Lg 6931EL3001F Hi-Limit Thermostat Assembly OEM Part

Checked and cleaned vent which was in need of cleaning, but not too bad (I do not consider this a primary causal detail, but can be a problem, so clean yours). Replaced Hi-Limit Thermostat (safety thermostat) after confirming the circuit was open with ohm meter. While I was in there, I completely cleaned the heater and ducting and internal workings of the dryer. Confirmed the heater coils were good via 20ohm, 20ohm, 40ohm readings (LG service manual has wrong readings). Two weeks later, same failure happened again. So it was either a bad replacement part or something else causing the Hi-Limit (safety) thermostat to blow. If the other thermostat on the heater is not properly regulating temperature, I figured this could cause an overheat condition, so to hopefully get this to go away without turning it into a science project, I replaced thermostat on heater, thermostat on blower duct, safety thermostat on heater, and just because, thermistor assy (on blower duct). Dryer is working well for now and if I can get past a month of good operation without recurrence, I will figure this problem solved. I found that nomenclatures on these parts vary, so check the function you are trying to replace and get the correct part. Also, on LG documentation out there, the thermostat on heater sometimes has three connectors, sometimes two. Check your wiring diagram or physically look at your part to be sure to get the right replacement. I have read that you can replace the heater thermostats by removing the exhaust duct, but to me that would require some wrist gymnastics and I am sure I would drop screws and have difficulty getting the wires disconnected. Going through the complete disassembly which includes removing the drum takes about 20 minutes (10 minutes the second time around in my case). Also, going through all that makes it possible to vacuum out the inside of the dryer and all the ducting. Notes on dryer disassembly: Unplug it first and just remove three screws on the back where the top is connected and slide the top back and up. Continue on by removing control panel and bracket, door, drum roller panel, duct, drum.... Note the routing of the belt around the tension pulley and motor drive before you take it off. Watch a video on disassembly. I hope this helps.

This repair saved our lives! Error code of "nP" showed on a less than 2 year old dryer but a certified electrician checked and it isn't a house power issue regardless of what customer service guy from India says. Smart Diagnostic app showed no errors. No heat but everything else works fine. Thanks to the online videos, I figured it had to be either a thermometer, Thermistor or electronic board issue. I ordered the top 4 most-likely culprits for less than $50. I was quoted $100 just to get a repair man to show up at the house so we saved $50 right there. Thanks to online videos, taking apart the dryer was easy. If there were no other issues the repairs would have taken 30 minutes from start to finish BUT once the drum was removed we discovered that the LG factory did not attach the exhaust pipe to the blower fan (inside the unit) and lint has been flying into the interior of the dryer from day 1, including the heating element, motor, electronics, etc. No smell of burning was ever noticed but lots of very browned lint was in the heater element so it would be just a matter of time before a fire. At least a 1/4 inch of lint over the entire interior of the dryer. Cleaning the surfaces of lint took over an hour. Had to empty the Dyson canister 4x. Taped the pipe joint so this will never happen again. Talk about a factory defect that can kill your family! Never buying LG again even though we fixed the dryer and it works fine for just $50. But the knowledge that they would sell a dryer not assembled correctly in the factory scares the hell out of me. Your website saved us money which we really appreciate. Thank you!

Model: DLE5955G This was actually the second repair. The first attempt to repair, I replaced only the thermal fuse. I had tested it with a multimeter and it was bad. Dryer stopped heating after 2 loads. After reading a submitted story here regarding replacing all the thermostats to keep it from becoming a science project, I followed the same advice. I bought all the thermostats in the dryer. Several loads later, still drying away!

UNPLUGGED THE DRYER!!!! REMOVED THE VENT AIR TUBE. CHECKED CONTINUITY OF THE CYCLING THERMOSTAT AND HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT BY ACCESSING THEM THRU THE HOLE LEFT OPEN WHEN I REMOVED THE VENT TUBE. BOTH WERE OPEN WHICH MEANS THEY ARE BAD. I ALSO CHECKED THE OHM READINGS OF THE HEATER. THE READINGS WERE CORRECT SO I KNEW THE HEATER WAS STILL GOOD. YOU GET THE SAME READING FROM TERMINALS #1-#2 AND #2-#3. #1-#3 IS DOUBLE THE PREVIOUS READINGS. THE SERVICE MANUAL GIVES YOU INCORRECT OHM READINGS TO CHECK FOR. PULLED OFF THE WIRE TERMINALS AND REMOVED THE THERMOSTATS. PUT THE NEW ONES ON AND REATTACHED THE WIRE TERMINALS AS THEY WERE ATTACHED BEFORE. REATTACHED THE VENT TUBE AND DUCT. PLUGGED THE DRYER BACK IN AND RAN A SELF TEST. ALL GOOD!!!!!

Ordered the parts that your site said was the most likely cause of “no heat” since everything else with my dryer worked just fine. Asked a friend to help me disassemble the dryer according to your videos because I knew I wouldn’t be able to lift the drum out and put it back in by myself. We followed your directions and even though neither one of us had ever worked on an LG dryer, we did it! So as a 73 yrs old female, aside from the lifting in and out of the drum, I changed out the 4 parts I ordered! Videos were on point, and the dryer works as well as it did 3yrs ago when I bought it! Given an estimate of $450 to repair it, I opted to give it a try myself…the parts were approximately $60 and I’m rather proud of the fact that I know the job was done correctly!