Lg 6931EL3003D Hi-Limit Thermal Fuse OEM Part

Checked and cleaned vent which was in need of cleaning, but not too bad (I do not consider this a primary causal detail, but can be a problem, so clean yours). Replaced Hi-Limit Thermostat (safety thermostat) after confirming the circuit was open with ohm meter. While I was in there, I completely cleaned the heater and ducting and internal workings of the dryer. Confirmed the heater coils were good via 20ohm, 20ohm, 40ohm readings (LG service manual has wrong readings). Two weeks later, same failure happened again. So it was either a bad replacement part or something else causing the Hi-Limit (safety) thermostat to blow. If the other thermostat on the heater is not properly regulating temperature, I figured this could cause an overheat condition, so to hopefully get this to go away without turning it into a science project, I replaced thermostat on heater, thermostat on blower duct, safety thermostat on heater, and just because, thermistor assy (on blower duct). Dryer is working well for now and if I can get past a month of good operation without recurrence, I will figure this problem solved. I found that nomenclatures on these parts vary, so check the function you are trying to replace and get the correct part. Also, on LG documentation out there, the thermostat on heater sometimes has three connectors, sometimes two. Check your wiring diagram or physically look at your part to be sure to get the right replacement. I have read that you can replace the heater thermostats by removing the exhaust duct, but to me that would require some wrist gymnastics and I am sure I would drop screws and have difficulty getting the wires disconnected. Going through the complete disassembly which includes removing the drum takes about 20 minutes (10 minutes the second time around in my case). Also, going through all that makes it possible to vacuum out the inside of the dryer and all the ducting. Notes on dryer disassembly: Unplug it first and just remove three screws on the back where the top is connected and slide the top back and up. Continue on by removing control panel and bracket, door, drum roller panel, duct, drum.... Note the routing of the belt around the tension pulley and motor drive before you take it off. Watch a video on disassembly. I hope this helps.

This repair saved our lives! Error code of "nP" showed on a less than 2 year old dryer but a certified electrician checked and it isn't a house power issue regardless of what customer service guy from India says. Smart Diagnostic app showed no errors. No heat but everything else works fine. Thanks to the online videos, I figured it had to be either a thermometer, Thermistor or electronic board issue. I ordered the top 4 most-likely culprits for less than $50. I was quoted $100 just to get a repair man to show up at the house so we saved $50 right there. Thanks to online videos, taking apart the dryer was easy. If there were no other issues the repairs would have taken 30 minutes from start to finish BUT once the drum was removed we discovered that the LG factory did not attach the exhaust pipe to the blower fan (inside the unit) and lint has been flying into the interior of the dryer from day 1, including the heating element, motor, electronics, etc. No smell of burning was ever noticed but lots of very browned lint was in the heater element so it would be just a matter of time before a fire. At least a 1/4 inch of lint over the entire interior of the dryer. Cleaning the surfaces of lint took over an hour. Had to empty the Dyson canister 4x. Taped the pipe joint so this will never happen again. Talk about a factory defect that can kill your family! Never buying LG again even though we fixed the dryer and it works fine for just $50. But the knowledge that they would sell a dryer not assembled correctly in the factory scares the hell out of me. Your website saved us money which we really appreciate. Thank you!

After I cleaned out the typical 1.5 pounds of lint from the vent, ( I do it every 2 months), I went searching for a solution. I found 6 possible causes on this site and purchased everything except a new burner; I wasn't going to go that far. Let the fun begin. Since my vacuum was still nearby, I thought I was ready for anything. Wrong. After I watched all the videos again for reassurance, I went in with screwdriver in hand and laptop nearby. I removed the top and looked inside. Don't be fooled, the lint basket doesn't get it all. After I got everything removed to get to the real workings of the dryer, I spent 20 minutes sucking up anything that moved, and somethings that didn't. I replaced all the thermostats and both moisture sensor bars. They all went smoothly except for the high temp thermostat. This part and the old parts didn't have any real identifying marking on them that let me know which terminal was up. So, I went to the laptop. For those who don't know, there is a live chat section on this website. I asked the technician, Joy if it mattered which terminal went up. She didn't think so, reaffirming my hunch so I quickly got it replaced. The only real problem I had was getting the drive belt routed correctly back on the idler and the motor pulley. The video was confusing for me cause the camera was showing the operation from the back of the dryer so everything was backward for me. Stupid repairman I guess, I needed a beer badly but I wasn't going to let it defeat me. Well got it back together, plugged it in and NOTHING. Left it till morning, it was 11:00 pm and the wife wanted to sleep. I was fixing it in the bedroom where there was more room to spread out. This morning I opened up the top again and checked the control panel. One of the wires had come off the terminal, wasn't locked in from the late night before. Reset it, reassembled, plugged it in, and now its drying clothes so fast it's a whole new machine. The videos are great and the assistance is superb. I will be looking here for all my repair jobs in the future. One suggestion, make a video using a "used" machine so we can have an idea what may be waiting for us. I could have used reinforcements.

