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Customer Questions and Answers for Defrost Thermostat by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM11390457
Manufacturer Part Number: WR50X10065

The Defrost Thermostat is an OEM part for GE refrigerators. This component is essential in regulating the defrost cycle, ensuring that the refrigerator's evaporator coils do not become frosted over, which can impede airflow and cooling efficiency. The thermostat monitors the temperature of the coils and activates the defrost heater when necessary to melt any accumulated frost.

Symptoms of a failing Defrost Thermostat include:

  • Excessive frost buildup on the evaporator coils
  • The refrigerator or freezer compartments being too warm
  • The refrigerator running continuously without cycling off
  • Water leakage inside the refrigerator due to melting frost
  • Unusual noises as the compressor overworks to maintain temperature

Causes of a bad defrost thermostat can include normal wear and tear over time, exposure to moisture that can cause electrical issues, or a failure in the internal sensing mechanism that prevents accurate temperature regulation.

This GE replacement part is also compatible with Hotpoint, RCA, and some Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Defrost Thermostat (Part Number: OEM11390457)

1 Answer

Hello Joe, You will need to check the normal operating temperature in the freezer is from 0°F to 10°F. The job of the defrost thermostat is to open the heating circuit when the evaporator compartment reaches about 50°F. It is normal for the freezer temperature to warm up some, but it should not come above freezing. If it is, the defrost thermostat, (even if it is new), is still in question.

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1 Answer

Vince, You will need to test the temp sensor that is on the evaporator coils. The sensor at room temp should read 5K ohms of resistance. This will be the most likely cause for this issue.

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1 Answer

Hello Mila. Once you remove the back wall and access the part, you will cut the wires going to the thermostat. Then remove the old thermostat from the evaporator assembly. Clip the new thermostat in the same place the old one was at and strip the wires so you can splice the new thermostat into the wiring harness.

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1 Answer

Hello Milan, Remove the evaporator cover to access the over-temperature thermostat. The thermostat is clipped onto the suction line.Note: When replacing the over-temperature thermostat, splice a new thermostat into the wiring using connectors and procedures approved for damp/wet conditions.

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1 Answer

Hello djh854. Make sure the condenser coils are clean. If So, then make sure the temp in the unit is correct. As long as the compressor is running, then the evaporator fan should be running on the unit.

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1 Answer

Hello Kevin. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the main board WR55X10968 is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit.

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Dave for Model Number G. E. Refrigerator GSH25JSXB

Refrigerator slowly lost coldness and ice melted coming out ice?water door. Replaced compressor relay/overload and plugged back in. Worked fine up until next day. Checked defrost heater which was all discolored and foggy looking. Cooled down fine except went way below freezing. Replaced defrost heater and plugged back in. Did same thing- ran good for a day, then got warmerand warmer. Took door off and plugged back in -defrost heater came on with warm evaporator (no ice-room temp) and glowed bright for about 3 minutes, then everything shut off. unplugged and waited about an hour and plugged back in. Nothing runs. Lights in frig work ,but no compressor or fans. Is there a fuse link somewhere? Did I burn out the board or something? Should I replace board, thermistors and defrost sensor? Please help.

1 Answer

Dave, With nothing working but the lights on the unit, this will most likely be caused by a faulty main control board on the unit.

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Matt for Model Number PSS27SGNABS

My GE side by side fridge is failing to defrost, it had the same problem a couple months ago and was remedied by replacing the heating element. The problem has returned and this time its not the coil, jumping the defrost and line pins kicks the heater on. While testing the thermistors (WR55X10025) for resistance at the harness that connects to the board, the 4-5 circuit was reading open while the others were within spec. Suspecting the evaporator thermistor and figuring I would have to replace it anyway I decided to cut the thermistor out and test it directly before I ordered the replacement, I thought the open circuit seemed like an odd result for a failed thermistor. When I checked resistance across the thermistor (fresh out of my iced up freezer and still cold) it was in spec. Is there a connection somewhere between the thermistor and the board I can check? I'm positive it wasn't a connection issue with my meter or the harness, the other thermistors gave readings and I tried several times to get something from the one causing trouble, I also visually inspected the harnesses and wires, everything checked out. Thanks for your help, Matt

1 Answer

Hello Matt. No, the connection is at the control board. If the thermistor tested good, then it sounds like the board has failed.

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