Armando October 23, 2021 for Model Number GE Microwave Model JVM1750DP2BB My microwave turns on, but does not heat, timer counts down to 0. I have checked the door all good. What could be the problem? Thanks
1 Answer Armando, if the turntable motor and the cooling fan operate, the transformer would need to be tested for 120VAC from the black wire to the blue wire with a meter during operation. If there is not voltage, the main control WB27X11080 has failed. If there is voltage, the microwave would need to be unplugged and left for 10 minutes to allow the capacitor to discharge. The magnetron WB27X11079 would then need to be visually inspected for any visual indications of failure to include inspecting the antenna for a burned or damaged filament. Read More...
Das November 21, 2020 for Model Number JNM1541SN1SS Hi, Recently while using my microwave oven for a long time continuously, it started to make some sound and then turned off. It's totally dead. I did some reading and think it could be an overheating thermostat issue. I checked continuity on 2 thermostats and one doesn't show continuity. The number on the top of the thermostat is 0905 KSD-40LC 70. And on the back it says: AC250V/10A AC125V/15A. Is this the problem and need to be replaced? Or it is an Open thermostat and no continuity is normal? Please guide me. Thanks in advance, Das
1 Answer Das, there are several thermostats on your model. There are two that usually sits on the bottom of the panel, one should read continuity and the other does not. There is a 20 amp fuse located on the noise filter that can be checked for continuity. Look for a cavity thermostat that has a white wire and a white and blue wire on the other side of the thermostat, it is a cavity thermostat and if open will not allow the unit to work Read More...
Mario October 09, 2020 for Model Number JVM1752SP1SS The microwave appears to be working normally. It runs and lights and beepers work, and turn-table turns, but it does NOT heat up food. In the past, I’ve had some intermittent problems when running the microwave, toaster, and electric stove at the same time. The main breaker box would click off the breaker switch to the kitchen. I would reset the switch and it would work fine for several months before popping off again. Today, I’ve tried resetting the breaker switch, but the microwave still won’t heat food. I’ve even run a heavy-duty extension cord from an outside plug, into the kitchen, and to the microwave. It still will not heat up anything I put in it. What do you recommend?
1 Answer Hello Mario, The issue can be with the low voltage supply to the magnetron circuit or on the high voltage side. You will first need to determine if 120Vac is being provided to the high voltage transformer from the board. If not, the issue could be a door switch or the board. If the voltage is supplied to the low voltage side of the high voltage transformer. you could have a bad high voltage capacitor, a bad high voltage diode, a bad high voltage transformer, or a bad magnetron. Need to discharge the high voltage capacitor and do some testing with a test meter to determine the cause of the issue. As a note, there are two thermostats mounted to the floor of the unit behind the control panel. One of these is the hood thermostat and is supposed to read open. Read More...
1 Answer Luis, All thermostats will be closed except the magnetron cooling fan thermostat which remains open until it reads a certain temperature then closes to allow the fan to run and cool things down. Read More...
Alfredo January 20, 2020 for Model Number GE JVM3670SK04 My microwave-circa 2008 new with house purchased stopped operating earlier this month. Here are some details taking place prior to the microwave tripping the dedicated circuit breaker: - Within 5 seconds of the microwave programmed to heat, a loud growling-type noise could be heard, followed by the microwave power shutting down, tripping the circuit breaker. This was re-constructed three times. - Once power was restored, the date could be re-set using the control panel, the timer would continue to operate, and both the downlight (to light a separate gas range-unattached from the microwave and the fan could still operate. Further note that the microwave's capacitor did not exhibit any sign of being deformed. When following the installation of the magnetron and re-starting a heating cycle for under 5 seconds, I did detect a slight burning odor at which point I immediately shut off the heating cycle. The source of any kind of burning could not be readily established as the odor immediately dissipated. I did buy from Appliance Parts Pros and have installed a magnetron, but the same initial problem persists. Are there any recommendations on what else to change out? Would you recommend I continue to attempt a repair, given the situation as I described it? If a repair would be performed, what would be the sequence of replacement parts inserted and sequentially tested by initiating a brief test microwave heating sequence? There are a number of reasons why I'd like to repair the microwave that has been extremely reliable over the las 12 years, mainly that today's appliances don't have the durability of older models (trend to a casual disposable culture?) Earlier in December, 2019, I had occasion to repair parts to my highly reliable 12-year old LG Steam Clothes Washer, after its door hinge was no longer operating (determined to be caused by severe corrosion to its tension springs). The hinge change, along with installing a new rubber door seal and detergent/softener/bleach drawer have it operating as good as new. Many thanks for having the parts available! Your feedback is greatly appreciated on my microwave issue.
