Changed ignitor.
Ordered new ignitor by just putting dryer model number in the search box.
When I opened the dryer up and took the old one out I was originally upset. The meter read 73 ohms. I was expecting OL (open line). The new one read 273 ohms so I put it in. Dryer works now.
The install video’s are old. It was much easier than the video’s showed. Opening the control panel was a little trickier than the video. You do NOT need to take screws off the back of the dryer. There are 2 screws that hold the control panel to the top of the dryer. One on the back left and one on the back right. They face down and not visible from the front but easy to find. Remove the two screws, pop the panel straight back and it loosens up. There are 2 more screws that hold the top down when you remove the control panel. One in each corner. Open the dryer front door and remove the two hidden screws that face up, they hold the top in place. You can now lift the top panel up and remove the two screws that hold the front panel in place. Again one near the top left and right. Lift up on the dryer front panel and you can swing it open to the left. You need a stubby Phillips screwdriver to remove the ignitor. It just unplugs from the wiring harness. You do NOT need to remove the drum. Easier than the video’s online. The hardest part of the job is getting on your hands and knees to remove the ignitor. Get a good soft knee pad from Menards. I’m 67 years old and consider this an easy job. I don’t do anything in less than 15 minutes. Never tell your wife it was an easy job. Remember to unplug the dryer before you start. Clean out the lint good before you close it up. Don’t be laazzzy. I was surprised by all the lint in there. Open up, change part, cleanup, close up, put the dryer back in place and test about 90 minutes.