. I assumed (and hoped) it was the pump. From what I read the assembly was the easiest way for a non-professional to repair the appliance. I ordered the assembly the Saturday before Christmas; we had been without a dishwasher for eight days and handwashing was getting very old indeed. Checkout on your website allows different shipping options from basic to the next day. I chose the “Standard” as it looked like it would get here within a week. It was here the next Tuesday, Christmas Eve! Guess what I did Christmas Day? I decided it was easier for me to remove the dishwasher from under the counter so I could access the bottom directly as my flexibility is limited. It also allowed me to leave the water and electric connections intact; I did turn both water and power off. Before starting on the assembly, I removed the interior racks, strainers, and water channels putting all the small parts in a zip-lock bag. I laid the front of the unit down on towels to prevent scratching the stainless steel and to allow access to the bottom. I removed all electrical connections to the pumps, the turbidity sensor, drain line, and drain pump as recommended by your YouTube video. After all, was done, I unlocked the retention tabs and attempted to remove the assembly. The old assembly needed some physical persuasion, as in a serious love tap, to dislodge from the bottom of the machine. Once loose I righted the dishwasher and removed the assembly from the interior. I removed the new assembly from the packaging and placed it on the interior bottom. It did not snap in place as your video showed. This was the most difficult task for me. I ended up locking one retainer tab and using a home-built lever to pry the assembly into place than returning the washer face down and locking the other two retaining tabs. Once in place, I reinstalled all electrical connections dressing all wires in the appropriate clips. Whirlpool engineers did make this part easy as each plug has small teeth arranged so it is unique to each motor. I installed all interior parts, re-installed the dishwasher under the counter, then restored water and power. I ran a light wash and checked for leaks; once I confirmed the repair was a success, I installed the bottom kick-plate. The repair was not extremely difficult for someone handy; maybe a 5 on a 1-10 scale. I have some health issues that prevented me from continuous repair tasks, so it took me a couple of hours. But if I look at the total time spent; it was probably less than 45 minutes. As with all jobs, take notes, use your smartphone camera to record what things look like before you start, and use common sense. Safety should always be your first concern; make sure you minimize shock hazards and avoid rushing. Benjamin Franklin is quoted as saying “haste makes waste”, a good bit of advice in today's’ “gotta have it now” world.

In the interest of "1 repair 1 time" - For the price point value Appliance Parts Pros offered, I ordered the entire Whirlpool sump assembly APP# AP6023710 (WPW10671941) after the seal on the Diverter Motor APP# AP5650272 (W10537869) failed. The sump assembly replaced almost the entire "core" parts except for the drain pump (APP# AP6020066 (WPW10348269) and turbidity sensor - APP# AP6023867(WPW10705575). I knew the turbidity sensor was operational since the dishwasher wouldn't run at all if not and decided to also replace the drain pump. The Whirlpool dishwasher was ballpark $700 at purchase. The unit sustained 8 years of daily use for a 4 person family before a 26% overhaul cost of $200 and about 2 hours. These figures for me are in a very acceptable range. Appliance Parts Pros helped make that possible. The swap out process for me was fairly straight forward. The process isn't physically demanding but does require moderate attention to detail. I recommend the following tips in conjunction to watching the site's help videos for work ease and damage prevention prior to starting. 1. Photograph inside of unit to record plumping configuration and remove both upper and lower dish rack assembly. The upper dish rack assembly has clips at the front of the wheel rack to keep the wheels in place. If you need a tool you're probably doing it wrong. 2. Remove sump screens and set them to the side. Remove the lower twist on/off spray bar and set to the side. Then using a #2 phillips remove the connecting spray plumbing assembly via 2 screws - Again if you need high level of force or a separate tool you're probably doing it wrong. Note portions of the plumbing assembly snaps fastens together so be careful. 3. Ensure water and power are shut off via valve and breaker then safely move the dishwasher to a workable area. Gently place the unit on its side having a towel close by to capture any water. 4. Photograph the settings and location of the door springs and disconnect them to allow easy egress to the inside of the dishwasher. 5. Photograph the bottom of the unit to record wiring colors and locations as well as part location and assembly orientation. The wiring harnesses have retention clips so be careful when removing them. 6. Photograph the orientation of the sump and disassemble. Make sure to include a couple wider area photos. During disassembly note the assembly pilot marker where the sump seal and tub meet. Be patient and gentle removing the sump assembly. Once removed clean and dry the area of the tub where the seal was. 7. Reorient the dishwasher to an upright position to reinstall the new sump in proper orientation using the assembly pilot marker and wide area photos. For my dishwasher the new sump required even distributed force to properly set seal to where the edge of the tub fit into a groove of the seal. 8. From there I was able to gently set the dishwasher back on its side, slowly work the remaining portions of the tub and seal into proper assembly, reinstall the turbidity sensor & drain pump, then refasten the wiring without breaking my back. 9. Placing the dishwasher upright again I was able to reassemble the internal spray bar plumbing and dish racks. Remember most parts do not require the use of any tool and have some form of retention method whether clip on or twist on w/ a snap & click etc - If you feel you're using moderate to high levels of force go back to the videos or look for other part retention methods. Best of luck

I bought a new main wash motor/pump and to my very pleasant surprise it came with the whole lower assembly. So with that I bought a new drain pump too, because the bearing it it was a bit sloppy. Now, except for the main circuit board, all main operating parts in the dishwasher are new. The how-to-videos are very helpful. It's not a big job to replace the whole assembly, but took a little patience to get it to set in as it should. After completion, there were no leaks.

Replaced motor the same day I received it, runs like a new dish washer.

Pump motor was bad. I could have (fairly) simply replaced just the motor but it is not sold separately (even though it is fairly easy to remove). So I bought the entire bottom of the dishwasher. Also fairly easy to replace. Pull out dishwasher. Lay on front. Unplug connections. Push out from the bottom. Replace. Reconnect. OK I left a few details out but that’s about it