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Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Kit by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM9282741
Manufacturer Part Number: 279816

This dryer thermal cut-off kit is an authentic OEM replacement part for Whirlpool and Kenmore dryers. It is designed to prevent the dryer from overheating.

This Kit Includes:

  • High Limit Thermostat (250°F Limit)
  • A Cut Off Fuse (309°F Limit)
  • Female Spade Terminals
  • Jumper Wires

Over time, these components can fail due to electrical issues, lint buildup blocking the exhaust vent, or normal wear and tear. A malfunctioning thermal cut-off kit can result in overheating, which can pose a safety hazard and affect the dryer’s performance.

Symptoms of a bad Thermal Cut-Off Kit include:

  • Dryer not heating
  • Dryer overheating
  • Dryer shutting off mid-cycle
  • No response when attempting to start the dryer

This OEM part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Kit (Part Number: OEM9282741)

Dr for Model Number MEDC465HW0

I am currently replacing a Matytag Electric Dryer (Model MEDC465HW0) Thermal Cut-off Kit and using the associated video on the AppliancePartsPro.com website to guide my installation (great video by the way!). When reviewing the section on the high limit thermostat at the bottom of the burner tube, I noticed the video shows an orange wire connected to the old-style limit thermostat. My current (as purchased) dryer configuration does not have the orange wire shown at 2:33 of the AppliancePartsPros video, only two red wires, one connected to the old-style high limit thermostat at the top and the second connected to the right-hand side of the burner connection. The replacement kit I purchased contains what appears to be a pre-configured jumper wire and a new style high limit thermostat. Are there any modifications to the described updated installation procedures that account for my current configuration not having the orange wire?

1 Answer

Dr, With there not being an orange wire, then the configuration should be the same as the way it was originally.

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Neil for Model Number LTE6234DQ2

DRYER STOPPED HEATING INSTALLED AP30942 AND HEAT WAS BACK BUT ONLY WORKED FOR A FEW LOADS INSTALLED AGAIN THIS TIME REMOVED DRYER VENT HOSE TO WALL AND WAS NOT PLUGGED INSTALLED 3RD TIME AND THIS TIME RAN WITH VENT HOSE OFF AND WATCHED TEMP WITH HEAT GUN HEAT WOULD RUN FROM 120 TO 140 HOOKED HOSE UP SAME RESULTS ASSEMBLED AND DRYER RAN FOR COUPLE LOADS AND SAME THING AGAIN NO HEAT WHAT COULD I BE MISSING ??? THIS DRYER WASHER COMBO HAS BEEN INSTALLED IN THIS HOUSE FOR 20 YEARS AND IS INSTALLED IN A INTERIOR CLOSET NOT AGAINST OUTSIDE WALL WITH 2 FLEX DRYER HOSES HOOKED TOGETHER TO OUTSIDE WALL VENT COULD TJIS BE THE PROBLEM ??? THANKS

1 Answer

Neil, Based on the information provided, the issue is your airflow. The manufacturers recommend using only rigid pipe, 4-inch diameter with limited 90° turns, and limited length. See the owner's manual for the exact number of turns and length.

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1 Answer

Harry, There is no thermostat or fuse that will stop the motor from starting. Chances are lint has built up around the windings keeping the motor to hot to restart. Try cleaning with a vacuum and see if that helps or look at replacing that motor in the near future.

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1 Answer

Tom, it would be recommended that the wiring going from terminal WB to the motor is inspected for a loose connection that may be interfering with the timer having a complete circuit. The timer motor operates in timed mode when 240VAC is applied to the motor.

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1 Answer

Paul T., Based on the information provided, the issue could be a thermal fuse, a belt switch, or a belt. You will need to disassemble and check these to determine which one has caused the failure.

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Fix It Mom for Model Number LER5636JQ0

Yesterday, our dryer never turned off, just kept running with timer knob still showing same place in the cycle, didn't advance. I also found it wasn't heating air, just running air. Ran it a couple times to test and timer didn't seem to advance. Opened it up and found the wire from the heating element to the thermal cut off is melted. Continuity is fine on thermal fuse, thermal cut off, thermostat, and heating element, although the heating element (which is brand new in last few months) shows a bit less than to 0 on multimeter, goes to maybe 1 on my GE analog multimeter. Wire and connector are very fried, bit of discoloration on heating element post where it connects. I assume it just needs the wire replaced...maybe an issue of just aging. Would you suggest anything besides replacing the wire? Is that a type of wire I can purchase at a home improvement store, it and a new connector? Finally, did this melting wire cause an issue in the timer or once replaced will the timer advance again?

1 Answer

Fix It, Mom, The wire would definitely need to be replaced, and the wire repair kit 279457 and the terminal on the element would need to be cleaned or the element replaced, element 279838. If the timer was on an automatic cycle then it may be fine after the heating issue is repaired. If the timer was on a timed dry cycle you will likely need to replace the timer. timer WP3976584

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1 Answer

Hello Ted, there is an Orange wire that goes from the timer to the terminal connection at the heater element, if loose or damaged the timer cannot advance in Auto Dry.

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1 Answer

Zack, Check the venting of the unit as this could cause the heater to short cycle. If this is good then check to see if there is still 240 Vac to the heater when the heater is going off. If there is not then test the thermostats to see which one is open if any. If they are all closed then you will need to check to see if there is 120 Vac from the timer to the heater. If there is not then replace the timer.

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Don for Model Number 110.66822694

I just got the parts for my dryer. the new thermal cut-off kit says to cut the orange wire. My dryer does not have an orange wire. The old switch had another lead that connected to the terminal block. I talked to Sally. She sent me two answers from other people. I'm still confused as to where the new jumper wire goes. Do you use any of the two new terminals or just the jumper wire? I only have two red wires one to the switch (top) the other to the carminic fuse on the heat box.

1 Answer

Don, Thanks for the question!!! Have you watched the video for this part: https://youtu.be/_fjNHYcPH5E If you do not have a third (orange) wire the thermostat will be installed the same as the video but without the need to connect that wire.

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1 Answer

Hello Hannah, While the model number provided does not come up as a valid model number, I have replaced enough of these to know that without the small orange wire, you will not have to use the small connector. You will need to use the piggyback terminal to connect the wire to the thermostat and still be able to "jump" this connection to the heater terminal if the original thermostat is connected to the heater terminal. If not, it has been changed before and will wire as before.

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