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Customer Questions and Answers for Control Box Assembly by Frigidaire

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Frigidaire
Part Number: OEM15529035
Manufacturer Part Number: 5304482075

This refrigerator control housing and air damper control kit includes both the freezer and refrigerator cold controls, the damper, wire harness, defrost control and instructions.

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Questions & Answers

For Frigidaire Control Box Assembly (Part Number: OEM15529035)

1 Answer

Hi Greg. You need to review the freezer temperature routing around the damper - to- center divider area. It is imperative that the routing is just as the old one as it is formed gently around the damper gasket /Styrofoam area. It needs to be on the outside area of the damper to sense the incoming freezer air temperature.Then as it is installed, you make sure the back bolt is snug properly to insure they are against the center divider wall so the fresh food air will not migrate with the freezer air and stop damper operations while freezing the damper mechanism. Thank You.

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1 Answer

Hello Butch. Make sure the control box 5304482075 is installed properly, with the ends of the thermostats placed in the proper locations. Also, make sure there is nothing blocking the air return and the wires on the box are connected properly. Hope this helps.

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Mcjunk for Model Number FRS26HF7BW0

Not a question, but a solution for anyone who might have the same problem I had after installing the new control box kit. My initial problem was with the damper periodically "sticking" open and freezing the refrigerator contents. There were no other problems. I purchased the control box kit and after installation, the refrigerator worked, but the damper continously cycled open and closed. After 4 or 5 days, the freezer still worked, but the fridge would warm up because the evaporator coil would freeze up and block air flow (wasn't defrosting). The cause - the offset 3-prong (limit switch) plug on the damper connections was not connected properly. Apparently, the factory chimp missed one of the blade terminals when making the plug connection. The damper cycled because it didn't "know" what position it was in, and the action fooled the ADC into never activating the defrost system. I plugged it in correctly, and am back in business.

1 Answer

Hello Mcjunk. Thank you for the information! This can help others in the future! Thanks.

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Susan for Model Number PLHS267ZAB6

I replaced the damper control box because the damper door would not open. The new box had less wires than the older one and I had to transfer the heater-freezer control to the new box. Now the refrigerator side is below 30, seems the damper door always stays open, it does close when I turn the refrigerator control knob off. I checked for loose connections. I did have to rewrap the heater-freezer control to the insulating tube. Did this need a special type of foil tape? I used regular HVAC foil tape. Any ideas on why the damper stays open.

1 Answer

Hello Susan. Check and make sure the connection on the damper motor in the contol box 5304482075 is making a good connection and is on the correct switch. If not, the motor will not open and close properly. Sometimes one of the wires may be loose or not making contact with the terminals. Hope this helps.

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Jon for Model Number frs23h5asb9

The fan inside the freezer cycles off and on 10 to 25 times before it kicks in for good . I put my volt meter on the fan connections and the voltage was going off and on also and could hear a click. I think from the thermastat on another Q and A on a different model (frs23h5asb6) you suggested part # ap5176342 for the same problem. All the parts in ap5176342 are the same for my model except for the refer. thermerstat is different. Can you suggest a solution ?Thanks Jon...

1 Answer

Hi Jon. The Control box kit part # is 5304482075. It is an upgraded defrost control board that also controls the damper which in turn controls the evaporator fan motor. This kit comes with installation instructions. Thank you.

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1 Answer

Hi Susan. Correct kit. See " Notes 5 & 6 " in instructions. Only plug in the damper motor connector to the switch closest to the foam. If reversed it will allow the damper to stay fully open. Thank you.

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Harold for Model Number FRS23H5ASB5

Hi. I received the control box part number AP5176342 and am in the process of installing it. I have three questions that are not addressed in the instructions. 1. There is a connector that contains two round receptacles with a blue wire and and orange white wire. The original did not have this connection pigtailed out of the back of the damper control. Does this connector not apply to my unit and just sits there not connected? 2. The freezer cap tube is glued to the Styrofoam and does not stick out. the instructions say to feed the tube through the opening into the freezer compartment. Was there a modification that makes it unnecessary to feed the cap tube through? 3. On the back of the damper control unit, there are two sets of connecters that have offset blade connections. On the old unit, there were two connecters attached here. On the new unit there is only one connected and one empty. Does this relate to the round connectors that I referenced in question 1? Thanks for you help.

1 Answer

Hi Harold. This is a universal kit that you need to correspond the model # to the wiring harness instructions supplied. The Square w/round pin connectors only plug in one way. Look at the corner with a Tab "hanging"- out, It aligns exactly opposing the unit wiring harness. It only plugs in one way. One wire connector may not plug into your model. The freezer capillary bulb has to insert into the freezer area through the center divider wall or the damper will not work. They did away with one set of switches on the damper area and the extra- plug does just fold away out of the area. Thank you.

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1 Answer

Jon, To my knowledge, No, you will need to order and install the individual parts as needed, based on the model number you supplied. Thanks and Good Luck

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Mcjunk for Model Number FRS26HF7BW0

Had a problem with the refrigerator freezing (damper or temp control sticking), so I bought and installed a new control box kit from you last week. Now the coils are freezing up, and the temps are high in both freezer and fridge. Is it possible there's a bad board in the new part? Is it possible that quite coincidentally the defrost thermostat went bad (I replace it once, 5 years ago). Or, would it have something to do with the freezer control cap tube bulb? My system has the heater around the cap tube. I had to reuse the white cap tube cover instead of using the black one that came with the kit. Wondering if maybe the cap tube isn't sticking far enough out of the white tube cover, and it's causing a freezer control reading and defrost problem?

1 Answer

Mcjunk, I'm thinking a coincidence, It does sound like a probable defrost problem. You may want to retrace evrything and make sure you didn't leave a loose connection somewhere in the harness connections. Thanks and Good Luck

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1 Answer

Hi Harold. You are correct. You will need to purchase the part # 5304482075 because it contains not only a revised damper assy. , it will get you a new adaptive defrost control board. This will put you into and out of defrost. If you have already temporarily put the freezer food in another freezer, You can remove the freezer bins, and shelves. Then remove the ice bin and shut ice maker off. Remove the back wall and manually defrost the evaporator with a hair dryer not getting too close to the inside cabinet walls.. Unblock the ice build up on the coils to get proper air flow again to the fridge side. Also remove the damper. Unplug all electrical connections on the motor and block the flap open @ 50% so the freezer air will get to the fresh food section as you are waiting on the new parts. This control box kit is part # 5304482075. Thank you.

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