1 Answer Hello Alfredo, since you replaced the magnetron tube and did not mention any further growling noise just a burning odor, I would suggest you check the inner walls of the waveguide. If the magnetron had arced to the waveguide it would have damaged itself resulting in the growling noise, consequently, if there are any arc marks or scorch marks on the waveguide inner walls then the waveguide is damaged and it is not a replaceable part. The microwave cannot be repaired. Read More...
M.J. September 17, 2019 for Model Number RVM1625SJ01 My microwave will run okay until it is run it for a while, then it will completely shut off for a while. About 20-30 minutes later the power will come back.
1 Answer Hello M.J., This could be caused by a loose connection building resistance from the excess heat from running for a while, a failing thermostat, or an issue with the control board. The unit will need to be run until it experiences the issue and power will need to be traced through the circuit to determine the exact cause of the issue. It could be caused by a failing breaker in the breaker box or even a loose wall outlet. The trouble will just need to be located with a meter or voltage sensor during the time the issue has recurred. Read More...
Frederick July 30, 2019 Exhaust Fan runs whether door open or closed when 1st plugged in. GE Profile Microwave Oven PVM1870DM3BB replaced Magnetron, Diode, Capacitor, all 3 door switches, Thermal Switch. The microwave heats and shuts off normally but Exhaust fan constantly runs and the fan symbol on the display is indicating it is on. When I disconnect the microwave and then plug the power cord into the A/C socket, the display comes on and then the exhaust fan comes on low and stays on all the time whether I heat up something or not. I set the clock to a time and then microwave shows time in display. Next, I put a cup of water to heat for 30 seconds and it counts down to 0 then beeps and shuts the magnetron off but fan ALWAYS stays on. I went into OPTIONS and selected normal and one other time slowest fan speed but the exhaust fan continues to run. I do not know where the exhaust thermostat is. I replaced a thermal Switch which was on the lower right vertical frame just to the right of the fan that cools the large transformer. I have no readable schematic of the parts and now at my wits' end. Thank you
1 Answer Hello Frederick, This is most likely a stuck relay on the control board WB27X11068 but could also be caused by a bad control panel WB07X11119. Read More...
Andrew January 23, 2019 for Model Number JVM6175SK1SS My microwave GE have all time exhaust fan runs and no starting to heat. I checked 2 thermal fuses behind the control board: one was closed, another was opened. I replaced opened, the microwave started to work, but exhaust fan runs constantly, despite the fact that in manual was written, it has to stop running in 15 minutes after plugin. What part have I replace, or I put wrong thermal fuse?
1 Answer Hello Andrew, You should begin by replacing the three door switches, two WB24X829 and one WB24X830 since these will cause the fan to run continuously. Read More...
Nicole November 17, 2018 for Model Number JNM1731DP1BB We have a GE microwave model number jnm1731dp1bb. We were microwaving and it just shut off. We replaced the thermal fuse and the 20 amo buse fuse. What else do you recommend? We were thinking about replacing the part 11y-ksd-40lc 70.
1 Answer Nicole, It would be recommended to check the door switches on the unit and check the thermostats in the unit to see if any of them are faulty. Read More...
Samuel March 18, 2018 I have a GE microwave model #jvm3160rf2ss with no power, prior to that it was working then heard a poof! and now its dead. I checked both thermal fuses with a meter 1 has continuity and the other does not. Do you think that is what it is?
1 Answer Samuel, The most likely cause for this issue will be a buss fuse WB27X11138 located on the unit that has failed. If this has failed then replace the fuse and check the door switches to ensure that the door switches are good. Read More...