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Customer Questions and Answers for Control Board by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM20679129
Manufacturer Part Number: W11382529

The Control Board is an OEM part for Whirlpool refrigerators. It manages and coordinates various functions of the refrigerator, including temperature regulation, defrost cycles, and the operation of fans and compressors.

Causes of a bad control board can include electrical surges, exposure to moisture, or component failures over time. A faulty control board can disrupt the refrigerator's ability to maintain the correct temperature, leading to food spoilage and inefficient operation.

Symptoms of a bad control board include:

  • Inconsistent temperatures within the refrigerator
  • The refrigerator not cooling or freezing properly
  • The unit not responding to temperature adjustments
  • Display or control panel malfunctions

This OEM part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Control Board (Part Number: OEM20679129)

1 Answer

Fred, diagnosing the main control would be done by process of elimination. As the thermistors tested good, the only item left that would control temperature would be the main control W11382529.

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1 Answer

Darlene, the electronic control W11382529 is the direct replacement for the user main control in the model number provided. It does have two wire connections and a ground wire.

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Woodie for Model Number WZF34X18DW00

Following up on my earlier question.... The freezer defrost thermistor mounted on the evaporator coil reads 2935 ohms at 75F and 8480 ohms at 33F (in Ice water). It is snugly mounted to the evaporator coil just as it was when I first removed it for testing. When the evaporator coil freezes over, the thermistor is coated with ice just like the coil is and yet the heating element that I've shown to be good does not come on. I believe I've now tested everything else but the Freezer Contrl-Box (AP5988907). Is there an other part that could be the problem?

1 Answer

Hello Woodie, since from your testing the freezer defrost thermistor checks within operating specs ,and it is secure to the tubing then likely the problem is with the control box, W11382529, and no other parts are involved.

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Woodie for Model Number WZF34X18DW00

Why is my upright freezer not defrosting the evaporator coil? The symptom: Freezer fan is running but food is no longer staying frozen. Accessed evaporator coil and found it to be iced up. Removed all ice and restarted freezer. Temperature returns to about 0 to 4 degrees F when at recommended setting. Food stays frozen. Approximately 4 weeks later the freezer has iced up again and food is no longer frozen solid. Freezer is about 4-5 years old. Heating element reads 36.1 ohms. Heats properly when connected directly to house current. Thermistor on evaporator coil reads 2.94 KOhms at 75F, 8.48 KOhms at 33F (ice water) and 20.88 KOhms at 3.2 F (in a different freezer). Thermistor in the food area reads 2.82 KOhms at 75F, 8.66 KOhms at 33F and 21.11 KOhms at 3.2F. Door seal appears to be in excellent shape. Do these parts appear to be working correctly? If they are working as they should, what else can it be? Is there a way I can diagnose a problem with the Freezer Control Box?

1 Answer

Woodie, check the freezer defrost thermistor part [AP6020675,its mounted on the evaporator coil,, it can be checked with a multi meter and has values of 2700 ohms at 75 degrees and about 8000 ohms at 32 degrees (in ice water), also it has to be snug to the tubing otherwise the control board will think in the defrost cycle the evaporator coil is warmer (defrosted ) then it actually is,.

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1 Answer

Jill, If there is only ice where the refrigerant lines come into the unit then this would be an issue with the sealed system and will need to have service for this issue.

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2 Answers

Arthur, you should have voltage going into the control on the black and white wires, if voltage is there, the control is bad and will need to be replaced.

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2 Answers

Author, Go to the control and look for connector CN1. Pins 4 and 1 you should have 120 vac. Wire colors are 1 black and 1 white. If your voltage is there then replace the control if no voltage then there is a wiring issue in a splice or cabinet lining.

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