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Customer Questions and Answers for Oven Thermal Fuse by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18028515
Manufacturer Part Number: WP4456654

Oven won't heat or shuts off during self-clean? A blown thermal fuse is often the cause. This safety device prevents overheating. DIY repair in 10 minutes.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Oven Thermal Fuse (Part Number: OEM18028515)

Jerry H for Model Number Whirlpool RBD275PDB12

I have purchased a thermal fuse #4456654 for this oven. Defective fuse snapped at the plug while attempting to remove it. I cannot get the bad fuse out of the connector. All efforts have failed. I think that it is to late to use a extractor tool. Is there a replacement connector available? Do I need to purchase the entire wire harness? Can you give me the part number for both the connector and the wire harness for all of the cables that connect to that connector. Thanks,

Gary for Model Number KEBS207DBL8

My wife put the self cleaning on & only the convection one on top was cleaned. That may be that she just hit upper one? When cycle is done top oven opens but bottom one doesn't open as it is locked. Error code says locked door and too hot 2 codes on panel were E-7 and F-5. I called Kitchen Aid & they said they didn't know but to turn the power off to see if it re-sets. Did that & no luck. When power restored panel said too hot and Door locked. So we let it sit for a day. Tried to turn upper oven on- No dice! Can't turn on lower over or open door. Where do I start? Some say it is a fuse? Some say it is a door latch? Some say to get a cost hanger to unlatch lower door? About to try it but I doubt that will make overs come back & work. Yo I am hungry & take out will get old soon & expensive. Help! Need to isolate problem. If it is a fuse, I think I need to get the door open to change it? If it is the door switch with cylinoid then that is a different deal. Why would both ovens crap out after one the top convection over gets cleaned. Used that convection over 2 times in 10?? Someone come to my rescue otherwise it will Pizza all day for Super Bowl But whatabout the hereafter SB?

1 Answer

Hello Gary, The E7 F5 error code indicates that the self clean latch will not unlock. These are the things that you will want to do. First use a coat hange to unlatch door. Since it is the lower oven that the latch is faulty it can cause both to not work properly. You will want to check the latch assembly, Check the latch arm pivot joint, arm/solenoid connection, solenoid spring, and spring washer. Check the latch solenoid, Check for firm electrical connections. Disconnect the two wires from the solenoid and measure the resistance of the solenoid. A small resistance (approx 175 ohms) is normal. If the solenoid is open (infinite ohms) or shorted (0 ohms) it should be replaced. Check the latch switch. Disconnect it and use a continuity tester: Door latched = switch closed shoud read 0 ohms. Door unlatched switch open should read infinite. Check the door open closed switch. Disconnect it and use a continuity tester: Door open= switch closed should read 0 ohms and door closed = switch open should read infinite. Check power and element connections. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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1 Answer

Hello BELLOTI. You need to check and see if the unit has a direct short somewhere. If it continues to trip the breaker and no wires are shorted, you will need to replace the control board 4453661 in the unit. The control board has been permanently discontinued by the manufacturer and we don't know of any source or replacement for the part.

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1 Answer

Hello Cap, The thermo fuse should show zero resistance, just like touching the test meter leads directly to one another. If you showed no continuity, this part is bad.

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Arnon for Model Number Kebc208kss02

Can you please clarify the process of replacing the ap3777386 fuse? The female insulted terminal is self explanatory. What am I to do on the other end? Do I need to cut the black wire and strip it back for the new fuse? Does that end need soldering or crimping to the black wire? As it is right now, the old fuse is attached extremely securely to the black wire back to the control board. Also, why isn't this fuse shown on the exploded diagrams? Does Kitchenaid just expect people to buy a whole new control board instead of this repair?

1 Answer

Hello Arnon. You will remove the terminal end of the fuse WP4456654 from the connector and clip the new fuse into the connector on the control board. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Hello Tom. You will need to check and make sure all of the old fuse is removed from the connector. If so, you will insert the new fuse into the connector. Be careful not to break it. There is no special tools needed for this repair. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Hi Mike, You will need to check and see if the rear cooling fan is working and the door is sealing properly. If the fan is not working properly the unit will over heat and blow the fuse. Also if the door is not sealing properly, it will draw in room air and blow the fuse as well. Hope this helps. Hope this helps!

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