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Customer Questions and Answers for Thermal Fuse by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM21675663
Manufacturer Part Number: W11707984

This is a thermal safety fuse that opens the circuit if temperatures rise beyond a safe limit, protecting the appliance from overheating and preventing further damage. Replacing a failed fuse restores power to the affected circuit once the underlying cause is addressed.

  • Monitors temperature in a protected circuit and cuts power if unsafe heat is detected
  • Helps prevent overheating-related damage
  • Typical failure signs: no power/no operation, cycle won't start, shuts off mid-cycle after overheating event
  • Must not be bypassed; replace if open and investigate the root cause of overheating
What's included: 1 thermal fuse Installation notes:
  • Unplug appliance or disconnect power before service
  • Verify the fuse is open with a multimeter; replace only after correcting any airflow/overheating issues
  • Install in the same orientation and location as the original to ensure proper temperature sensing
  • Handle wiring carefully; transfer connectors one at a time to avoid miswiring

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Thermal Fuse (Part Number: OEM21675663)

1 Answer

Hello Earl, there are a number of possible causes for no heat, an open fuse would cut the power to the microwave completely. To find the root cause would require step by step testing with a multimeter, a schematic and a basic knowledge of electrical/microwave operation.

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1 Answer

Tom, if there is a beep prior to the microwave stopping, the failure would be in the keypad W11219784. If the heat and the turntable stop but the timer still counts down, the failure is in the relay control W11443147. If there is not a beep and the microwave stops as if the cycle has been canceled, the user HMI control W11443148 is the likely cause of failure.

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1 Answer

Christopher, If you remove the air grill at the top, there will be a screw behind it that holds the control panel in place. Once you have the screw removed then lift the control panel and behind it, there should be a fuse. This fuse will most likely be blown and if it is then it will need to be replaced and the door switches will need to be tested to make sure that they are good.

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1 Answer

Ozzie, with the power cord unplugged, the fuse, door switches, and cavity thermostat will need to be tested for proper operation through continuity. The fuse W11707984 and cavity thermostat W10269232 should read continuity. The microswitches will need to be tested when the door is closed and opened. When the door is open, the primary W10727360 (switch at the top farthest from the control) and secondary W10269460 (bottom switch) switches should read open continuity and the monitor W10269458 switch (switch at top closest to the control) should read closed continuity. With the door closed, the primary and secondary switches will read closed and the monitor switch will read open. If any of these fail, they will need to be replaced. If these check good, then the noise filter board WPW10452535 would need to be tested for incoming and outgoing voltage once everything is plugged back in and the power cord is plugged into an outlet. The board should have 120VAC from the power cord, and 120VAC exiting to the main control. If 120VAc is leaving the filter board and going to the main control, then the main control WPW10476501 has failed.

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1 Answer

Hello Jerry, the fuse should be located on the noise filters, the power cord is connected to this board. Hope this helps!

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Russ S. for Model Number WMH1163XVQ1

I have a whirlpool WMH1163XVQ1 that the bottom door latch got stuck . I got the latch open, but when I plugged it back in the breaker blow. I turned the breaker back on, the microwave came on, but when I opened the door, there was a pop and the microwave went dark. I thought the breaker trip again, but it was fine. I did some research and found out about the fuse in the unit, ordered a new one and put it in, and nothing happened after I plugged it back in. The microwave is still dark. Is there something else that would keep the unit from powering up?

1 Answer

Hello Russ, if the unit is acting like it's dead but it shows power in, the board on the unit could be the culprit. Thanks!

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1 Answer

Kelly, you would need a new keypad/control panel assembly, part 8185286, however the part has been discontinued by the manufacturer and is no longer available.

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1 Answer

Dave, If it blew a fuse the unit would be dead. However, you have voltage always sitting at one line so when you grounded it there is possibly a short and damaged the relay in the control. You should have 120 vac when the light is on or supposed to be on. No voltage and i would have to say the control would need replaced.

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1 Answer

Misty, If the fan is not working then you will want to make sure that the fan is getting power to it. If there is power to it then the fan is faulty and if there is not then the control board will be the issue.

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