Ge WB27X10037 Diode Assembly OEM Part

14 year old GE Profile microwave wouldn't heat, but had power. Read reviews here. Ordered triumvirate of magnetron, capacitor, & diode. Was hoping not to need the capacitor as this was an expensive part; and if not needed to return to AppliancePartsPros, which has been SOP. After watching a couple YouTube videos of microwave capacitors being shorted, I made a capacitor discharge tool ordering 24W 100K Ohm resistor and high voltage test wires w/ alligator clips from amazon. At the same time, make sure to order tamper proof star key, T-15 size (I think) or a set. I have a lot of tools, and saw other reviews that torx was needed, which I have a full set and then some of. But these are torx-security screws - different from a standard torx. When I went to remove the cover, I found the torx-security screws and had to order again from amazon, delaying repair two more days. Once cover's off, repair is easy. As others suggested, use smart phone to take photo of wires' original connections before disassembly. Pull connectors from capacitor and discharge (for safety). Swapped magnitron and diode, and microwave was back in business. Wait til all four screws are threaded on the magnitron before snugging any down. The four screws are through a flange that runs the magnitron's perimeter. Tightening the screws deflects the flange a bit, which can make threading and seating other screws difficult, if done one at a time. Also replaced bulb while cover was off, which had gone out a couple months previously (14 year life span, pretty darn good). Can see why owners are irritated with bulb replacement. Cheap part and easy to replace (don't have to do anything with high voltage components) with just one mounting screw and connector, but have to have torx-security driver to remove cover. Close up. And get thanks from wife.

I took the advice of another buyer and replaced the magnetron, capacitor, and diode from my microwave (make sure you discharge the capacitor). It was not a problem at all to do, I did find an excellent video on YouTube on how to test all of these components and almost anything else in a microwave. It’s called Microwave Oven Troubleshooting in Minutes- Step by Step by electronicsNmore. It was the best thing I watched. Turns out my magnetron was the only thing that was bad and it’s the most expensive part, so replacing the other too wasn’t a big deal. My microwave really heats well now. I guess it had been getting bad for a while. I might get add, my microwave was a $1500 GE MONOGRAM microwave/convection oven so spending a couple hundred for parts was a no-brainer, but had it been a cheaper $300-400 model, I would’ve just bought another one. Matching the appliances in my wife’s kitchen was also key. I might also say, that although I’m handy and do have some electronics experience, I built my own tube guitar amps years ago, I am a counselor by trade, and doing this project taught me how a microwave works. It was fun to learn, and easy to do. Watch the YouTube video before you remove one screw. You will learn a lot, and also see a professional be extremely careful while discharging the capacitor. 1000 volts is nothing to play around with, but the capacitor does have a discharge resistor built-in and mine was discharged when I tested it, and although the video shows you how to build a discharge rig using a ceramic resistor, which is the safest way to go, I don’t personally think it’s necessary. He shows other ways to discharge too. This is the most important thing to do in this repair.

Instead of wasting time troubleshooting, I purchased the 3 components suggested that could be the cause for the issue (magnetron, diode and capacitor). Replaced all 3 components and now I once again I have heat. Job was really easy except for trying to install the screws around the magnetron - kept getting sucked up by the magnet. Great website and parts arrived as quickly as advertised.

This GE Microwave oven is no longer being manufactured and was installed along with a $300 trim kit, so I really didn't want to change out the unit since the trim kit is proprietary. Disassembled microware, looked at the schematic attached to the inside of the unit, made sure capacitor was discharged. Checked the flame sensor and diode- they tested bad when tested with volt/ohm meter. Ordered parts- they came two days later. Replaced flame sensor and diode. Panel powered up. Still no power to magnetron. Had to remove oxidation on low voltage side of transformer terminals where wires attached. Reattached the wires to the transformer Then magnetron started humming, and heated water. Reassembled unit and re-enstalled.

This was much easier than I expected. First and foremost discharge the capacitor, google has the instructions. The diagnosis was also easy, really just 3 parts, the Magnetron, the Capacitor, and the Diode. With a simple multimeter measuring the resistance I was able to determine the Magnetron had shorted out and the diode was bad. I replaced all three components which fixed my issue.