I disassembled/reassembled the dryer according to the ApplianceParts Youtube video. With my limited electrical knowledge (just enough to be dangerous) I initially figured it was a problem with the heating unit, sensor(s), or the control board. After diagnosing the problem (bad thermistor), I had to order the parts and was able to repair and reassemble the dryer several days later. After removing the drum, I cleaned all the dust etc. out of the inside (it gets dirty in there!) and inspected, cleaned and tested the heating element. It tested around two ohms (red/yellow and red/blue). I tested both thermostat units screwed into the heater element housing and they both tested at low ohms. Because It was relatively cheap, I opted to replace both so I didn't have to apply heat and see if they opened. Plus, after a good 5 years of operation it can't hurt! I checked the thermistor in the blower assembly and replaced it; it was bad (tested continuity). I tested the thermostat in the blower assembly and it tested at about 2 ohms. I would have replaced it, but it was not available on the ApplianceParts website. I reassembled the unit and replaced the belt on the drum (the old one was still good, but felt somewhat dry/not as flexible as new). The dryer now functions as it did before. As a side note, after resuming use of the dryer, I became concerned because after pressing the start button, the drum starts to turn, the dry light is flashing, the cooling light stays on and the timed dry light stays on. After looking at various forums, this appears to be normal operation. The project took approximately 4 hours for me because I thoroughly clean everything and try to inspect all of the parts and look for damaged components and wiring before I re-install. An experienced technician familiar with this model (and possessing needed spare parts) could have done it in under 30 minutes. All you need for this project is a Phillips head screwdriver, an ohmmeter and an external light source (headlamp, etc). A drill with a Phillips attachment will make disassembly much easier and a can of compressed air will help with cleaning the dust and crud out of the motor and blower assemblies. Taking pictures with the phone on your camera during disassembly of parts/wiring will make reassembly much easier as well. Overall, a fairly easy job.

I have the optional steam feature on my dryer. There were some differences from the video. It was the high-limit thermostat. I found the appliance parts pros website and found their list of parts that were most likely to be the problem. Reviewed a repair video and it seemed to be very clear, well produced. One of the stories I read on the site mentioned ordering the 4 most likely parts for around $50. That made sense to me so I did that. Later, I found the LG service manual online - the dryer actually has a pretty comprehensive set of diagnostic tests that you can run from the control panel; I probably could have identified the specific part that failed and ordered just that. But I don’t regret ordering all 4 parts - the parts are pretty cheap and it’s a lot of disassembly to get to them - might as well replace them all while you’re in there. The service manual also described how to test each part with a multimeter. It was helpful to know that one of the parts, the hi-limit thermostat really was bad. Nice to know you are going on more than hope when you put it back together. I followed the video on my phone, very helpful. Some of the screws on my machine were very tight. I’ve learned from experience to brace the work piece against something solid, put the palm of my hand on the end of the screw driver, put my weight into it and turn very, very slowly until you hear/feel the screw turn. It would have been really easy to strip some of the screw heads otherwise - not the end of the world but a pain that might cost you a trip to the hardware store for another tool to remove the stripped screw. As I removed the screws, I tore up strips of paper, wrote down the name of the part I was removing, and taped the screws to it. They aren’t all the same and this made reassembly a lot easier. The steam dryer has some differences from the model in the video. The position/number of connectors on the back of the control panel is different but you still disconnect all of them. I took pictures of cables before disconnecting in case something wasn’t clear during reassembly. The way the wiring harness is clipped to the brace is different - a single zip-tie with a locking nub on it. squeeze the nub on the back of the brace and gently pull harness away from brace. Brace looks different and screws were a little different. There is a rack of components front-to-back on the left side (facing front of dryer) right behind the drawer with the water container. You can leave the internal parts alone but you need to remove the drawer. There is a big locking tab on the bottom in the back - just reach in to drawer and push down to pull drawer out. When you do, you’ll see two screws in the front of the control panel. These aren’t mentioned in the video and you have to remove them to remove them to remove the control panel. Requires slightly more care lifting the drum out because you have to guide it out under the steam equipment. Beyond those minor differences, I did what the video said and everything went smoothly. I suggest using post it note or similar to mark the front of the drum when you take it out to make sure it goes back in the same way. I took the dryer apart before the parts came and moved things around more than once before I put it back together. I think it matters which way it goes - not sure - but better safe than sorry. You can’t really see what’s going on with motor and idler pulley with the drum in place - I put it back on by feel. Then I stuck my phone in there and took some pictures to verify I had it on right. When I put it back together and plugged it back in, everything looked good - powered up, etc... until I hit the start button. The time flashed and the dryer didn’t start. The service manual came in handy again. It explains how to enter the dryers diagnostic mode. As soon as I did that, I got an error code indicating that the door was open, it wasn’t. Took the top back off and found that I’d missed one of the plugs connecting to the control panel. Plugged that in, put everything back together and we have our dryer back working again. Pretty easy to do, took more time just because It was new to me and I was being careful. I took a lot lint out of the vent. I think that’s why the hi-limit switch died. Gotta clean the vent more often.