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Customer Questions and Answers for Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18015663
Manufacturer Part Number: WP10442411

Frost buildup on freezer wall or evaporator coils? This defrost thermostat triggers the defrost cycle to prevent ice accumulation. DIY-friendly repair.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat (Part Number: OEM18015663)

1 Answer

Hello Ken. You will need to use hot water and blow it through the pipe to clear any blockage inside the pipe.

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Mickey for Model Number Amana BRD 18V 2S

The first thermostat, WP10442411, I got from you tested 56K Ohms both cold and warm. The replacement tests 56K or 55K Ohms, (using three different meters), when warm, and 0 Ohms when cold. I expected that it should have tested "Open" rather than 56K Ohms, when warm. I need to know if this is correct, before I install it. By the way, the heater tests 34.7 Ohms, is this as it should be?

1 Answer

Hello Mickey, The open resistance is a bit beside the point. You see, when it opens, it is doing so because the evaporator compartment has reached 50°F or so and if the heater didn't cool down at this point, food would defrost and cause spoilage. Many defrost thermostats open to a high resistance to prevent the water from the melting frost from freezing on its' way to the defrost drain. It should read 0O resistance when cold so the heater will receive full voltage for the defrost cycle to proceed normally. The heating element resistance is normal also.

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1 Answer

Mat, There should be no " trails off slowly" it should have an either "open" or "closed" circuit. With the thermostat out of the unit, and at room temp, your meter should indicate an "open" circuit. If you put the assembly into a glass of ice water, wait a couple of minutes, then test it, it should have a "closed" circuit. If you have a "trailing off" scenario, you'd have to presume the thermostat is faulty. Thanks

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1 Answer

Hello David, Yes sir, unfortunately it will cost more to repair than it is worth as there are enough old parts on it that can fail that it is a much better investment to buy new than to fix the old one. The cost on this type repair can easily exceed $700.00 depending on the service company that completes the repair. You cannot legally repair a sealed system unless you hold a freon certification.

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David for Model Number DRB2101AW

My Amana bottom freezer has been cooling marginally for quite awhile, but now the freezer won't get below 26 degrees. There is no ice produced while the refrigerator compartment stays at about 40 degrees (no matter where the upper control knob is set). All fans are running up-to-speed, the compressor is running constantly with no clicking on and off. I removed the inside-back of the freezer compartment and found some ice (not alot) on the refrigerant line opposite to the one the defrost thermostat is clipped to. I'm not sure if that's normal. Also, I noted the defrost timer seems to work; I can turn the dial and force the system into a defrost cycle (at least it'll turn all fans, compressor, etc., off). I changed out the defrost thermostat, but that didn't help. I'm considering a new temp control part, but have my doubts about that being the issue. Could the unit simply be low on refrigerant? I'm at a loss. Thanks.

1 Answer

Hello David, The ice you noticed in the evaporator area should not form like this. When the system is running normally, the frost will cover the coils almost evenly. When there's an ice ball it points to a loss of freon. Since you have to be freon certified to perform this type of repair legally, it is usually not a financially feasible repair. Be aware also that when a unit has lost freon, it is against the law to "shoot" more in it without finding and correcting the leak. Otherwise it's considered to be the same as releasing freon directly into the atmosphere.

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1 Answer

Pete, You'll need to remove the back wall of the freezer compartment and check the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat, mounted to the top of the evaporator WP10428409 and WP10442411 , the heater should be a "closed" circuit, under any circumstance, and the defrost thermostat should be a closed circuit under 40 dgrs.F. (a glass of ice wter works well) when testing with a multimeter. If these parts produce the proper reading, the problem would be in the defrost timer R0131577 located behind the lower kickplate / grille on the front bottom of the refrigerator. Here's some helpful information for meter usage, should you need it. [http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html] Thanks and Good Luck.

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1 Answer

Hello Mark. You can test the heater and thermostat when they are cold. They should read closed for continuity. You can test these with a multi-meter MA-DM1. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Do you see any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer? If so you could have a defrost problem. Also check and make sure your fan is running inside the freezer.

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