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Customer Questions and Answers for Temperature Sensor With Hi Limit Thermistor by Bosch

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Bosch
Part Number: OEM8407104
Manufacturer Part Number: 00165281

NTC (negative temperature coefficient). Resistance or capacitance decreases when temperature increases.

The Temperature Sensor with Hi Limit Thermistor is an OEM part for Bosch dishwashers. This sensor monitors internal temperatures, providing feedback to the control module during each cycle.

Causes of failure can be related to mineral buildup over time interfering with sensing or physical damage to wiring or connectors.

Symptoms of a bad temperature sensor include:

  • Abnormal or inconsistent wash temperatures
  • Error codes related to temperature issues
  • Reduced cleaning performance from improper heating

This genuine OEM Bosch part is also compatible with Thermador, Gaggenau and select Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Bosch Temperature Sensor With Hi Limit Thermistor (Part Number: OEM8407104)

1 Answer

Ian, Without a model number, a little difficult to be able to be exact and correct. But, on a Bosch dishwasher, yes we would expect the on/off switch to have a closed circuit when pressed, or at least a momentary contact. We'll need at least a model number to check and verify the on/off switch circuits and the proper part number of the switch. Thanks,

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Ran for Model Number NEFF 15 years old, don't know more than that...

Hi, I have a 15 years old NEFF dishwasher. I opened it yesterday because it was leaking from the heating unit. I found out that the sealing around the rotatable plate was damaged, and the connection to the main cogwheel shaft was damaged also. I wanted to know what is this mechanism responsible for, and if I can bypass it? Finally, I took out the rotatable plate from the heating element ,and sealed the cogwheel shaft, so when the motor moves, it actually do nothing. Can it still function properly ? Thank you and best regards, Ran

Nick for Model Number SHX46AO2UC/21

Bosch SHX46AO2UC/21 Dishwasher. Fills fine. During a cycle it started to randomly eject and fill. I did not notice if the circulation pump was circulating right at that moment. I just shut er down for the night. Next day water was left. Started new reg wash expecting to hear 3 or main pre drains but not. Got under the hood and pulled the red drain rod and ejected all the water manually. Started new cycle thereafter. Filled and again it started it's random fill and ejects each for a couple of seconds. This went on for a couple mins and stopped. It never entered into the circulation mode. Wasup with this thing? Thinking the test would give me a clue, I'm still lost. The scrub and eco button test resulted in reg wash lit solid with the eco flashing? Any ideas? Thanks in advance Nick

1 Answer

Nick, You will want to look for a leak which could be tripping the flood switch on the unit.

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1 Answer

Hello Jacob, At 77°F you should read about 48K ohms.so your reading is out of range. I would replace it since it is a negative temperature co-efficient. This basically means that as the temperature decreases, the resistance increases.

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Scott for Model Number SHX68R55UC/67

I have the Bosch Dishwasher model named. It runs completely fine with the major exception that the water appears to never get hot. I have looked at online videos indicating that a relay goes bad on the control board but my model of Bosch dishwasher does not appear to have any relays on the control board and the control board looks pristine. Should I consider thermistor replacement or the water heater? Are there any other parts that could be defective? Like I said earlier the only issue is that the water never get hot, otherwise the operation is normal. Thank you.

1 Answer

Scott, There is a control board that is located on the right side of the unit down at the bottom that has to be accessed by removing the unit from installation. This control board is what has the relay on it but what you would first want to establish is whether the control board is sending power to the heater assembly. This can be done by running the unit through and testing the control board to make sure that it is sending power. If it is then the issue would most likely either be the thermistor having failed or the heater being defective. You can test the heater resistance and it should be approximately 11 ohms at room temperature. When looking at the NTC thermistor, it has a high limit and NTC in it. When looking a the terminals on the part, the 2 left terminals would be the high limit which can be checked to make sure that it is closed at room temp. For the NTC which are the 2 right terminals you will want to check the resistance Here are some temps that the resistance should read for the NTC, at 72 degrees should be 55K ohms, at 77 degrees would be about 48K ohms, at 100 degrees would be about 27K ohms, at 122 degrees would be about 17K ohms and at 145 degrees would be about 10K ohms.

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1 Answer

Hello Boston, The thermistor is a very good possibility. Verify the harness integrity and all connections and the voltage to the heater from the control. Don't forget that proper leveling and unit mounting under the countertop is very important for normal operation.

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1 Answer

Rich, If there is power getting to the control board but is not getting anywhere else in the unit then you will want to check the door latch. If the door latch is ok then the issue will be the control module.

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Cochese for Model Number SHX46A05UC/40

Hi - I noticed my DW was leaking a bit from the base so I removed some panels, ran a cycle and found the leak at the base of the thermistor. Water slowly wells up around the metal base where it meets the plastic housing, especially near the clamps (where there are notches in the housing, which seems ill-advised, but anyway). I removed the thermistor and inspected the housing and all other areas of the heating element - no cracks or other issues. The o-ring seal did look a little scuffed on one side, so I turned it around and put the "good" side water-side down, re-ran a cycle and same result. I have ordered the factory seal and will try again soon with that new part. But I'm wondering if I'm missing something. Has anyone seen this problem before? Could it be as simple as a bad seal, even if to my (admittedly untrained) eyes the current seal doesn't look all that bad? Thank you!

1 Answer

Cochese, with the unit leaking at the thermistor the issue would be caused by the seal. If the seal is bad then it will cause the issue.

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Fred for Model Number Whirlpool GU2548XTPQ6

I have an issue with my whirlpool dishwasher. The dishwasher will not complete a cycle. It will stop and the clean light will flash 7 times. I have checked the heating element(10 ohms), and the over temp switch(closed). The component I have a question about is the Thermistor. With a meter connected to it, I hold it over my stove top element and watch it as it is heating up. It starts at about 50 ohms then starts to drop as it gets hotter. It will go open for a nano second at around 40 ohms, then continue to drop. It will do the same on the way back up when it is cooling in the freezer, open at around 40 ohms. I don't believe this is normal, but Im not sure if this is something built in to this particular sensor. Any advise?

1 Answer

Fred, The resistance of this thermistor will drop as it get warmer. At room temperature there should be a resistance reading of 48K to 52K ohms at 77 degrees. At 140 degrees the resistance would be between 12k and 13K ohms of resistance. It sounds like the thermistor is doing what it should be. The slight delay may have been caused by rapid heating and time to adjust. You will also want to check the wiring and if the wiring checks ok and if it does then the issue would be the control board.

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Jean-Pierre for Model Number Bosh Dishwasher SHU5316UC/14 serial 76X6

The unit runs, heat but stop as soon it gets hot, after about 30 minutes, then it cools down until a restart for another stopping few minutes later. Main switch... check Board connectors... check Could have been the motor thermal protection... Change the motor... done, it doesn't change the problem. Could have been the Thermistor Hi-limit Change the 85oC Thermistor... done it doesn't change the problem. What could it be then ? Change the dishwasher... not done yet. Any suggesting somebody?

1 Answer

Jean-pierre, You will want to look at the power supply connection of the dishwasher to make sure that the wire nuts and connections are good. It sounds like there may be a loose connection and when the unit runs it heats up and causes the unit to shut down.

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