Lg 4036ER4001B Gasket OEM Part

Repair went fairly smoothly by following the EXCELLENT how-to video provided. I had only a few issues and suggestions. 1. Because many of the screws and fasteners are of multiple sizes, I would recommend laying them out in a muffin tray or on a paper with labels for where they go back. 2. After removing the weights and prepping to remove the shock absorbers, after the front ones were removed, the tub tilted so far the rear shock absorber separated. The friction pads fell out. It was easy to reassemble but at first I thought the item had broken. I removed one of the good ones to see how it had been assembled. 3. A nut driver (9/32) works better for the screws with hex heads, especially on the hose removals where visibility may be poor and access a bit tight. 4. Note that the rotor assembly has what appears to be a ceramic center. Take care to not damage. Also when replacing, if it is difficult to install (stator is magnetized), once you get it started, you can snug it up by carefully tightening the bolt. Then remove the bolt and properly install with the blue thread sealer. 5. The most difficult job was probably the reinstallation of the larger spring on the front gasket. My total time to do the job was a bit under 5 hours but that included stopping often to clean parts or review the video (on my iPad - very handy). Disassembly, parts cleaning and bearing removal was approx 3 hours. The reassembly went a bit faster. If all your parts come with detailed instructions such as for this bearing replacement, I would definitely use appliancepartspros.com for future needs. Great Job.

Looked online at several websites to see if I could figure out the problem Came across AppliancePartsPros video on replacing bearings. Watched it a couple of times and determined (well, guessed) it was the bearings and/or spider. Followed the video (great job by the way) and disassembled the washer. The spider was cracked on one arm so ordered a new one from this site. I also ordered two new bearings and the bearing seal b/c learned from the web and local appliance store that they go bad in 7+ yrs. I also ordered the seal b/t the two halves of the outer drum. Thought "what the heck", it's worth it to buy approx $120 in parts to try to fix vs buying a new washer ($900) which wouldn't match size or looks of our dryer. Installed the new parts and re-assembled. It works just like new....go figure!! The video was excellent and the sound and camera were perfect. The guy is mellow so that's good (says the Mrs. who checked in from time to time). The only things I would change is to specifically call out was the difference b/t red and blue lock tight. I bought red, but then listened to the video again and realized there's a difference so bought blue. When re-installing the bearings, make sure you have a longer punch with an end that is narrow, but not pointed and only tap the outer ring. It should be at least 8" long. The other thing about this whole repair is that the grey rubber seal b/t the washer and the door (a) does not go on as easy as the video so give it time, and (b) the inside wire connector takes some serious stretching to hook the loop to the hook. OK, what else? Well, I can say that I'm semi-mechanically inclined. The first 15 minutes of the video covered disassembly. It took me less than 3 hours. The second 15 minutes of the video took 15 minutes. It took me 2+ hours. Now keep in mind, I've only replaced the circuit board on this washer (w/o video), but for this job I set up and watched the video on the laptop, hit pause, and did each step. Allow time for pre and post- work, e.g. moving the dryer, picking up the floor, shutting off/turning on washer/gas/ whatever else is in your laundry room. Have some extra lighting available (flashlight/trouble light/etc if your area is darker). Also good idea to have some of your favorite music plus a beverage of choice for a reward. Good news is that you can do this!

I noticed the bearings getting noisy on my LG washer. I am an Engineer in the Industrial Laundry Industry so figuring out what was going wrong wasn't my biggest challenge. I began searching for parts and how to videos on the web and I found AppliancePartsPro.com. I couldn't be more impressed. The video was 95% accurate. I did have one extra screw in my control panel which the video did not know about and some of my parts were a little different but no matter, the instructional video was awesome. I watched it completely before starting and then used it step by step. I am a big believer that haste makes waste. I was not in a race with the clock to get this done. I set aside a Saturday, started in the morning and got done when I got done. Everything was as easy as the video showed until I had to remove the shaft from the bearings. Mine didn't fall out after a couple of hits as in the video. It took me over two hours to free the shaft from the bearings. I needed very good penetrating oil to break the rust and run down the shaft to get into the second bearing as well. My machine was not in bad condition and there wasn't much rust yet I needed a 2 pound hammer and destroyed several pieces of 1' oak board beating on the shaft. Eventually it came out. I replaced the bearings, shaft seal, outer tub seal and the spider/shaft. I didn't need to replace the spider/shaft but I had ordered one based on the high probability I would need to. Since I had it, I replaced it. I reassembled the machine and it works like new. One thing the video did not address is why the bears failed. I also saw some questions about it so I will tell you what I have learned from my 20 years of washer maintenance. Two things make bearings fail prematurely. The most common cause of failure is water damage. When the shaft seal begins to leak, the first thing to get wet is the inner bearing next to it. The water will make its way into the bearing and damage it. First the bearing will become noisy and eventually it will fail. This can be occurring without having puddles of water on the floor. This root cause is confirmed when you disassemble the machine and inspect the shaft seal. The seal will be in poor condition and the bearing will be rusted. The second reason a bearing fails is because the shocks are worn out. I require the suspension to be replaced as part of bearing jobs on our industrial washers. On my residential washer, I did not replace the shocks because I found the shaft seal was in very bad condition and it was the obvious problem. I checked my shocks and they seemed fine. Perhaps this is always the case with these washers, I don't know, I don't have any history other than what I have read on this site. I've seen some questions about why the bearings fail and if there are better bearings which won't fail. The problem isn't the bearings. The problem is the shaft seal. If you want to keep your bearings from failing, then replace your shaft seal every year or two and replace your shocks every 3 or 4 years. Unfortunately, you still have to take the whole machine apart to replace the shaft seal. This would be the smart thing to do but "if it ain't broke don't fix it" mentality will prevent most of us from doing so.

