I googled the error code and symptoms my oven was exhibiting to determine the solution and which parts to order. I needed a new control panel and chose also to replace the overlay that shows on the front of the stove. I could have reused the old one because I turned out to be able to remove it without damaging it. I just kept it in case I damage the new one in the future. The “fast” shipping (not overnight) option had the part delivered the next morning, which was a nice surprise.
I felt confident about DIY, though I’m an older housewife without a lot of appliance repair experience because I’d read other reviews here. I googled replacing the control panel on my model of the stove and found a YouTube video that walked me through the steps. I pulled out my stove from the wall, unplugged it and turned off the gas valve at the wall just in case I had compromised the connection. I’m risk-averse.
I used a screwdriver with exchangeable bits, which doubled as a nut driver and used it to remove the six hex-head screws holding the upper back panel on the stove, being careful not to let the panel fall as I removed the last screw. I put the screws in a bowl to keep everything organized.
Before removing the four Phillips head screws holding the control panel in place, I compared it to the new one to be sure it was the same and that I knew where all of the wires would connect to it. Then, I used my phone to snap a photo of the back of the old control panel so that I could be sure of which wires and plugs went where after I had unplugged them. It’s actually pretty apparent, but the photo gave me a solid reference. I removed the screws from the four corners of the control panel and added them to the bowl. They are different from others. Then I gently unplugged the various wire connections. One connection was not plastic and was harder to remove, so I used a pair of needle-nosed pliers to grasp the metal part of the conveyer and wiggle it off.
On the new panel, I removed the backing from the new overlay and carefully centered it on the front of the control panel and pressed to make sure the adhesive sealed the two together all the way around, making sure all of the edges were even so that all buttons would be centered on the correct part of the panel. Then, I began plugging the stove wire connectors in as shown in the photo it took before fitting the new control panel into place and securing it with the four Phillips-head screws. I checked the front of the stove to be sure there were no gaps or debris between the overlay and stove frame.
Finally, I replaced the back panel, sliding the upper tabs back under the frame and installed the center top screw. I waited to fully tighten it until I had the other screws installed. I plugged in the stove, which lighted up properly, and reset the clock to ensure that the new panel was working. I turned the gas valve on again, checked for any gas smell, the. Pushed the stove back into place. Then, I tested all of the oven functions to ensure they were working properly, which they were.
I would rate this as an easy fix. Nothing difficult to figure out or requiring more than common tools. The hardest part was moving the stove. Watching the video, taking the photo of the wiring and staying organized made the whole thing go smoothly and took about twenty minutes.