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Customer Questions and Answers for Heating Element by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM17380086
Manufacturer Part Number: WE11M10001

The Heating Element is an OEM replacement part for GE electric dryers. As the primary source of heat, it warm circulating air drying wet clothes efficiently.

Causes of failure may be surface fracturing and resistance loss due to deterioration over many heating cycles. Excessive mineral buildup may also hinder heat transfer capabilities.

Symptoms of a faulty element involve:

  • Very long or inefficient drying times
  • Unevenly dried clothes
  • No heat detected during drying cycles

This GE OEM replacement part is also compatible with Hotpoint, RCA, and some Kenmore models.

Mica style heating element.

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Heating Element (Part Number: OEM17380086)

Rich for Model Number GTD42EASJ2WW

I received the replacement heating element I ordered yesterday. Heating element arrived in original parts box and has been pushed in pushing down about 30 of the elements fins flat. I straightened them back out he best I could with needle nose pliers and making sure none of the elements were in contact with one another. I did not see any breaks in the fins but they were bent flat and now that they have been re-straightened did it weaken the fin elements to much for use. Should I install to see if it works or just return part?

1 Answer

Rich, It would be ok to install the heating element. The fins being bent and straightened should not cause an issue.

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Thomas for Model Number GFD45ESSM0WW

My dryer still feels weak in heat. The vents have been cleared and the dryer has been vacuumed out. I verified resistance inlet and outlet thermistor as 105k and 113k which seems correct. All thermostats have continuity. I put in diagnostic mode and the highest the outlet thermistor read is 103 degrees. The highest the inlet thermistor read is 240 degrees. I would think the outlet temp should be a bit higher? Do you agree that sounds like there is an issue and what is the most possible issue next?

1 Answer

Thomas, The inlet thermostat appears that it would be higher than normal and the outlet thermistor seems as though it is lower than normal. It would be recommended to check the blower wheel to make sure that it does not have anything caught that would cause an airflow issue. This would be the most likely cause for the issue. If this is good then the thermistors would be most likely.

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Jose for Model Number GTD33EASK0WW

Hello there !! My dryer heats too much and I cleaned it inside the air outlet is clean it has a new resistance, new timer and it still gets too hot the clothes are coming out burning hot as if something is blocking the air I don't have it connected to the outdoor pipe but it keeps getting too hot, it don’t take five minutes to get that hot I also check the rest of the fuses and they check okay what the I’m missing to check?? Help please thanks in advance

1 Answer

Jose, based on the information provided, it sounds like the cycling thermostat WE04X26214 on the blower housing is not cycling properly. It should open up at 130°F. This can be tested for continuity while using a thermometer and a hairdryer to heat it up to this temperature. If it does not stop having continuity at 130°F then it would need to be replaced.

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1 Answer

José, Based on the information provided I would check to see the vent is clear and proper size and not too long or collapsed. If the vent is ok then start by check to see that the element is not shorted to ground.

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1 Answer

Shawn, According to the tech sheet on this unit, the drum outlet thermostat should open at 135 degrees and close at 125 degrees. When looking at the biased control inlet thermostat it will open at 205 and close at 175 degrees. If you are getting an exhaust temperature of 125 degrees then this will be normal outlet temperature for the unit.

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Tc for Model Number DPSE810EG5WT

Our dryer will not start. The control panel turns on, and pressing the start button will cause a click. But the dryer does not spin, the motor is quiet, and there is no heat. The "sensing" light flashes. But that's it. The power intake checks out fine (120 & 240 VAC). The safety thermostat & thermal fuse pass continuity. The inlet thermistor passes for resistance (136 at 2000K setting). When I check the heater for continuity (with my meter set to 2000 ohms), I get a reading of 044. The continuity checks on the other parts of the dryer are either 000 or 001. Is this indicating that the heater is failing?

1 Answer

Hello Brock, This could be caused by a bad heating element just as it can be caused by a bad thermal cutout, an open thermostat, a bad centrifugal switch in the motor, a harness issue, or a bad timer contact. You should get a test meter and test the parts to determine the exact cause of the issue to avoid replacing multiple good parts.

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1 Answer

Hello Greg, When the two elements are energized at the same time, they are in parallel so they do not glow as brightly. This is normal as long as 240Vac is the voltage applied.

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1 Answer

Edward, Anytime there is a issue with the clothes not drying in the proper amount of time, the first thing to check is the venting. Check to make sure that there is good air flow from the blower wheel all the way to the outside of the home. You can disconnect the vent hose from the back of the unit and run a normal cycle to see if the unit does dry in the proper time and if so then there is a restricted vent.

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