Customer Questions and Answers for High Limit Thermostat Kit by Whirlpool

Chris, In most cases when this issue occurs, the venting to the outside of the home is clogged and would need to be cleaned out.

Replacing the motor is not a relatively difficult repair and if the centrifugal switch has failed, the entire motor would need to be replaced.

Glenn, unfortunately, the model provided is not showing within available databases. If the model could be verified and provided in a new question, this will allow more accurate information to be presented. Generally, the first step would be identifying if the ignitor glows during operation. If not, the voltage would need to be tested to identify if the ignitor is being sent 120VAC when tested from the hot wire to ground chassis using a meter. If there is voltage, the failure would be in the centrifugal switch of the motor.

Leo, the first thing that would need to be checked is the ventilation going from the dryer to the wall, and the ventilation going from the inside wall to the outside. A clogged up vent can prevent proper airflow and cause a heat source to short cycle. The hi-limit cutoff W11050897 is the correct part used on the burner shield and is not polarized. The burner tube can be adjusted to allow for more airflow to the flame by adjusting the shutter a little at a time if needed.

Rod, The high limit thermal cutoff on this unit would be part number W11050897 and the hi limit may have been changed by the manufacturer so may look different.

Todd, While it is possible that the high limit thermostat could be faulty it would be more likely that the cycling thermostat located on the blower housing is at fault and would need replaced. There is also a chance that the gas valve is faulty and not reopening when it is trying to go back to the heat cycle.

Curt, This does sound like it would be normal operating temperatures. 25 ft is about the max distance as a completely straight pipe and each elbow will reduce that down.

Richard, If the burner flames shut off when the unit is running after just a few minutes during any cycle then this would likely be caused by faulty gas coils. The other thing it could potentially be would be a bad cycling thermostat.

Richard, Neither the timer nor the sensor are bad. Being a gas dryer, and based on your post description you most likely have a set of weak gas valve coils 279834 / 279834 Dryer Gas Valve Coil Kit. On "auto sense" cycles, the dryer has to heat properly and the burner cycle off and on for the timer to advance. If there is low or no heat the timer will not advance and turn off. The timed dry setting the timer will advance and turn off at the end of the selected time, regardless of whether the dryer does or doesn't heat. Remove the 1X1 inch inspection plug on the front panel, and start the dryer. look in the opening and observe the ignition sequence, let the dryer run 15 or 20 minutes and return and observe the ignition sequence. Chances are you'll see the glow bar glow, hear the click and the glow bar fade, but no flame ignition, because the coils have failed.

Bridgette, The first thing to check will be the venting. You will want to check this from where the lint filter is located to the outside of the home. If there is a restriction it will cause the unit to get too hot but take longer times to dry. If this checks ok then the cycling thermostat would be the most likely cause for the issue.