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Customer Questions and Answers for High Limit Thermostat by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18050235
Manufacturer Part Number: WPW10195091

The High Limit Thermostat is an OEM part for Whirlpool dishwashers. It is a safety device that monitors the temperature inside the dishwasher and cuts off power to the heating element if the water temperature exceeds safe levels, preventing overheating and potential damage.

Causes of a bad high limit thermostat can include normal wear and tear, exposure to high temperatures, or electrical faults. A faulty thermostat can prevent the dishwasher from heating water correctly, affecting the cleaning performance.

Symptoms of a bad high limit thermostat include:

  • Dishwasher not drying dishes properly
  • Dishwasher not completing cycles
  • Water not heating up during cycles
  • Error codes related to temperature issues

This OEM part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool High Limit Thermostat (Part Number: OEM18050235)

Patrick for Model Number KDTM354DSS5

I am having trouble with my KitchenAid KTDM354DSS5. My control panel has power and appears to work fine, but the dishwasher does not do anything when running a wash cycle or running tests. When running diagnostics, I receive the following codes in this order: 8-2, 6-4, 9-1, and 6-1. I do hear clicks on the control board when the diagnostics are running and when running a dishwasher cycle (though the rest of the dishwasher is silently not working). I have hooked up power directly to the main pump, drain pump, and diverter motor and they all work fine. I've tested continuity on the float switch and it works well and behaves as expected when I lift the float. I've replaced the water inlet valve which did not correct the issue. The control board appears fine with only some black burn marks in and around P4-2. The F9 fuse passes a continuity check, however, I don't have an ohm meter. The water line and drains do not show any signs of blockage. Before it stopped working, it seemed to be sitting idle a lot when the display said "Washing", which makes me wonder if the problem has been slowly evolving. Any idea? Your assistance is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

1 Answer

Patrick, Based on the overall description of the issue, it sounds as if you have a control issue. Using your tech sheet packaged with the machine and a multimeter check for power out to the various components when they should be running.

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1 Answer

Hello Longbchbillm, this may be due to the OWI (Optical Wash Indicator sensor) being faulty or a problem with the wire harness going to it, WPW10705575.

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1 Answer

Paul, Ensure that there is 120 vac getting to the control board and if there is then the control board will be the most likely cause for this issue.

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1 Answer

Brian, The high-limit thermostat will show closed for continuity at room temp and once the temperature rises to a certain point it would open.

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1 Answer

John, This is a thermostat that acts as a switch. This means it should have continuity when good. Zero ohms would be a good reading for continuity. This shows the circuit is closed.

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1 Answer

Neil, with the power supply unplugged, the heater W10703867 and sensor WPW10705575 would need to be tested from the control W10866118. The sensor would be tested for 46K Ohms to 62K Ohms at room temperature from the yellow wires at the connector P12 pin 1 to pin 3. If the sensor fails, it would need to be replaced. If it tests good, the heater would be tested using the blue wires with white stripes located on the right side of the control. The wires would need to be tested for continuity to the metal frame. If there is continuity, a wire or the heater has grounded out and it would need to be identified which one is the cause by testing the heater directly for continuity to ground. If the heater has continuity, it would need to be replaced. If there was not continuity from the wires at the control, the heater would need to be tested for resistance and it should measure around 24 Ohms. If it does not measure within 4 Ohms difference, the heater would be the likely cause of failure. If it does measure within range, the control would be the likely cause of failure.

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1 Answer

David, There is not a thermal switch and this would most likely be an issue with the control board. It would be recommended to check the junction box where the supply wire comes in and see if it has a good connection.

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1 Answer

Brent, as the parts within the heating circuit have already been replaced, it sounds like the main control W10875437 is allowing the element to overheat. The main control causing the element to overheat will trip the hi-limit thermostat which will need to cool down to 205°F, thereby affecting the cleaning of the dishes.

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1 Answer

Rohan, If the thermostat read open then this will be the cause of the unit not heating.

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John for Model Number KDTE104EWH0

Dishwasher in normal wash mode fills with water sits there for a short time makes some clicks and sometimes sounds like it is draining and hangs. Lights say washing, but nothing is really happening and will sit there all day. In express wash the system works correctly and goes through all cycles. Washer is steamy at end of wash cycle. Running diagnostics does NOT return any error codes. I have cut power to reset, run diags again and still not codes are reported after it goes through all the test cycles. Any idea?

1 Answer

John, You will want to check to see if there is 120 Vac going to the wash motor at the time that it is supposed to be running but not. If there is not 120 Vac then the issue will be with the main control board.

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