Brian February 09, 2017 for Model Number FGFL79GSA Safety Control Valve (#316404901) seems to be leaking from the orifice, after replacing the igniter. Igniter installation was very simple, and I felt like all went well. After testing the igniter, and making sure the oven burner would light I started to smell gas when it was turned off. Took it all back apart, and sure enough with no power to unit, and the igniter taken off, the safety control valve is leaking from the orifice. Question: Is it possible that I caused this some how? I know how the valve works, and the igniter, and can not in any way justify this being my fault. However, just convenient timing ,and thought I would get another opinion.
1 Answer Brian, As long as you had removed power to the range, then it's just a coincidence. A power surge on the circuit, regardless of amount, can cause the bimetal switch inside the valve to warp and then leak gas. But it still sounds like a coincidence. Read More...
Dan November 16, 2016 for Model Number LGGF3043KFM Oven not getting up to temp, Preheat LED stays lit. Temp sensor resistance measures as good at room temp. Pulled burner covers out of the bottom of the oven and the flames were very small. The flames were only about 3/8" long. The flames on the broiler in the top of the oven, when on, are much larger, maybe an inch and a half or two inches long. The igniter does glow with a very bright white light when it is on. I assume the gas valve is supposed to be either open, or closed, and is not used to vary the size of the flame to maintain an even heat. Is the valve voltage 120vac? Do you know what the amperage should be at the valve? Any other ideas? While we're at it, for some time two of the burners are not sparking when the know if\s turned on, even though the other burners do spark when any of the knobs are turned to lite. I don't see anything built up around the electrodes that could be shorting it out. Hmm, maybe I can check continuity to the other electrodes. Hate to replace the gas valve if it might not be bad, since it is $177. Thanks for the help, Dan...
1 Answer Dan, The voltage to the safety valve should be 3.2 to 3.6 vac. If there is proper voltage then the valve would be faulty. As for the issue with the electrode not sparking you would want to a continuity test on the electrodes but also on the wires going to the electrodes. You may have a cracked or damaged electrode. Read More...
Al July 31, 2015 for Model Number fgfl67hsg The top burners would not light, I replaced the regulator, now the oven lights but heats up slowly is the safety valve bad?
1 Answer Al, You will want to test the resistance of the oven sensor to ensure that the sensor is good. The resistance should be approximately 1090 ohms at room temperature of 77 degrees. When the temperature goes up you will have to add 2 ohms per 1 degree that it goes up. If the sensor does not have the proper resistance then the sensor will need replaced. Read More...
Chris L March 31, 2014 for Model Number Frigidaire FGF368GCE I recently received a range from my brother-in-law. It was working ok, but I noticed it had a high-pitched squeal whenever I turned it on. I had a gas guy come out and he thought I was getting too much gas to my house. Sure enough, I had the gas company come out and they said there was 3/4 PSI getting to my water heater downstairs which is about 3 times more than it can handle. I am having the gas guy come back out and put gas regulators at each gas appliances but in the meantime, my range has had an issue with the Oven/Broiler. The top burners come on (Even though they make a horrible squeal) but the Oven/Broiler will not come on at all. I have looked at both and the elements light up but I do not hear or smell gas. I am concerned that the valve that feeds these may be damaged but I want to know if there is a way to test the valve before replacing it (As it is a fairly costly piece) or could it be something else like maybe the switch on the back got partially turned off, electric control board, etc.
1 Answer Chris, Test for 3.2-3.6 amps at the gas safety valve with the igniter turned on. If the voltage is there, you have a bad safety valve. If the voltage is low, you have a weak igniter and the igniter will need to be replaced. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Lucy November 24, 2013 for Model Number 316404901 Top broiler lights up, but bake doesn't come on. Controller says prelite.
1 Answer Hello Lucy. You need to test for power from the control to the bake. If it is not there, replace the controller. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Chris November 09, 2013 My mother has a Kenmore oven 970 which has a dual safety valve (#316404901). The upper broiler ignites - no problem. However, the lower igniter does not light up. I changed the igniter and still does not light up - nothing. I have done a continuity test on the valve and the meter beeps (continuity with tone setting) on both terminals of this dual valve. I expected this on the valve controlling the upper igniter, but not on the terminals for the valve controlling the lower igniter. So you know, the meter will beep for resistance of 50 ohms or less - according to specs - indicating there is continuity. When I set the meter at the lowest ohm setting it shows the same reading for both terminals as .002. Your thoughts.
1 Answer Chris, The most likely cause for the igniter to not glow is that there is no power getting to the igniter. You will want to check from the control to make sure that there is power leaving the control board when set to bake to go to the igniter. If there is no power then the control would need to be replaced. If there is power then check the wiring down to the igniter for broken or loose wiring. Read More...
Jspreer October 22, 2013 for Model Number LGGF3043KFK Our oven smells like gas when not in use. Its a faint gas smell that is mostly present inside the oven only. We have checked all the connections and no leaks. Is there a way to check the safety valve to see if it failed in an open/partial position?
1 Answer Jspreer, Yes, there is a way to gas leak the safety valve, But if all the other connections are not leaking, and the range has not been pushed back against the shut off valve, causing it to leak, then you'll need to remove the bake burner assembly 316404400 oven bottom and flame spreader and dab or apply a coating of warm soapy water to the orifice and valve body and check for "bubbles" from the seams and orifice, make sure you also remove power to the range. Read More...
Anthony August 05, 2013 My Kenmore oven Model no: 790.78813407, is leaking gas around the OEM valve, should I check for the leak or replace the valve. The oven still lights but I can smell gas.
1 Answer Hello Anthony. If the valve is leaking, you will need to replace the valve on the unit. Read More...
Pete June 27, 2013 for Model Number 79077484800 My gas stove is all working well but when I bake I can smell a heavy odor of gas. I have checked it all out to find no leaks but reading on the net all fingers point to the safety valve ? thanks in advance Pete
1 Answer Pete, You will want to check the burners for your oven to make sure that it is not rusted out or have any holes other than the burner ports. If they do then you will need to replace the burners. If these check ok then the oven safety valve would be the most likely cause of the smell. Read More...
Todd May 06, 2013 for Model Number Kenmore gas range 790.78642602 LP Stove top and broiler works fine. Bake flame is high and yellow. Replaced regulator and is converted to LP. Cleaned orifice and Tried adjusting with no success. The igniter appears to be working fine, it looks green to white hot and reads 124 Ohms. It takes about 90 seconds to light. suggestions?
1 Answer Todd, You will want to open the air shutter all the way and then fine tune it to get rid of the yellow flame by slowly adjusting it back closed. Also check to make sure that the orifice is aligned properly. Read More...