Our LG “Tromm” washer has been getting louder and louder on the spin cycle and having experience with pumps and motors that meant the bearings were shot and needed to be replaced. I was reading on-line and several people said they got quotes of about $700 for parts and labor and “Might as well buy a new one”. I figured that I could take it apart and find the bearings so I went to Appliance Parts Pros to order the parts and they have a complete step by step video from beginning to end. I ordered the parts(2 bearings, a seal and an outer tub gasket for about $75) and watched the video a couple of times while waiting for them to arrive a couple of days later. Make yourself a list of all the tools you will need and get them before starting. YOU WILL NEED; vice grips, a 10 & 17mm socket, a 13mm long socket and a 12mm wrench along with pliers, screwdrivers, hammer, cold chisel/punch, penetrating oil, brass wire brush, wood blocks(I used four 2' pieces of 4"x4" and two 2' pieces of 2"x4" so I could get the outer tub high enough to get the inner tub to drop out) and several towels. Also, the tubs will be nasty from years of soap scum buildup so I took mine outside and cleaned them up with a pressure washer but a water hose and nylon brush would work well too. I have good mechanical skills and it took me 6 hours from disconnecting and getting the machine out of the laundry room to plugging it back in and starting the first wash with all the dirty towels. That did include 2 trips to the garage to get tools and cut wood blocks, 30 minutes getting the pressure washer out and cleaning the inner and outer tub and a few stops for a drink or snack (my wife is awesome) and video reviews. Go slow and give yourself plenty of time. The door gasket spring hoops will fight you going back on so be patient. There are some sharp metal edges so wear gloves or be willing to accept a few small finger nicks and cuts. Another good tip; to ease the bearings install, I put them in the freezer for about an hour so they shrink just a little bit. When driving the bearing in be careful not to hit the center plastic part of the bearing assembly, ONLY THE OUTER EDGE. Driving the bearings in is slow-going, but they eventually slid into place perfectly. Overall, it was not that hard, just a lot of little careful steps. Calm & patience wins this battle. If you get frustrated at one of the steps, take a break, watch that part of the video again and relax, you are doing a $625 repair job yourself.

Our 10-year-old LG WM2487HWMA front load washer had gradually developed multiple problems. It sounded like a jet engine during high speed spin, both the drain pump and circulation pumps were noisy, it would not drain properly (water was coming in during spin cycle), no water was spraying out at the top of the door into the drum like it is supposed to when the circulation pump was running. It's amazing we had still been able to wash clothes at all! With the help of the excellent AppliancePartsPros.com videos for almost all of the operations, I set out to tackle all of these issues, performing nearly a complete overhaul of the machine. The LG washer test mode (google it) was helpful for diagnosing some of the problems. Here is what I did, along with a few observations/tips: - Moved washer into our kitchen, which is adjacent to our cramped laundry room, for repairs (on sliders, kept it on the pedestal). The extra space was essential to remove the tub, etc. - Replaced tub bearings, bearing seal, and seal between the tub halves. This was the most difficult part of the repair (not easy, but doable). Don't wonder if you really need to use PB/penetrating oil on the bearings to get them out - you do!! Using a generous amount at the bearing perimeter, and allowing it to soak overnight, was key, and it still took quite a bit of time to knock them out. A 5/8" x 6" long bolt with stacked washers and nuts from a big box store helped to remove the old bearings and install the new bearings. - Replaced both the drain pump and the recirculation pump. These were both quite straightforward to remove and replace. - With everything apart, removed the three large rubber hoses (F310, F315, K520) and cleaned out the gook and hard water deposits in them. This took quite some time. A cable-operated hose clamp pliers (available from auto parts stores) was very helpful to replace some of the harder-to-reach clamps, such as the vent hose clamp. - Removed and cleaned out the short gasket drain hose (K570) and the hose that goes between the recirculation pump and the top of the door gasket, using a wire and then faucet water pressure. These were both completely clogged, resulting in no gasket drainage and no water spraying into the drum from the drum light area. - Replaced the tub suspension springs and dampers for good measure, since the tub was out. - Suggest also replacing the washer door gasket at this time, if you haven't already (I had). - There was some play in the plastic splines of the tub motor rotor assembly (K360), which could be felt when rotating it back and forth. I carefully wrapped one layer of 3/4" adhesive tape around the splines on the shaft, pressing it into the splines, before reinstalling the rotor assembly. This filled the gap enough to remove the play (hopefully it will last a while - we shall see!). - Replaced the cold and hot water supply solenoid valves (faulty valve was resulting in water supply being on during spin cycle). These were pretty easy to replace. - Reinstalled machine with new water supply connection hoses (they were ten years old as well). Overall the repairs took 12-13 hours (I tend to work deliberately and not particularly fast) over the course of about two weeks. Total parts bill was under $400, and parts arrived in just 2-3 days from AppliancePartsPros.com with regular delivery. All in all it was a significant investment, but now just about all of the moving parts in the machine have been replaced, and everything about it works like new! And it was satisfying and fun to learn about how it all works and goes together. THANK YOU APP for the great parts service!!!