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Customer Questions and Answers for Surface Burner Spark Electrode by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18038565
Manufacturer Part Number: WP8523793

The Surface Burner Spark Electrode is an OEM part for Whirlpool gas ranges. This electrode is responsible for generating the spark that ignites the gas burner, allowing the burner to produce a flame for cooking.

Over time, the spark electrode can become faulty due to exposure to high temperatures, grease, and general wear and tear. This can lead to unreliable ignition or complete failure to ignite the burner.

Symptoms of a bad surface burner spark electrode include:

  • The burner not igniting
  • Weak or intermittent spark
  • Clicking sound without ignition
  • Burner flame going out soon after ignition

This OEM part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Surface Burner Spark Electrode (Part Number: OEM18038565)

1 Answer

T., Unfortunately, we are not showing a video for this specific model to remove the main top but it will not be difficult. If you remove the burner grates, the caps and there will be screws holding the burner heads in place. Once these are removed it would be as simple as just pulling up on the main top. Some models will have spring clips between the main top and the front panel so you may need to depress these to lift the top.

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1 Answer

Ken, In order to get the screws out, if they are corroded then you may have to drill them out and the screws to replace them would be part number W11772394.

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1 Answer

Dale, If the burner will ignite by turning on another burner then the ignition switch would be the most likely cause for this issue.

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Tom for Model Number GS470LEMT1

I am having a hard time changing the ignitors. I figured out that I needed to remove the burners after lifting the range top. I don't think I bent any tubes. I then disconnected the burners but could not unscrew the ignitor from the bottom. Do I need to start disconnecting the gas tubes to each burner? If so, how do I check for a gas leak later? I would have assumed the gas stops earlier on at the knob. Do I need to use a special Teflon-style tape for gas when I reattach the tube? What risk is there for me blowing up my house if I do this wrong? On two of my burners, one of the two bolts broke in half, leaving the second half stuck inside the burner. Do I need or should I to get two more burners to replace them? Right now, they are only fixed by one bolt each.

1 Answer

Hello Tom, Whenever you look for a leak you use a lightly soapy water solution, (one teaspoon of liquid detergent to one quart of water). The ignitor is WP8523793. The burner will not have to be replaced unless there is an issue with it. There is a very low chance of an explosion and you are correct that the gas is turned off by the gas valves. You should use Teflon tape designed for gas applications on any gas connections. This is commonly yellow in color but the label will state its' use is intended for gas. You can also use the putty or "pipe dope" which is like a paste that is brushed onto the threads.

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1 Answer

Hello Jesse! Unfortunately, the burner igniter is not available separate from the igniter/orifice tube assemblies listed for your model. For the left rear assy use part number 318924705, left center assy use part number 318924706, left front assy use part number 318924704, center assy use part number 316540700, right front assy use part number 316540700, and right rear assy use part number 316540800. Thanks!

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1 Answer

Hello James, You would need to put the units' model number from the I.D. tag into our site and look up the part number by the model number. This is the only way to get the correct part for your unit. I'm sorry but without the units' model number, there is no way to look up the correct part number. Thank you for your patience and understanding in this matter.

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1 Answer

Cold Supper, If you look closely you'll probably find that the insulator is cracked or chipped and allowing the arc to jump to the cooktop. It'll need to be replaced. Basically, remove power to the range, and turn off the gas supply at the wall. Remove everything from the cooktop surface grates, caps, and burner bases(2 screws each) and carefully raise the cooktop. Carefully disconnect the burner base from the gas supply tube, flip the base over and change the ignitor. Be careful, you don't want to crack or kink the gas supply tube and the brass fittings are very soft and easily cross threaded and leak. Make sure you check for a gas leak before you reconstruct the range.

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1 Answer

Hello Jeff, You should use hot white vinegar and an old toothbrush to clean away any spill residue. Then make the area shiny where the ignitor should spark to. This is difficult since scraping the burner will remove metal and you do not want to re-shape the burner, only provide a clean spot for the spark to ground electrically. If this doesn't correct the issue, peel the plastic or paper coating from a bread tie and use it in the gas orifice to clear it completely since even something as insignificant as a spider web can affect the gas flow.

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1 Answer

Hello Jamiel. Make sure the unit is not wet where you cleaned it. Also, make sure the orifices are not clogged from cleaning the unit.

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1 Answer

J, We wouldn't expect the igniter electrodes to be the issue at this point, You will want or need to check to see if you got water in the igniter switches and caused a short. or water in the spark module and shorted it as well.

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