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Customer Questions and Answers for Magnetron by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM20661468
Manufacturer Part Number: W11346197

The Magnetron is an OEM replacement part for Whirlpool microwaves. It is the main electronic component responsible for generating microwave energy for cooking and heating foods. 

Causes of a bad magnetron can include electrical issues such as power surges, overheating due to blocked ventilation, or internal component wear and tear over time.

Symptoms of a bad magnetron include:

  • The microwave not heating food
  • Unusual buzzing or humming noises during operation
  • A burning smell coming from the microwave
  • The microwave shutting down or failing to start

This OEM part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore microwave models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Magnetron (Part Number: OEM20661468)

1 Answer

Hello Gary. You most likely have a "high voltage" side malfunction. Transformer, diode, magnetron, Capacitor. You will need to be extremely careful if you decide to test the components with a multi meter, Very high residual voltage is present, so make sure you remove power to the microwave and short across the terminals on the capacitor. The magnetron should have a reading of less than 1 ohm resistance across the two terminals, and an "open" circuit between each terminal and chassis ground. The diode/rectifier should have a resistance reading in one direction only, no resistance, or resistance in both directions indicate a faulty diode. The primary winding on the trans former should read approximately 450 Ohms resistance, the secondary winding should read 80 ohms resistance, and the filament transformer should read 100 ohms resistance. If all the readings are proper and in range, replace the magnetron.

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1 Answer

Mark, We're sending you some information that will be more helpful. To test a magnetron tube once you've removed power and discharged the capacitor, disconnect the wires and check across the two terminals, you should have less than 1 ohm resistance, and check each terminal to the case, and there should be an "open" (infinite resistance)circuit. The diode/rectifier should read a "closed" circuit in one direction only No "closed" circuit in either direction or a resistance reading other than a closed circuit indicates a faulty diode.

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