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Customer Questions and Answers for Oven Thermostat by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM7869228
Manufacturer Part Number: WB20K8

The Oven Thermostat is an OEM part for GE ovens. This thermostat is a component in regulating the oven's heat, turning the heat on and off to maintain the desired temperature setting. With its precise calibration and durable construction, the oven thermostat is essential for achieving consistent cooking outcomes and preventing overheating, which could lead to burnt or undercooked food.

Causes of a bad oven thermostat include prolonged use, which can affect its sensitivity, and exposure to extreme temperatures, which may impact its accuracy.

Symptoms of a bad Oven Thermostat include:

  • The oven not reaching the set temperature
  • Oven temperature fluctuating too widely from the desired setting
  • Food not cooking evenly or within expected time frames

This OEM GE part is also compatible with Hotpoint, RCA, and some Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Oven Thermostat (Part Number: OEM7869228)

Marc for Model Number JGBS20WEW2WW

Hi. My oven was about 75F too hot. I bought an after-market thermostat made by a company called Lobright, and now it's about 100F too hot. This is with the knob calibrated to make it as cold as possible. Not sure if it's related, but I found it odd with this Lobright thermostat that my original knob did not fit quite right on the new thermostat assembly. I had to stuff a tiny bit of paper towel in the knob hole before pushing it onto the assembly. I could live with that if the thermostat was working. I have a feeling that the after-market Lobright products just don't work right. However, maybe the thermostat is working, and it's another problem? (Just a side note: the range takes too long to light. It clicks normally, but doesn't light fast enough. I sometimes smell gas for a few seconds after it has lit. Doubt that's related to my oven problem.) So basically, before I buy another thermostat, this time an OEM, I was hoping to get some insurance that indeed this is the problem. And, if I need to spend more on fixing the range issues, then maybe I'll just buy a new stove. I'd be happy to buy a multimeter, and start troubleshooting. However, I'd need a little better step-by-step with that. For example, which parts to start testing, and what readings I should be looking for for each part. Also, I see tons of videos on how to test the sensing bulb by disconnecting it from the wire. However, my bulb is attached to the wire, and goes right into the thermostat unit. So it would be helpful if videos and instructions were tailored more to my unit.

1 Answer

Marc, as this unit uses a thermostat capillary system, the thermostat assembly [WB20K8] would be the only item that could cause a temperature difference that stays maintained. If there was a fluctuation of temperatures, then it could possibly be the gas valve or ignitor causing an issue. But the fact that it maintains a steady temperature difference would indicate a thermostat failure. For testing purposes, the gas valve can be tested for resistance and should read between 1 to 1.2 ohms. The ignitor would be tested for amp draw and should draw 3.2 to 3.6 amps with a minimum draw of 2.9 amps.

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1 Answer

Kevin, we concur with your presumption. The WB20K8 Oven Thermostat, would be the most likely component causing the symptoms you described. The internal switch contacts are most likely weak and/or faulty causing power to be supplied to the oven burner and ignition system,

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Phil for Model Number 362.73220201

Gas oven burner periodically ignites with blue flickering flames across some of the orifices with control knob off. After a minute, burner goes off by itself with out touching the control knob.Oven is always warm about 90 degrees and gives off burned metal odor when it's been off for hours. The igniter failed after experiencing this issue. When the oven wasn't working due to the failed igniter, it stayed cool with no odor. Replaced the igniter. The oven works again but is always warm and gives off burned metal odor when it's turned off for hours. No issues with the range top at all. Purchased a valve and regulator kit but have not attempted to install since not sure if a special high temperature thread dope is needed on the unions and not sure whether issue could be the thermostat. Appreciate any assistance you can provide.Thanks.

1 Answer

Phil, for the ignitors to be able to operate, they will require voltage to spark so you most likely have a switch that is either not disengaging properly or an intermittently sticking contact in a switch. Also, there should not be gas able to go to a burner unless a valve has failed and not sealing properly. You will want to test each of the switches for voltage going to the spark ignitor when in the off position and you will also want to check that the valves are closing properly.

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1 Answer

Aaron, This issue would most likely be caused by a faulty oven safety valve on this unit.

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1 Answer

Hello Andrea. According to the Installation instructions the range should be connected to 120-volt, 60 Hertz, properly grounded branch circuit protected by a 15-amp or 20-amp circuit breaker or time delay fuse. GFCI is very sensitive to any small current leaking to ground what is very possible with the range due to the electronic ignition. I would recommend not to use a GFCI for the range. Thanks.

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1 Answer

Jonathan, The part number for the thermostat on your unit will be WB21X5209 but unfortunately has been discontinued by the manufacturer with no suitable replacement available.

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1 Answer

Joe, If the oven will eventually come back on then this issue will most likely be caused by a faulty oven safety valve which is part number WB21X20806.

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1 Answer

Kiesha, We would need to have a email to be able to send any type of wiring information out if it is available.

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1 Answer

Hello Horgan. If the probe was plugged in, you will need to replace the probe. If it was not, you will need to replace the probe harness WB18T10397.

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