Chris December 26, 2023 for Model Number LGR6620PT0 the outside of my dryer gets extremely hot just on the opposite side if the case from my burner like in the 175-180 degree range on the outside of the dryer i have good air flow and there is no obstructions in the dryer i can see the burner light and go out. the temp that the side of the dryer gets to scares me would this switch be my issue
1 Answer Chris, In most cases when this issue occurs, the venting to the outside of the home is clogged and would need to be cleaned out. Read More...
Glenn February 20, 2022 for Model Number WDG4850BWD ANSWER Glenn, unfortunately, the model provided is not showing within available databases. If the model could be verified and provided in a new question, this will allow more accurate information to be presented. Generally, the first step would be identifying if the ignitor glows during operation. If not, the voltage would need to be tested to identify if the ignitor is being sent 120VAC when tested from the hot wire to ground chassis using a meter. If there is voltage, the failure would be in the centrifugal switch of the motor. IS THIS EASY TO REPLACE? CAN YOU SEND A DIAGRAM?] THANKS FOR YOU ASSISTANCE ps DO YOU HAVE SWITCH OR DO I HAVE TO REPLACED THE WHOLE MOTOR
1 Answer Replacing the motor is not a relatively difficult repair and if the centrifugal switch has failed, the entire motor would need to be replaced. Read More...
Glenn February 20, 2022 for Model Number WHIRLPOOL MDL WDG4850BW0 whirlpool dryer mdl WDG4850BW0, motor works, drum turns . not heating. I've replaced flat ignition, t/stat kit, dryer coils (2) and still not heating what else can I do???
1 Answer Glenn, unfortunately, the model provided is not showing within available databases. If the model could be verified and provided in a new question, this will allow more accurate information to be presented. Generally, the first step would be identifying if the ignitor glows during operation. If not, the voltage would need to be tested to identify if the ignitor is being sent 120VAC when tested from the hot wire to ground chassis using a meter. If there is voltage, the failure would be in the centrifugal switch of the motor. Read More...
Leo February 08, 2020 for Model Number GGW9200LW1 I recently purchased a high temp switch, a thermal fuse, and a set of solenoids for this gas-fired (propane) dryer. the burner only stays on for about 10 seconds and then cycles for about 1 min 45 sec before firing again. I pulled off high temp switch and the burner would stay on until I disconnected one of the wires for a second. Then the unit would cycle for about 2 minutes before igniting again. question 1: could this be the wrong thermostat for this dryer? perhaps set to open a connection at too low of a temperature? question 2: does the polarity matter on the high temp switch? in this dryer, the thermal fuse is located on the air exhaust while the high temp switch is located on the burner tube question 3: could the burner flame spreader be throwing too much heat on to the high temp switch? the flame does not look unusual but a little more yellow than I thought is should hope you can help. I've been playing with this thing for a while now, but don't want to give up. however, my wife is getting pretty close to the giving up stage
1 Answer Leo, the first thing that would need to be checked is the ventilation going from the dryer to the wall, and the ventilation going from the inside wall to the outside. A clogged up vent can prevent proper airflow and cause a heat source to short cycle. The hi-limit cutoff W11050897 is the correct part used on the burner shield and is not polarized. The burner tube can be adjusted to allow for more airflow to the flame by adjusting the shutter a little at a time if needed. Read More...
Rod H April 05, 2018 for Model Number GGW9250PW2 Neither of the two sensors you sent in the bag labeled CUTOFF-TML with part number W11050897 look like the high temp cut off in my gas dryer. They don't look like the picture in your parts list for my model either. Are they safe to use in my dryer and if so which one is the correct one to use?
1 Answer Rod, The high limit thermal cutoff on this unit would be part number W11050897 and the hi limit may have been changed by the manufacturer so may look different. Read More...
