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Customer Questions and Answers for Electronic Control Board by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18035535
Manufacturer Part Number: WP8182785

Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Electronic Control Board (Part Number: OEM18035535)

1 Answer

Kevin, Are you sure you have all the harnesses between the UI(user interface) and the CCU Central control unit) properly seated and attached? Have you attempted to conduct the diagnostic or manual test programs ? You should find your tech data sheets in an envelope attached to the back side of the lower access panel. Program into the test modes and iof the new control has had any failures or errors, they should appear in the tests. If there were no codes generated, then you can presume the new conmtrol is faulty.

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Diane H. for Model Number Whirlpool GHW9150PW1

Kept getting the F02 code, clean the drain at the bottom which was completely clogged, ran a couple times to get sedement out of lines, then ran the washer cleaning monthly maint which completed and cleared out the rest of the sedement, (I have well water). Went to do my load of laundry and now the door wont lock and gives me the DL code. How do I know its just the door switch that needs replaced and not the whole control board ? Also, still have a load banging noise when it enters the fastest spin cycle but stop's shortly after and finishes the cycle, does not bang unless it's in the fastest spin mode and has been doing this all along.

1 Answer

Hello Diane, It is actually considered normal for the unit to make noise and to even vibrate at times in the spin cycle. The unit senses the most violent and the smoothest spin speeds and will finish the spin at the smoothest rpm. If it were possible to perfectly balance a wet load of clothes this wouldn't be necessary but, unfortunately, being in the real world, perfection isn't possible, so mankind came up with this method. As far as the DL code goes, A Door Lock Error occurs if the door cannot be locked. It will try to lock it 6 times before displaying the error. Potential Causes • Door Lock Mechanism broken or removed from the Door • Check Door Lock/Switch Assembly • Check the wire harness connections to the Door Lock/Switch Assembly and Central Control Unit (CCU) • Door Lock/Switch Assembly Failure DIAGNOSTIC TEST The control must be in the OFF state before pressing the touch-pad sequence to start the test. Starting the test mode Close the door. Press the Control On button. Select the DRAIN/SPIN cycle. Select NO SPIN by pressing the SPIN SELECT button, as needed. Push Prewash Option button four (4) times within five (5) seconds. C:00 will show in the display.NOTE: If Model does not have PREWASH Mode as an option, press RINSE/HOLD. If the Starting procedure fails, push PAUSE/CANCEL button. Then repeat the starting sequence. The first thing that happens in the diagnostic test is the display will read C:00 and the door should lock or try to lock. You can test at the door lock for the voltage but this is un-necessary if the door lock mechanism makes a noise. If no voltage is getting to the door lock mechanism, the issue is an electrical connection or the main board. If the voltage is present at the door lock mechanism, the door lock mechanism has failed and requires replacement to restore normal operation.

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1 Answer

Hello Freda. If the wiring is good on the unit, and you can touch the control and they come back on, then you will need to replace the control board WP8182785. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Hello Bert. If the control locked light does not turn off, and the connections and buttons are good, you will need to replace the electronic control WP8182785. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Joe, If the softner dispenser never dispenses, you may want to consider a control. but first you need to check and make sure you have plenty of cold water to the fill valve, check the hose and valve debris screens for sediment. Remove the dispenser cup and cap and check the syphon tube for clogs and debris. Remove the top of the washer and check the dispenser motor and linkage for damage and proper alignment. Did anyone notice an F13 or F5 error code in the display ? Thanks and Good Luck

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1 Answer

Hello Melissa. If after replacing the door lock you are still having issues then it is possible that you have a defective cable connector, or the Central Control Unit (CCU) is defective. Normally, if the CCU fails, an F11 error would also be generated. Here's what you need to do to verify: Inspect the wire harness at BOTH ends to ensure you don't have any connectivity issues. Look for any frayed or broken wires along the cable run. The cables are generally installed well by the manufacturer, but it's possible that the cables have come loose and begin to chaffe, or break. Next locate the CCU, directly behind, and slightly above the wash tub. This is the Main Computer for the washer. There two connector plug leading from the CCU that control the door latch functions. They are as follows: Plug 6: Door Lock/Unlock Solenoid (3-wire connector, 5th from the Right along the front of the CCU) - Readings across the Lock and Unlock solenoid test points should be 60 ohms. Unlock is Pins 2 & 3, Lock is Pins 1 & 3. Plug 8: Door Lock Main Switch (4-wire connector, 3rd from the Right along the front of the CCU) - Readings across test points 1& 2, and 4&5 should read 0 ohms with the door in the LOCKED position. You will need to close the door and press the START button the lock the door. If the CCU works you should get 0 ohms at the test points mentioned. NOTE: Checks are to be made on the board, NOT the plugs. Pins should be number from L to R. Perform end to end continuity checks on the cables by disconnecting the plugs at either end. Make sure the washer is UNPLUGGED when you do this. If you do not get the appropriate readings at the CCU, I'm afraid you have a failed board. Hope this helps, and good luck.

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1 Answer

Hello Jan. Try removing the pressure hose and blowing through it to make sure it is not clogged. While your doing this, have the machine unplugged to reset the board. If it continues to drain, and not reset, the pressure switch may be bad. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Hello Jan. If you run a diagnostic test, you can determine if the control is bad. If it will not run the test, the control is bad. Hope this helps. DIAGNOSTIC TEST The washer must be empty and the control must be in the OFF state before pressing the touch-pad sequence to start the test. Starting the Test Mode ¦ Close the door. ¦ Push CONTROL/ON (if present on this model). ¦ Select the DRAIN/SPIN cycle. ¦ Select NO SPIN by pressing the SPIN SPEED touch-pad. ¦ Push PREWASH OPTION four times within five seconds. If PREWASH OPTION is not present on this model, press RINSE HOLD four times within five seconds. C:00 will light up on the display. If the Starting procedure fails, push the PAUSE/CANCEL touch-pad, then repeat the starting procedure. Test Program Control In order to advance to the next step of the test procedure, push PREWASH OPTION touch-pad two times. If PREWASH OPTION is not present on this model, press RINSE HOLD two times.

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