Ryan September 09, 2021 for Model Number MDE7500AYW The model number is MDE7500AYW and serial number is 40554465z. What's the right motor? Your website shows 2 different motors for me WP33002795 and W10410997. Thanks.
1 Answer Ryan, Based on the information provided the part# for the motor for your machine is W10410997 Read More...
Giuseppe September 03, 2021 for Model Number MLE2000AYW Is there any way to know, without opening the appliance, whether I need W10410997 or WP33002795 as a replacement for the dryer motor for a Maytag MLE2000AYW serial number 91639644LA?
1 Answer Giuseppe, Thanks for the question!!! Your serial number says that you will need part number WP33002795 (which is WP33002795) for the correct replacement motor. Read More...
Ed November 23, 2020 for Model Number MDE5500AYW I have a roaring sound. I have changed the drum rollers and tension pulley roller. This did not help. I think it maybe the motor. when I had the belt off, I would turn the shaft and it would sqeauk. if you think it is the motor, what part number will I need?
1 Answer Hello Ed, from your checks the drive motor is worn, however, there were 2 different motors that were used in your model, if you would repost your question with the model and serial number we will be able to locate the correct part for you. Read More...
Rod In Nv October 05, 2019 for Model Number MDE5500AYQ My drive motor shaft has a thread on the end to thread the blower fan onto. The pictures of the replacement part motor appears to to have a D-shaft, as does the motor being replaced in the video. How do I insure I get the motor with the threaded end and not the D-shaft? thanks.
1 Answer Rod, The difference may be in the serial number of the unit. If the first 2 numbers of the serial number fall between 10 and 40 then you would use part number W10410997 and if the first 2 digits are 41 and higher then the correct part number will be WP33002795 which has threads for the blower wheel. Read More...
Dain May 25, 2019 for Model Number MDE9606AYW Our Maytag Dryer is 19 years old and has been doing great until now. Two symptoms; first the dryer will be working fine but in later stages of drying it will begin making noises and stop. If we wait several minutes we can start it back up. The second symptom which may be related. Whenever we push the start button a humming or buzzing noise comes from the area where the motor is and the dryer will begin operating normally within a second or two. I'm thinking the motor is the problem but would like for the Pro to help analyze this.
1 Answer Dain, It does sound like the motor is giving you issues and a sign that it will soon fail. W10410997 Read More...
Dan May 09, 2019 for Model Number MDE5500AYW Hello, Tried asking this question a half hour or so ago and haven't noticed it show up on your site yet. So I'm gonna try again. Please forgive me if it's delayed in posting and posted twice. I asked about jumping the door switch for testing earlier (overnight, you guys already answered). I tried doing that, and the dryer is still giving me a DO message on the control panel. I'm at a loss as to what I might have done while taking it apart and putting it back together that might have messed something up. I'm guessing my next course of action is to follow the red wires and the white wire from the switch to see what they connect to and make sure one of them has not come disconnected at the other end? If it's not the switch, what's another part that could be at fault? Thanks again!
1 Answer Dan, you will want to test the red wire at the door switch to the red wire at connection BB2 of the main control for continuity. If the wire has continuity, then the main control [33003028] has failed. Unfortunately if the control has failed, it is a discontinued part and is no longer available. Read More...
Dan May 09, 2019 for Model Number MDE5500AYW Hello again. I did just try jumping the door switch. Still no glory. I can't imagine what I could have done to it in the process of taking it apart and putting it back together! If not the door switch, would could be causing the DO message and the lack of operation? Is there anything else I can check? My first instinct is to follow the red and white wires to see where they go, and make sure that neither of them have come loose in the process. Am I on the right track? Would that terminal that came loose from the heating element possibly cause the DO message if the connection was not great? I pinched the terminals closed a little bit with some pliers, hoping that the connection would be good again, but I tried jiggling it and it's still slightly loose. Thanks again so much for your help.
1 Answer Dan, If you have an issue of the unit not running the heater terminals would not cause an issue. In order for the unit to run the motor relay on the control, the board would need to close and send 120 volts ac thru 2 thermal fuses and into the motor and returns thru the door switch. The motor relay on the control is RL1 and is connector BB1 on the control pin 2 which is a grey wire. Test at that point with the white wire on your control for 120 volts while the motor should be running. If you have voltage present then test the thermal fuses. Also make sure the door is not bent and not allowing the door switch to close. Read More...
