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Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Inlet Control Thermistor by Ge

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4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM12927561
Manufacturer Part Number: WE4M398

Dryer not heating or stops mid-cycle? A faulty inlet thermistor may prevent proper temperature regulation. This sensor monitors incoming air temperature.

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Dryer Inlet Control Thermistor (Part Number: OEM12927561)

1 Answer

Ron, You will want to make sure that there is no drag on the motor which would cause it to overheat and shut down. This would be the most likely cause for this issue.

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Jenny for Model Number GTD65GBSJWS

I have a GE gas dryer, model number GTD65GBSJWS. I've only had it for a little over a year and recently it stopped working. The power won't turn on at all and the door light is out as well. I checked the outlet so I know that works and check for continuity in the thermostats (high limit, inlet safety) which tested fine. I didn't get a reading for the inlet control thermistor so I assumed this was the issue. But reading some of these answers, I needed to check the resistance of the thermistor. I checked and it was 145 k ohm. Is that an issue or what could possible cause the dryer not to power on/start, along with the door light?

1 Answer

Jenny, You will need to check for voltage getting to the main control board. The connector on the control will be J101 and you will test the yellow and black wires. If 120 VAC is not present then either the high limit is open or there is a wiring issue [broken or damaged wire] between the control and the plug. If you do have voltage to the board on that connector then the main control would need to be replaced. WE22X35978

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Nightraven for Model Number DCVH640EJ0WW

Hi and thanks in advance. My GE DCVH640EJ0WW has started shutting down within minutes of TIMED, High setting. All power is lost for about 5-10 minutes and the unit will power back up. Set on medium heat, the unit will ALMOST always complete the 60 minutes. So far Iv cleaned the unit (inside and out) vent tray, pipes, etc are clean. Checked the door switch (though I knew this was not an issue) and lighly tapped the board relays after it stops (to see if they are sticking). Thoughts?

1 Answer

Hello Nr, the high heat setting uses both dryer heating elements, medium and low may temporarily use both or just one, when this occurs you would need to check if the electric power (120v-120v-240v) to the dryer is still present. Next, there is a safety high limit thermostat mounted on the heater shroud housing that may be opening then resetting due to an overheating problem, the dryer drum may need to be removed to check this.

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1 Answer

Katherine, Based on the information provided the first check to make is with a multi-meter at the terminal block (where the cord hooks up) and make sure you are getting the full 240vac needed.

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1 Answer

S.K., Check at the terminal block to make sure that you have proper power at the block and then test to see if there is power getting to the control board. If there is power loss at the terminal block then he power cord is faulty and would need to be replaced. If there is power loss at the control board then check the wiring. If both check ok then the control board would be the issue with this unit.

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1 Answer

Eddie, if the dryer is not heating at all, the dryer terminal block will need to be tested to ensure that there is 240VAC when testing L1 to L2. If there is 240VAC, the dryer would need to be unplugged, the element accessed, and the safety thermostat WE04X25198 and control thermostat WE4M398 tested for continuity. Both items should have continuity and would need to be replaced if either fail. From there, the element WE11X21156 would be tested from the blue wire to the violet wire and from the tangerine wire to the violet wire for resistance. The resistance reading should be between 20O to 23O. The thermistors should measure between 78O to 82O at 86°F. If these all test good, then the most likely failure is going to be in the main control WE22X35978.

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1 Answer

Jonah, There are 2 large terminals that you would test for continuity. If there is no continuity then the thermistor is faulty and needs to be replaced. The 2 small inner terminals will test for resistance of 9K ohms. If the reading is off then the thermistor will need to be replaced.

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John for Model Number GE Profile DPV880ejmg

A month ago my dryer stopped working ran the diagnostic and it stated it was the motor, replaced motor work good for a couple of weeks then shutdown. Run the diagnostic and it gave me a motor error and open inlet thermistor. Motor was still under warranty so I called the company and they sent me a new one. After installing it worked for 10 minutes. Ran diagnostic and it stated motor issues, did a test on the thermistors they all passed but the inlet thermistors states open. Question would the inlet thermistor stopped the motor from running? V/R John

1 Answer

John, you will want to test the inlet thermistor for resistance as it can cause this issue. At 69 degrees Fahrenheit, it should read 120kOhms, 100kOhms at 77 degrees, 80kOhms at 86 degrees, 29kOhms at130 degrees, and 19kOhms at 145 degrees. If it does not read accordingly, then it has failed. If it is good, then you may have a control issue.

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1 Answer

Roger, Based on your post information and descriptions, yes, the gas valve coils are the more likely issue WE4X692 and WE4X693 . The WE14X215 Gas valve assembly is a good option as well. The model number you supplied is incomplete or incorrect , so we're using the part number you supplied as a cross reference for the parts you may need. Thanks,

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1 Answer

Jason, The outlet and inlet thermistor should not have a resistance of the inner terminals being 140K ohms of resistance and should be around 10K ohms.

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