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Customer Questions and Answers for Main Control Board Kit (Dishwasher) by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM17957478
Manufacturer Part Number: WD21X22276

This dishwasher main control board kit is the central circuit board that directs all wash functions. Replacing a failed board restores proper power distribution and timing so cycles start, advance, and finish correctly, helping prevent intermittent shutdowns and erratic operation. What it does:

  • Controls cycle timing and communicates with sensors
  • Distributes power to the wash motor, drain pump, inlet valve, and heater
  • Works with the door latch and user interface to start/stop the cycle
  • Failure may cause no power/won't start, stalled cycles, blinking lights/error codes, or incorrect filling, draining, or heating
What's included:
  • One main control board kit
Install notes:
  • Disconnect power at the circuit breaker; turn off water if moving the dishwasher for access
  • Board is typically in a housing beneath the unit—use ESD precautions and keep connections dry
  • Photograph/label wire harnesses; transfer connectors one at a time to the new board
  • Restore power and run a test or rinse cycle to proper operation

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$175.24
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Questions & Answers

For Ge Main Control Board Kit (Dishwasher) (Part Number: OEM17957478)

1 Answer

Ralph, the heater WD05X30818, TCO (part of the wash pump kit WD49X23778, and the water turbidity sensor WD21X22598 would need to be tested. With the power supply turned off, the heater and TCO can be tested from the two wires at the main control WD21X22276 connection J702. From wire to wire, there should be a resistance of 18-23 Ohms. If not, the heater would need to be tested directly to identify if the failure is in the heater or the TCO. If the heater has resistance when tested directly but there was not resistance when testing the wires, the TCO has failed. If the heater does not have resistance when tested directly, it has failed. If resistance is present when testing from the wires at the main control, the turbidity sensor would need to be tested for resistance using the wires at the connection J711. From the brown and orange wire at pin 11 to the orange wire at pin 8, the resistance should be 10K Ohms if the sensor is good. If these parts tested properly, the failure would be in the main control.

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1 Answer

Jim, Check for power out to the heater (when it should be on) from the board, if there is none the issue would be the control.

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1 Answer

C Patel, The correct part number for the main board would be the WD21X22276 and sounds like you may have gotten a mispackaged part.

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Justin for Model Number GDF520PSF4SS

I am still having trouble with a G.E. Dishwasher and trying to get it to work properly.I have written two letters to your and everything your have recommended i have tested or tryed or did replace some parts and the dishwasher is still not working properly.it is not drying the dishes.First your told me to check machine control operation and ohms and resistance through wiring and element and just check element by itself.I did ohm testing at J702 connection and didnot get get full 23.4 ohms but got alittle over 21 ohms.I did the element testing by itself and it all checked out.So after that testing seemed to be okay i went ahead and replaced motor control board cause that is what you said should been problem.I also went ahead and install a new heat element also even though the old one tested good.the ohm reading was alittle low so i just did board and heat element.Ran the dishwasher and still not drying dishes,no voltage or amperage at wiring to element and does not seem like element is even coming on.Next was my error i was running dishwasher with cold water supply line instead of Hot water line and that was what you told me in my second letter that it needed to be hot water.Did it and dishwasher still not drying dishes,again still no voltage or amperage at the wiring that goes to element and element still seems to not be coming on.I am stumped,Please help.What am i missing what else can be causing my problem that i am missing and need to check out.I should be getting some voltage through wiring and drawing of amps when the dishwasher goes into heat drying cycle,Is that correct?Please help me if your can and let me know what else i need to look into that might be causing my problems,since i have followed all your instructions to this point and dishwasher is still causing me grief.Thanks so much for your time and listening and sure hope your can help me out once again.

1 Answer

Justin, the turbidity and thermistor sensor WD21X22598 will need to be tested for resistance from pin 1 to pin 4. It should have a resistance of 10K Ohms (plus or minus 100 Ohms) at room temperature. If it does have proper resistance, and the heated dry setting was selected, it is likely that the user interface control WD21X31899 is not communicating with the machine control properly. If the resistance is not within the tolerance, it would need to be changed out.

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Justin K for Model Number GDF520PSF4SS

I am still having trouble with a g.e dishwasher.This is my second letter to your on it.I followed everything your told me to do on first letter and still having problems with it.The problem is the dishwasher is not drying the dishes.I will give your a quick run down of what your told me to check last time and what i did.Your told me to check out the machine control.with the wires connected to heater,J702 test from violet wire to red and white wire for 23.4 ohms.I did that and my unit was dry and i got a ohm reading of alittle over 21 ohms.your originally said if resistance shows open but was showing good at heater then Tco on a/c wire harness and pump kit has failed.But my resistance was not open and i did disable the heat strip and test it by itself and it tested good.The last thing your said in first letter was if reading is good at two wire points the machine control would be cause of problem and my readings were alittle lower than 23.4 ohms but nothing in resistance was open or did heating element show bad.So i replaced main control board and heating element due to ohm reading being alittle low and dishwasher is still not drying the dishes.Could your please direct me to what else i need to check when i ran them both times before replacement of parts and then after the replacement of the parts i check for power at heat element and amperage when it goes into dry mode and i get no voltage or amperage,so the heat element is not coming on or trying to come on.One thing to mention is i am running dishwasher on a cold water supply line instead of hot water supply line.Could this be causing my problem or could it be something else. Your help again on this dishwasher would be so so greatly appreciated.Thanks for your time once again.

1 Answer

Justin, You will want to have the dishwasher set up on a hot water line as the unit would not be able to heat the water to the proper temperature. Hot water coming to the dishwasher is one of the most important aspects of getting clean dishes and them drying.

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1 Answer

Ken, at the main control connection J702, the violet wire would need to be tested to the white and red wire for a resistance of 18 Ohms (when the element is wet) to 23 Ohms (when the element is dry). If the resistance does not test good, the next step would be to test the element directly. If the element does test good for resistance, the failure would be in the harness which would require the harness WD49X23781.

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1 Answer

Michael, The next step would be to check for power to the dispenser assembly at the point it should open the detergent cup, or replace the dispenser assembly.

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1 Answer

Curt, it would be recommended that the user interface is checked to identify if the control lock is activated. If the red padlock is illuminated, press and hold the steam button for 3 seconds and the red LED should turn off. If the controls still do not accept any input after that, the user interface WD21X25379 would be the likely failure.

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1 Answer

Clyde, The flashing green light is a sign of a fault. We need to know the sequence of flashes.

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1 Answer

Mark, Remove the lower access panel and the control board will be underneath. There should just be a screw or 2 that would hold it in place.

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