Dan May 09, 2019 for Model Number MDE5500AYW Our dryer has been making a clunking sound for the last week or so. Today, the heat stopped in it. I opened the dryer up and found that, as suspected, the rollers on the back of the unit are coming apart. I went to check the continuity on the heating element and noticed the wire on the left side bottom had come off (I guess from all the vibration from the failing rollers). So I pinched the connector slightly so it would again fit snug on the element and re-connected it. I put the dryer back together figuring I'd go ahead and order some replacement rollers for it, but hoping to go ahead and dry these two loads that need drying. But when I put the dryer back together and plugged it in, it's now giving me a door open code on the control panel. I pulled the door switch and checked that it was operating. It was. At this point, I'm at a loss what to check next. Should I try bypassing the switch by wiring the white and the two red wires together? I'm not sure what iI could have done to it that would have caused this to happen. It was working fine before I took it apart (aside from the heat and the clunking, lol).
1 Answer Dan,yes you can jump out the door switch for testing only,at the door switch the white wire to the two red wires,the door switch part is W10169313 if needed. Read More...
Charles October 28, 2018 for Model Number MDE3000AYW The dark blue plastic washer? on the motor side of the belt drive pulley has failed. Are parts available for the motor? I really don't want to have to replace the whole motor.
1 Answer Hello Charles, the blue plastic washer is only available with the drive motor assembly part number W10410997. Thanks! Read More...
Eric November 27, 2017 for Model Number MDE8416AYW 1.5 days and 3+ hours on the phone, without success, trying to solve heating element not working. For starters I replaced: - heating element WP307178 AP6007565 - heating element comes with this fuse AP6007570 - Hi limit thermostat WP303396 AP6007530 - Fuse on blower area WP33001762 AP6007940 Assembled and none of those solved problem. So instead of ordering the Cycling thermostat AP6007567, I decided to check it first. Called 1st CSR. Per CSR and his supporting tech, resistance and continuity were good on cycling thermostat. 1st CSR instructed to test voltage on either side of the new heating element and voltage across (all while running drying). Hung up, disassembled and tested. Each side (terminals at actual element) receives 120 volts when circuit energized (dryer set to timed drying, started, drive motor & drum turning). When running any cycle, any temp setting there is no voltage at the element terminals. Receiving 120 each side, but something stops circuit completing. Called 2nd CSR. instructed to test the sensor bar and was told that was likely failed component. CSR sent a service manual for 9700 series (not 8400) to disassemble and test sensor bar. After disassemble, more disassemble and comparing website to my drying, it was clear my model DOES NOT have a sensor bar, despite website and CSR saying it does. That was 2 hours wasted trusting the website and the CSR. Called 3rd CSR. re-hashed everything, and sent photos showing no sensor bar. CSR confirmed. Was instructed to test timer switch for continuity. The CSR didn't know what continuity to test for. As CSR researched, I checked temperature switch. Continuity was correct. The CSR decided to move on. 3rd CSR Instructed to go to drive motor, remove wire harness connector, check resistance across the drive motor where blue black and yellow wires come out of the motor to the pin block - resistance between black and blue wires is 1.5ohms. It's supposed to be 2ohms per the MDE9700 service manual (there is no service manual for 8400 series). - the blue to yellow wire reads open, which is correct per 9700 service manual After 2.5hours with the 3rd CSR, the CSR ran out of ideas, so I checked voltage at terminal block. Across negative and L1 it read 120v. Across negative and L2 it read 45.5v. Reset breaker, no change. CSR didn't know significance of that. CSR out of ideas so we hung up. I turned to internet and found a manual for 2000 series, 3000 series and 9000 series. I returned to motor drive. Manual instructed to test drive motor by depressing the centrifugal switch and testing resistance of the blue, black and yellow wires coming out of the drive motor. - resistance between blue & black is 2.8ohm, per manual it's 3.0 - resistance between blue and yellow is 3ohm, per manual its 2.25 Manual instructed to test centrifugal switch. Per work with CSR 3, with switch NOT depressed circuit should be open and it was. Per this manual, with switch DEPRESSED, there should be continuity and there was. I'm out of ideas. What I do know is this is NOT a complex dryer and all core components except start switch and temp switch are available. This means it's a solvable problem. After 3 CSR "pros" and the website, it remains to be solved. This of course is not very impressive performance from appliancepartspros for such a simple dryer. I still believe it's solvable but I need a real tech to help me here.
1 Answer Hello Eric. Lets back up to your voltage test at the terminal block. You said L1 and neutral have 120, but L2 and neutral only have 45.5 VAC? If this is the case, then you have found your issue. You must have 120 VAC on both the L1 and L2 lines for the dryer to heat. You either have a wiring problem in your home, a bad breaker, or a bad power cord to the dryer. Also, when you do the voltage test at the heater, the wires coming to the heater must be unplugged from the heater or you will read through the heater. Read More...