Michael March 06, 2013 for Model Number EL5030VW0 You answered my question about my dryer it works fine on timed dry as I have heat & it dries clothes and turns off, however, on auto-sense it has heat, it drys clothes, but the dial does not move. It just keeps running. The dial won't advance to off. You said to, it could be the resister part #279872, however, under the compatable section it says this part is not compatable with my dryer. Can I use it anyway?
1 Answer Hello Michael, This is an issue of air flow. You need to check the entire exhaust duct for clogs and crimps. When the unit cannot exhaust the moist air, it is blown past the drum seals and released directly back into the cabinet. This makes the sensors continue to pick up the moisture and the timer will not advance. The duct should also be as short as possible. To verify that this is correct information, remove the exhaust duct and turn the unit on, on an auto-dry setting. Within about 5 minutes, you will be able to tell that the timer has begun to advance. As far as the resistor 279872 goes, it can be at fault, but if you test it with a resistance meter set to the proper scale to read up to 5000O, (or 5KO.....same thing), This resistor should give a reading between 4050O and 4950O. If the reading you get is between these readings, the issue is the exhaust duct. And, by the way, this resistor is the satisfactory substitution as recommended by the manufacturer. Our compatibility tool does not always recognize crossed or substituted parts. Read More...
Tw November 26, 2012 for Model Number 110.60202990 Which switch are you referring to? The heat choices for: high , low, and air fluff are all included on the timer. Hope that is not what you meant.
1 Answer Hello TW. Yes, that is the switch. If the heat is made into the timer, you will need to replace the timer if the heater is good. Read More...
Tw November 26, 2012 for Model Number 110.60202990 Dryer works fine on high heat....while drawing approx 26 amps using amp probe on the black incoming line with an available voltage,of 240. However the heating element continues to glow orange red when I switch to medium heat or no heat (air fluff ) I checked the bias thermostat for continuity and it is not open. Perhaps I'm not checking it correctly or there's is another item at fault.
1 Answer Hello TW. If the heater glows on air fluff, either the switch is bad, or the heater is grounded and will need to be replaced. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Ashley H July 30, 2012 for Model Number 11086873100 WHRE TO INSTALL THIS RESISTOR--I HAVE THE PART ALREADY TYVM
1 Answer Ashley, The resistor you listed attaches to two terminals on the dryer timer 696876. You'll need to remove the console back panel to access the timer and replace the part. The resistor is usually installed or attached on the TM terminal and the OR or Rd heater termials on the timer. It'll be easy to determine, once you have access to the timer. Thanks Read More...
Eli V. March 11, 2012 for Model Number le9380xtwo Hi the timer will run part cycle then stops. Can not find the resistor. Where is the resistor on this model? Is it on the timer?
1 Answer Hello Eli. The resistor 279872 is located inside the control panel of the unit. You will need to access the inside and look for the resistor. It is a part of the wiring harness of the unit. Hope this helps. Read More...
Carl February 21, 2012 for Model Number LER7648KQ0 Dryer heats ok, but doesn't dry clothes! Little or no lint on lint screen. Dryer vent clear from dryer to roof top. Get moisture & lint on door after a drying cycle, but clothes not dry! Have to run dryer 2-3 times before clothes get dry (running up my electric bill like crazy)...Since it heats, I suspect my Thermal fuse is ok....How about the "Humidity" fuse? What say you. Sincerely, Carl Las Cruces, NM p.s. Req an answer asap....
1 Answer Hi Carl. It sounds like you done your checks mostly. The old saying is that with moisture on the door, and all your explanations lead to a definite restriction. If everything is clear then you need to check when the unit is pushed back into place. You know, in the "natural" position. General rule of thumb is that you do not need any more length of vent behind the dryer that is required to have when you pull it out one length. If you get another person to use a broom handle end and gently curve the metal flex-duct as the other person pushes the unit back. So now it is not kinked. When there is a kink or a restriction, then the heat and moisture will not be released to the outer atmosphere. Then it gets held back. The internal components prematurely fail. The heating element is now white hot instead of red hot. Expanding the heater coils and shorting them out or as they expand and contract, they eventually break. Thermal cut out fuses open as a safety issue. Over and over until the vent issue is corrected. Plastic vents w/sags, lint back up causes upwards of 20,000 house fires a year. Is the lint tray housing clean ? Is the blower wheel turning up to speed ? Do you hear any rattling ? Blower wheel part # WP694089. The digital volt/ohm meter is part # WB27T10549. Make sure the terminal block wires are tight. Are you getting 240 vac from the house breaker? You need to make sure you have 120 vac between the center post (neutral) and the outer 2- legs respectively (each). Linteater kit part # TJRLE202. Crevice wand part # 8171579A. Thank You. -- Read More...
Larry H. January 07, 2012 for Model Number rel3636awo All the electronic parts associated with my roper dryer (element, cycline thermostat, high temp sensor,temp therm fuse, switch)have continuity, however my dryer element refuses to heat up at all. What am I missing ? I have replaced the element with a new one, same result. I have checked all the sensors electrictrically as well as heat sensitive one with heat. Im stumped.
1 Answer Hi Larry. Your model has a resister in line from the orange wire at the timer going to the heater. Check it for 4050-4950 Ohms. If it is without 10% of the value then replace it. Part # 279872. Then you need to check the Red wire at the motor while running to see if it has 120 vac output. This is the supply voltage from the motor centrifugal switch inside the motor. If not it is part # 279827. You have a wiring diagram in behind the timer area to assist you. Thank You. Read More...
Larry H. January 07, 2012 for Model Number rel3636awo Could a bad resister cause the dryer element to not heat up at all?
1 Answer Hello Larry. Yes, if the resistor 279872 is bad it can cause the element not to heat. Hope this helps. Read More...
Hilton November 11, 2011 for Model Number 110.96478100 Dryer runs and advances but does not stop at end of cycle. If the door is opened it stops and can be restarted with the start button.
1 Answer Hello Hilton. If the dryer runs and does not shut off on off, you will need to replace the timer WP3398190. Hope this helps. Read More...
Henry November 01, 2011 for Model Number TEDL600wno The timer does not advance and the heating element will not come on. The drum turns OK. All circuit breakers check OK. What parts do I possibly need to replace?
1 Answer Hello Henry. Check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. Check and make sure the unit is not set to Air Fluff. Also check the heater WP4391960 and thermal fuses [AP3094224 and see if they are good. You can test these with a multi-meter MA-DM1. They should read closed for continuity. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...