Todd B December 07, 2017 for Model Number GGW9200LQ1 gas dryer will not re-ignite after one heating cycle. I replace the two coils and thermal fuse. I just ordered the high limit themastat. could it be that? It was still not igniting after the coils and fuse and glow seal, and thermal fuse were replaced.
1 Answer Todd, While it is possible that the high limit thermostat could be faulty it would be more likely that the cycling thermostat located on the blower housing is at fault and would need replaced. There is also a chance that the gas valve is faulty and not reopening when it is trying to go back to the heat cycle. Read More...
Curt September 08, 2017 for Model Number WGD4800XQ1 This particular dryer is a gas dryer I timed the cycles after I changed the cut off kit the flame was on for 35 seconds it was off for a minute it cycled like that several times on for 35 seconds off for one minute Temperature maintained inside of the dryer was 135° outside where it exhausted was 117° the length of pipe witch is 4" metal duct from Dryer to outside is approximately 25 feet I measured temperature with an infrared thermometer. Can you tell me if this would be considered normal operating temperature considering the length of the exhaust pipe to the outside of our home. If it is not then I would assume the flame sensor could be a problem. I would appreciate any help you could give me. Thanks
1 Answer Curt, This does sound like it would be normal operating temperatures. 25 ft is about the max distance as a completely straight pipe and each elbow will reduce that down. Read More...
Richard August 08, 2017 for Model Number RGD4440VQ1 Hello, I have a Roper Whirlpool Gas Dryer for 5 years. The symptom I have now is that the after start in the Auto Sense Dry High Heat mode the flame (burner) turns on but after a while it stops and it no longer starts again. In addition in this mode the time does not move forward. In the Time Dry High Heat Mode the timer runs as established for the 30 minutes and the flame (burner) turns on ok. I cannot say if in this mode the burner needs to stay longer or not as it is for 30 minutes. With this info cannot you please provide what is bad? is it the timer or is the sensor or is both or the coils? Many thanks in advance
1 Answer Richard, If the burner flames shut off when the unit is running after just a few minutes during any cycle then this would likely be caused by faulty gas coils. The other thing it could potentially be would be a bad cycling thermostat. Read More...
Richard August 07, 2017 for Model Number Roper RGD4440VQ1 My gas dryer, in auto sense mode when it starts, the burner is on for a few minutes but then it shuts off and does not turn on again. Also the timer does not run, it stays in high dry. If it is in the 30 minutes high dry mode the timer works and the burner turns on but just in the beginning like in the auto sense. Are both timer and the sensor bad?
1 Answer Richard, Neither the timer nor the sensor are bad. Being a gas dryer, and based on your post description you most likely have a set of weak gas valve coils 279834 / 279834 Dryer Gas Valve Coil Kit. On "auto sense" cycles, the dryer has to heat properly and the burner cycle off and on for the timer to advance. If there is low or no heat the timer will not advance and turn off. The timed dry setting the timer will advance and turn off at the end of the selected time, regardless of whether the dryer does or doesn't heat. Remove the 1X1 inch inspection plug on the front panel, and start the dryer. look in the opening and observe the ignition sequence, let the dryer run 15 or 20 minutes and return and observe the ignition sequence. Chances are you'll see the glow bar glow, hear the click and the glow bar fade, but no flame ignition, because the coils have failed. Read More...
Brigitte May 25, 2017 for Model Number SGDS800MQ1 My gas dryer still seems to dry hot, whether on low knits or extra low delicate setting. I have replaced the thermostat, thermal fuse, the two solenoids, the 5-point timer switch, even the ignitor (but that was because a mouse chewed the wires and they were exposed). The only thing left is the hi-low fuse. Should I or shouldn't I? Or could the new timer switch be faulty? Thank you for your expertise and help. :-)
1 Answer Bridgette, The first thing to check will be the venting. You will want to check this from where the lint filter is located to the outside of the home. If there is a restriction it will cause the unit to get too hot but take longer times to dry. If this checks ok then the cycling thermostat would be the most likely cause for the issue. Read More...