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Customer Questions and Answers for Damper Control Assembly by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18050448
Manufacturer Part Number: WPW10196393

The Damper Control Assembly is an OEM part for Whirlpool refrigerators. This component regulates the flow of cold air from the freezer compartment to the refrigerator compartment, ensuring consistent and optimal temperatures throughout the appliance. It plays a critical role in maintaining the balance between freezer and refrigerator temperatures.

Common causes of a bad damper control assembly include electrical malfunctions, physical damage to the damper, or wear and tear from regular use. Over time, the motor or the damper flap can fail, leading to improper air regulation.

Symptoms of a bad damper control assembly include:

  • Inconsistent temperatures between the freezer and refrigerator compartments
  • The refrigerator being too warm or too cold
  • Frost buildup in the refrigerator compartment
  • The damper making unusual noises or not moving as it should

This OEM part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Damper Control Assembly (Part Number: OEM18050448)

Nicole for Model Number GE GSS25WGPD-BB

Hi there, I have a GE side by side fridge model # GSS25WGPD-BB and the freezer, compressor and fan are all fine. The baffle (or is it called the DAMPER???) to the fridge side closes prematurely and stays closed too long causing the fridge side to barely get cool at all ( I feel nice cool air blowing in from the freezer). Can I safely jam the baffle flap open permanently? I have the pretty baffle/damper cover off and was moving the little flap up and down when it decided to pull itself shut even while the fridge was still warm. Anyway, if it is NOT recommended to jam it open permanently (so my fridge stays cold) please can someone tell me the part I need to buy to fix the baffle/damper flap from closing prematurely on its own before the fridge can get cold... I flip it to open and when I go back outside to check, the little flap has closed itself yet again and my fridge box is still warm..... :( thanks- Nicole

1 Answer

Hello Nicole. If you do that, your food in the fresh food will freeze. It sounds like you need to replace the damper WR09X10050 on the unit.

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1 Answer

Hello Mike. It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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1 Answer

Kevin, You will want to check continuity of the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. If they both have continuity then replace the control board WPW10503278.

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1 Answer

Jim, Check the baskets for articles hanging over the back or sides, holding the top of the freezer door open,and check that the door panel is sealing against the top flange, actually all the way around the opening. Check the freezer temperature, make sure the temperature is not below 0 dgrs. F. (preferably 3 to 5 dgrs) If the room air is infiltrating into the freezer compartment through a gap, ice accumulates on the evaporator and reduces air flow to the refrigerator compartment. Also check the freezer back wall for a heavy frost or ice build up on the complete panel, this would indicate a defrost issue.

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Susanne for Model Number Whirlpool Gold GI6FDRXXY. Part no. W10310959

My refrigerator is side by side with with bottom mounted freezer. My issue is that water is leaking to the bottom of the freezer creating an ice skating rink. I have to remove this thick piece of ice every week. I had a repair man appraise my problem and he told me that I need a new computer board,which would cost me $450. What! My refrigerator is just a little over a year. Unbelievable! My question is, why can't I find this part and replace on my own? I can't seem to find this part anywhere. Can you help me?

Northern Unity for Model Number 596.66032601

This is a Kenmore bottom freezer unit. It is 3.5 years old and has started making louder and louder noises when it cycles into ? defrost cycle ?. In prior fridges this was always the "cycle timer" and it's plastic gears making more noise. Before it stops functioning I wanted to replace it. I looked at your parts here and suspect it is the " Control" AP4873610 listed here. If so ... where can I see a parts explosion showing me how to get at this piece to replace.Thank you for your assistance ... Jim

1 Answer

Northern, You're on track. The refrigerator you have does not have a "defrost timer" or "cycle timer". The defrost cycle circuit is a separate circuit in the control board WPW10503278. Based on your post I imagine you may hear a buzzing or chatterrring noise when you open the fridge door and the fridge is in the defrost cycle . Thanks and Good Luck

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Terry for Model Number mbr2256kes6

My damper motor (part # AP4373610) has been replaced twice now in a year. The refrigerator ran fine for a few months then the motor gradually started running louder and louder. Eventually it sounds like a mini jackhammer inside and is loud and annoying. Has this been addressed with this part? Is there a fix to quiet the motor? I'm on the third motor and again after a few months it started running loud. I would rather not have to purchase a new motor twice a year. Thank you!

1 Answer

Hi Terry. Check the freezer temperature to make sure you are not below 0-degrees. Too cold of air will accelerate part life. Is there any door seals not sealing or the door chute flapper not sealing well? Inspect the sides of the door seals and the corners. All of this will allow the outside moisture collect on the damper assy as it is a mid point junction between freezer air and fresh food air. This damper is part # WPW10196393. Please let us know as we can assist further. Thank You.

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1 Answer

Joan, The part number you supplied is for the "Auto Damper" not the control board, WPW10503278 . At this point, your first check needs to be the freezer drawer and slides, Make sure the drawer front is properly aligned to the cabinet and seals to the frame all the way around. Check the drawer slides and rails for debris etc. keeping the drawer from closing compltely. and check the evaporator fan (in thee freezer compartment) is circulating the air. Your Technical data sheet is located behind the kickplate grille, in a plastic bag taped to the bottom of the compartment, you'll be able to run all the tests of all the components in the fridge and test for various issues with that information. Good Luck and Thanks

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Trentes007 for Model Number Whirlpool bottom freezer # GB2 SHTXTS 01

This is Trent againn re Whirlpool GB2 SHTXTS 01. I ran all the tests on the control board. They came up: Defrost Thermostat OPEN; Compressor/condensor fan ON (I hear it turn on and feel air); Evaporator/freezer fan ON (I hear it run and feel air); Fresh Food Thermistor PASS; Frezer Thermister Test PASS; Open Damper Test OPEN (hear it make noise then stop like it is opening, same if switch to CLOSE); on FF and FZ Performance adjustment, I reset them to 8 (second coldest setting). I can tell the fans are running but I do not know how to see if the compressor is running. There is no frost at all but that makes sense since the entire fridge is fairly warm. But every few days the freezer compartment will get cold and freeze things for several hours, but that is followed by a few days of warm freezer not even cool just room temp. Is it possible that something is wrong with the defrost cycle - that it is being in defrost 4 hours and in cooling 15 minutes instead of the way it is supposed to be 4 hours cool 15 min defrost? How would I re-set that? Thank you

Trent.E. for Model Number GB2 SHTXTS 01

Fridge is 2 years old. Suddenly the freezer drawer compartment is no longer freezing. Just barely cool. When this happened, FF section was still proper temp, but two days later FF section is just cool not cold. Fridge sounds the same as when it worked. I can feel cool air from th freezer vent and from the upper FF section vent, but it is cool not cold. Freezer I empty now and FF section is almost empty, so there is free air circulation. I have never connected the water line so I do not use the filtered water feature.

1 Answer

HI Trent. Is your compressor running? Are both evaporator and condenser fan motors running? Is there any frost on the back wall of your freezer? If so then you have an defrost Issue. This is normal with all brands of units. You will need to replace (at least) the defrost thermostat and heater. Thermostat is part # WPW10165425. The defrost heater is part # WP67001794. Let Us know if we can assist you further. Thank you.

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