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Customer Questions and Answers for Cycling Thermostat by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM6133251
Manufacturer Part Number: WE4M181

The Cycling Thermostat is an OEM part for GE dryers. It regulates the temperature inside the dryer drum by cycling the heating element on and off, ensuring that the dryer maintains an optimal drying temperature throughout the cycle. This thermostat is essential for efficient drying performance and preventing overheating.

Causes of a bad cycling thermostat can include regular wear and tear, exposure to high temperatures, or electrical malfunctions. A faulty thermostat can disrupt the drying process and may lead to safety concerns.

Symptoms of a bad cycling thermostat include:

  • The dryer not heating properly
  • Clothes taking longer than usual to dry
  • The dryer overheating or shutting off prematurely
  • The dryer not starting or completing cycles

This GE replacement part is also compatible with Hotpoint, RCA, and some Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Cycling Thermostat (Part Number: OEM6133251)

1 Answer

Hello Jordan, and thank you for your question. The high limit and the safety thermostat for your model do reset after they cool down.

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Erik for Model Number GUD24GSSM1WW

i HAVE A DRYER THAT WILL HAS NO HEAT. When attemting to start, the igniter glows and stays on for appx 15-20 seconds before shutting off and then starting over. Also after removing heating duct, I found a LOT of fresh soot on the bottom of the heating chamber and the back of the drum and between that and the bearing shaft mount cover thing. Does this mean the gas solenoid coils are probably defective? This is a propane unit and it seems as if you can't buy the solenoid coils separately only on this model. Every other model I have looked up lists the gas solenoid coils separately and shows as "bestseller" probably because they are commonly defective? I HAVE TESTED ALL COMPONENTS FOR CONTINUITY AND THEY ALL CHECK OK, with the exception of the igniter which shows tests good but seems intermittent on the tone feedback on my meter. i know the igniters are fragile but i think the problem may be inside of the connector plug on the igniter. I cant seem to get the pins released to verify they are crimped properly. How do i test the gas valve assy? Thanks so much

1 Answer

Erik, based on the information provided, the igniter and the flame sensor are operating properly, indicating proper voltage is reaching the burner assembly. As they are operating properly, the failure would be in the valve assembly WE03X27426.

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1 Answer

Ellen, With the clue of the clothes being very hot i would say the high limit has probably tripped. WE04X26139 The overheating issue will still need to be solved or the new high limit will do the same thing. It could be caused by low airflow, a heating element, or the cycling thermostat.

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1 Answer

Hello Tracy, check if the motor is overheating, it has an internal thermostat that will open if it overheats, and once it cools and resets the dryer can be restarted. Also, check if the motor is straining to turn the drum.

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1 Answer

Mark, It sounds like the heat is unable to be removed from the dryer. Check for a clogged vent or the blower wheel not running

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1 Answer

Hello Jay, first, disconnect the vent and try one test load with the vent off, if still poor drying , access, and closely check the heating element for a short or fault.

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1 Answer

Kwame, Based on the information provided it is likely to be a shorted heating element, but you will need to disassemble the machine to find out for sure what has been shorted out. the part number for heater assembly is WE11X20397

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Mike for Model Number GE GHDP490GF5WW

My GE gas dryer works fine as long as I use the "Timed Dry" function. If I use any of the other 3 functions such as "Delicate" , "Cotton" or "Permanent Press", the dryer never turns off. It gets hot and drys the clothes but the cam in the timer switch never rotates to the "OFF" position. I continuity tested the four wire cycling thermostat and it read a dead short across the large contacts and an open across the small contacts as the appliancepartspros tech help had suggested. Thinking of a timer switch, but I'm reluctant to purchase a new one for $87 without being sure it is the culprit. Anyway someone cam help me come up with a test so I can verify it is the timer switch before I go and purchase one? Thanks. Mike

1 Answer

Mike, your model will have voltage routed through the timer motor to the control board [WE04X10103] while in an auto cycle. The control board would be responsible for allowing the timer motor to progress until the last little bit of the cycle. To test if the timer is ok, rotate the timer to where it is about 1/8th an inch from the off position of an automatic cycle. From there, test the timer from connection T to connection X, these should have continuity when tested. If there is continuity, then the most likely issue would be the control not allowing the timer to progress when the control is sensing the clothing. If the contacts do not have continuity, then the timer is bad.

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Michael for Model Number GTDP301EL0WS

Dryer heats but takes a very long time with large loads and towels. Based on the info here and other youtube videos. I have pulled the Cycling Thermostat to test the heat range on a electric skillet since it had continuity at room temp. How do I test the range? Most videos had one heat range like at 155 and it actually stated it on that particular part. All I see on this one that is close to a temp is L210-30F. Same as what's in the picture for this part listed on this webpage. So does that mean it has a range between 210-230 deg F? I also tested the continuity on the safety and high temp thermostats. They both have continuity. Thanks for your help and awesome website!

1 Answer

Michael, This thermostat WE4M181 would cut out at 210 degrees. While it is possible that one of the cycling thermostats could be faulty it would be best to check your venting from the blower wheel to the outside of the home to make sure that it is clear as this would be the most likely cause for longer drying times.

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1 Answer

Thomas, usually a open heating element or heater safety thermostat will cause a no heat condition. Also, make sure you are getting 240 volts to the dryer.

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