Ge WD05X30818 Heating Element OEM Part

I followed the directions on several websites for repairs. The obvious place to start is the heating coil and thermostat. I checked the continuity of the coil and it was good with a reading of almost zero resistance. Next I read that there is no thermostat controls on my GE dishwasher so I followed another webpage that said the Sensor Turbidity Assembly acts like a thermostat so I replaced that. Wasted effort as that switch sensor was OK. Normally it has a light on when it is working, a point not noted on the webpage. Next I read that the coil has a low resistance value (in my case 18 ohms wet and 23.4 ohms dry). I was recording much less than this so the advice of that webpage said to replace the coil. This I did and again it was not the problem- if you have continuity it is probably good. Next I discovered a website that said that this model has a thermostat that is part of the Flood Switch that is just below the fine filter. Checking this I noticed the filter was full of lime buildup so I decided to replace that as well as the Flood Switch which was easy to pull. This was the correct move at last and it works great now. My advice if it is not heating is to check the heating coil first and then go to the flood control element. By the way, I followed the "error mode" and "service mode" test and no problems where indicated with blinking LEDs. I should also mention I replaced the spray arms because the lower one was broken and was not spraying correctly, but that was obvious physical damage you could see without a test. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I2u2pF8Dyo for the Flood Switch change out.

I replaced the Switch flood assembly and that corrected the problem. This is a thermistor unit. I could not get any ohm reading from this. While I had the dishwasher out I replaced the old heater. The old heater's ohm reading was 16. The new heater reading was 16. I now have a spare. Additional info: I also checked the high limit thermostat that is fastened to the tub. It read closed as it should. If the high limit switch is open this would indicate the relay on the main control board. Replacement of the main control board is the repair for that. If the heat relay's contact on the main control board weld closed, this will cause a "runaway" heating condition. Then the high limit thermostat would open and heater would stop heating. Hope this helps anyone that needs it. Thanks, Nick

Replaced the float switch, and as a precaution, the heating element (although that part continuity tested good, but was 4 years old). This was after considerable research, trying to piece together information about this dishwasher. Common sense told me it would be a thermostat - so I found out that if it tests good for continuity (which it did), then its good, because it's a "high limit" thermostat. This was a relief because the thermostat is part of the drain pump wiring harness - $90. Glad I didn't need it! I was surprised the float switch is the demon in these dishwashers, but it makes sense if you consider this whole appliance is made of plastic, and it's trying to prevent destroying itself with heat if the water level is not correct. The parts arrived sooner than expected (next day on a weekend!). We were delighted to get the dishwasher up and running again, the sooner the better, with a total cost of $64. Not to mention a great feeling of satisfaction having done it myself.

Replaced heater element.

Replaced the heating element with this part. That didn't fix the problem so also needed to fix the float switch - which ultimately fixed the problem. Recommend trying the float switch first for anyone novice. Otherwise if had the patience and tools to take the dishwasher out and test the heating element first I probably would have figured this out as well. But relatively cheap to replace both parts. Works great now.