Mike November 05, 2015 for Model Number PFIC1NFWBBV At two different times the refrigerator got so warm that it popped the door open. The top shelf of the fridge was close to 100deg. I am assuming the defrost term klixon is bad? at 80 temp I read .5ohms res. Is there anything else that could cause this?
1 Answer Mike, You will want to check for the lights to be staying on in the refrigerator section. If this is occurring then the issue will be a faulty control board. Read More...
Donald B January 08, 2015 for Model Number GSH25JSTFSS Currently I am having intermittent problem with my refrigerator and freezer section cooling. The freezer warm up enough to defrost nearly everything and subsequently also the fridge. I'm pretty sure I can hear the compressor running most of the time and can feel the fan blowing out the vent underneath the fridge. I have vaccumed the squirrel cage underneath and pulled the interior panel for the condenser and found no ice on it, just some refreeze above it underneath fan, possible from ice machine melting/refreezing. When the refrigerator/ freezer warms up there is nothing running at all, no compressor, no fans and then hours later it kicks back on again just enogh to refreeze freezer and cool fridge. The damper between the fridge never closes . And condenser fan above coil inside freezer seems to be running slow/weak even though freezer and fridge are cranked all the way up. It's about 6 years old and im leaning towards a bad mother board and replacement of thermistors, and prolly replace condenser fan also,,,,, Am I headed in right direction? I plan on Checking Ohms once parts arrive and I can tear the freezer apart. suggestions?
1 Answer Donald, With the unit not cooling and there being a little bit of frost on the evaporator coils but the compressor is running then the most likely issue would be a restriction in the sealed system. If this has happened slowly it could be a slow leak. Read More...
Mark October 29, 2014 for Model Number GSL25JFTABS The freezer on this unit goes in to defrost but terminates after everything becomes thawed to the point of water before it comes back on. I am guessing the defrost thermostat may be out of calibration. .
1 Answer Mark, You will want to check the defrost thermistor for resistance. The resistance value of the thermistor should be 42.2K ohms at 0 degrees, 14.4K ohms at 37 degrees and 5K ohms at 77 degrees. If not in range then the sensor is faulty. If the thermistor checks ok then replace the main control board. Read More...
Marty September 25, 2014 for Model Number PCF23NGWABB Freezer has been at 0, Fridge at 36 since we bought it. Recently the freezer has been around 4-6 and fridge at 49. I have cleaned the coils, plugged back in and Freezer will onlu go down to 4 and fridge 42. I'm trying to figure out what part needs replacing. I'm leaning towards the defrost Thermostat. Please help with suggestion! Thanks!
1 Answer Hello Marty. You need to check and make sure the condenser fan motor is running. If it is not running, replace the condenser fan motor WR60X10209. If it is running and your having a frost issue, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the control board. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Jim October 13, 2013 for Model Number GSH25JFTAWW Sensor/Thermostat. I have a defrost failure. I defrosted Evap coils and replaced Defrost thermostat p# WR50X10065 after testing heater with a meter. Two weeks later Evap fan running constantly, Evap frosted up again. Damper to Fresh Food Side was open but no airflow.There are three sensors p#WR55X10025. (FF side) controls the damper,(Freezer lower) controls temp / compressor, (upper on evap) controls defrost on/off? Is the Defrost T-stat p# WR50X10065 a safety overtemp for a runaway heater and only opens @ 140*deg? I jumped between line and def on the plug (unplugged from the board) and heater came on. After defrosting again and running the refer for about 1/2 hour, I checked sensors (unplugged from the board) pin 2/5 13.21K, 3/5 20.4k and 4/5 was 1.4k. So it sounds like the sensor at the top of the evap is bad and not the board. Does my understanding seem correct? Thanks.
1 Answer Jim, The evaporator sensor would definitely be bad if you are only getting 1.4K ohms resistance reading between pins 4 and 5 on the J1 connector. The sensor should be registering around 42.2K ohms at 0 degrees. The freezer sensor also seems a little low on the resistance scale as it should also be around the same as the evap sensor, although the evap sensor should be higher resistance with it sitting on the evap it will get colder. The FF sensor looks like it is checking ok. Read More...
Jim September 12, 2013 for Model Number gsh25jftaww I could not find the tech sheet. How do I manually put into defrost? ie.. Push buttons on Icemaker control board, push in door switch 7 times, turn off/on temp controls three times. Thanks
1 Answer Hello Jim. You have to use a jumper wire and jump across defrost and line on the main board. Be extremely careful as this is live power you are dealing with! Read More...
Donna July 02, 2013 for Model Number Gsh25jfxb Fresh food side not cooling. Freezer is fine. Tested and replaced sensor temperature gauge in fresh food side. Did not fix the problem. What should we test or do next?
2 Answers Hello Donna. If there is frost on the back wall of the freezer, It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Donna July 02, 2013 for Model Number Gsh25jfxb Fresh food side not cooling. Freezer is fine. Tested and replaced sensor temperature gauge in fresh food side. Did not fix the problem. What should we test or do next?
2 Answers Hello Donna, This is going to be a defrost issue. You need to remove the freezer rear wall and test the defrost heater (AP3183311). Read More...
Patty April 28, 2013 for Model Number gsh25jfxb Frig wasn't cooling so after removing cover in freezer I found coils all covered in frost. Is this a defrost thermostat issue? My fan is working, and when I recently defrosted frig in a cleaning, frig was cold for about a week. I'm trying to decide which part to replace first, the defrost thermostat, defrost heater or the defrost timer. Thanks for your help, Patty
1 Answer Hello Patty. It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Carl January 23, 2013 for Model Number GSL25IGXBLS Ice forms in the freezer box and freezes the crusher/cube solenoid It seems that ice forms in the back of the freezer cabinet and is all over the back of the box after a bit. It also freezes the solenoid plunger for the crushed/cubed ice device. Thus the ice crusher when it works only dispenses crushed ice. Not sure why this ice forms, but it causes a mess. Also, the ice in the ice storage tray refreezes in big chunks and thus does not dispense ice. In addition we have replaced all of the temperature sensors in the refrigerator and replaced the motherboard for the refrigerator. What causes this? Thanks,
1 Answer Hello Carl. You will need to check and see if the solenoid assembly WR62X10055 is bad in the dispenser and needs to be replaced on the unit. This will cause the issue you are having with the unit. Read More...