Ge WB27T10500 Oven Electronic Control Board OEM Part

I first called a GE service tech in to diagnose the problem. He said very quickly that the oven circuit board had a fault in it. He said it would cost $ 563. to replace. I asked him if he thought I was a fool or an idiot? Of course he didn't get the job. Before the Tech came I looked up this problem on Appliance Parts Pros.Com and found the same problem. The fix was a new oven circuit board at $163. including S&H. I ordered,after the tech left, the part and received it in 2 days. When my wife and I installed it, it wouldn't work. I call Appliance Parts Pros and they sent me a replacement part in 3 days. It's very important to replace each wire in the same place. As you take one wire off ( we used a needle nosed pliers) replace that wire in the same location on the new board. You will need two people to do this job. When that is complete be sure to screw(4) the board tight. If the board is not tight it will not work. Tools you will need a star bit screwdriver to remove the front panel and a phillips screwdriver to attach the board to the front panel.

Went online with model number to research. Appliance Parts Pro came up, I have used them in past. After checking online, didn't have enough details, so called. Spoke with technician Andrew Shelton, described problem and troubleshooting I had performed; continuity, resistance checks, sequencing, etc. This was a strange, but not unheard of problem! After a brief hold, he came back with questions and recommended part. This interaction took 20-30 minutes, not sure exactly. What was great was no rush, no hassle, direct questions and answers, stayed on the phone while I did some additional diagnostics, . Ordered part on Friday, arrived Tuesday. Installed on Wednesday, Had problems with GE's ribbon connector! My wife treated me to some great cookies that afternoon, mmmmmmm! Thanks Andy.

Replaced board by removing unit from wall; however I realized I didn't have to remove the unit to replace the board. I did inspect the unit to make sure that it was only the board that was causing the oven not to operate. A little more work but well worth it. When you replace the board make certain the connection to the lighted panel were you see the clock and temp reading is well seated or else nothing will work.

I noted that two other people had the same problem and eventually they determined it was the Oven Control Unit, located behind the control panel. I decided, with the 365 day return policy, that it was worth the risk (of just losing the postage cost) to immediately try out a new Oven Control Unit to see if it fixed the problem. It did. This saved me from having to pull out the unit from the wall and test various components. The replacement of the Oven Control Unit was fairly simple. After turning of the power, of course, I double-checked the part number and compared the layout of the unit to verify that the replacement part was the correct one. Then, I made a note of where the various differently colored wires attached to the unit before I started. For each wire attachment, I had to use pliers to remove it (except for the multi-pin and ribbon connections). The ribbon connection required a slight jiggle to pull it out completely - it got stuck after pulling it out about 1/4-1/2 inch - by moving the ribbon slightly away from the edge of the control unit, it freed it. The whole replacement process took about 1 hour.

Replaced the hi-limit switch and oven control.