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Customer Questions and Answers for Defrost Thermostat by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18031077
Manufacturer Part Number: WP67003426

The Defrost Thermostat is an OEM part for Whirlpool refrigerators. It monitors the temperature of the evaporator coil and signals the defrost heater to turn on when necessary, preventing frost buildup on the coil.

You should replace the defrost thermostat if it becomes faulty or damaged. Causes of a bad defrost thermostat can include electrical issues, exposure to moisture, or general wear and tear over time.

Symptoms of a bad defrost thermostat include:

  • Frost buildup on the evaporator coil
  • The refrigerator running constantly or not cooling properly
  • Water leaks inside the refrigerator
  • The defrost heater not activating during the defrost cycle

This OEM part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Defrost Thermostat (Part Number: OEM18031077)

1 Answer

Hello Justin. You are saying that the fans are running. Check if the compressor is running too. If it's running, you have a sealed system problem and need a licensed professional to look at it. If the compressor is trying to kick in making a click sound every few minutes, then you should try to replace the start relay/overload assembly p/n AP6016830. Good luck.

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1 Answer

Khanh, the defrost thermostat would be a part of the wiring harness W11260592. However, the resistance reading that was measured is within tolerance for that part. The defrost heater can be checked for resistance and should measure 33 ohms +/- 5%. The only other item that would be part of the heating circuit would be the jazz board (main control board) WPW10503278.

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Robert for Model Number ABB2221FEB

Unit was building up frost on back of freezer, unable to maintain proper temperatures in refrigerator or freezer. Pulled freezer panel and saw ice buildup on upper 1/3 portion of evaporator coil and the thermostat was completely iced over. Replaced thermostat after melting all the ice. Noticed black oily like substance on the back of the vent cover and inside the area by the fan. 12 hours after the repair the unit still isn't able to maintain proper fridge and freezer temperatures and I noticed condensation on the back panel after 24 hours. What else could possibly be wrong with the fridge? It's able to cycle itself on and off defrost, and the freezer control appears to work (unit shuts off when freezer is off)

1 Answer

Robert, With there only being 1/3 of the evaporator having frost on it and making sure that the fan is running then this would most likely be a sealed system issue and would need to have service.

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1 Answer

Tim, You will want to check the defrost thermostat and heater to make sure that they have continuity. If they both check ok then the issue will be with the control board in the refrigerator compartment. The part number for the board is 36433222.

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Trevor for Model Number Kenmore Elite Trio Refrigerator 596.73503200

Is there any way to initiate a defrost cycle if the adaptive control board on my 2003 Kenmore Elite Trio refrigerator is faulty? The compressor is working well, but the freezer builds up to much frost over a couple days and the defrost never happens. After reading a slew of posts, I ran a resistance test on the heating element and it showed 28 ohms which is perfect. I also ran the bimetal (thermostat) continuity test but didn't understand that this model had to be all the way down to 15 degree Fahrenheit. I had the item in a cup of ice water for roughly 10 minutes and found no continuity. I mail ordered a new t-stat and found that the new one was no different. Not surprisingly, installing the new one made no difference. So, now I am faced with replacing the pricier Adaptive Control Board and wonder if there is any test I can run to make sure it is bad. Currently, try as I may I can't successfully run either of the two approaches to manual defrosting approaches shown below. Might that actually be a sign that the board is bad? Thanks in advance for any help you can provide. Regards, Trevor in Austin OPTION #1 (BI-METAL CLOSED) 1) POWER OFF TO REFRIGERATOR FOR AT LEAST 30 SECONDS 2) THERMOSTAT OFF 3) POWER ON TO REFRIGERATOR OPTION #2 (BI-METAL CLOSED) 1) THERMOSTAT OFF 15 SECONDS 2) THERMOSTAT ON 5 SECONDS (REPEAT STEPS 1 & 2 TWO MORE TIMES) 3) THERMOSTAT OFF

1 Answer

Steve, At room temperature the defrost thermostat should read open. It will not read closed until the part gets to about 15 degrees.

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1 Answer

Spaid, You will want to open the rear wall of the freezer and check the frost pattern on the evaporator. If the coils are impacted by ice then you will want to test the defrost thermostat for continuity. If no continuity when sitting in the ice then the part is bad and needs to be replaced. If the thermostat has continuity then it is good. Then test the defrost heater for continuity. If there is continuity then it is good. If both check ok then the issue will be with the defrost control.

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1 Answer

Hello Meldan. Either it was not cold enough or the meter was not set right. Must stay on the ice, with just enough water to cover the thermostat for at least 15 minutes before testing.

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Dave C for Model Number Ammana afd2535deb

Month or two ago, fridge got warm - lost contents. Noticed freezer was extra cool & vents at rear were frosted / iced over. Used heat gun to melt ice at back of freezer - appears fridge & freezer then operated normally. Fridge again became warm - some minor freezer ice was noted in vent area at lower back area of freezer. Pulled back cover - evaporator coils were frosted / iced over. Used heat gun to melt ice & defrost freezer area. Suspect defrost thermostat - any test or opinion on my problem?

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