Jerald F Laud Lakes , FL April 05, 2015 Appliance: Whirlpool Washer LSR7233EQ0 Whirlpool lsr7233eq0 washing machine was leaking out the bottom I had previously replaced the pump about 1 year ago. That was not the problem. Still leaked the same way - intermittently, but always in the center of the washer onto the floor. None of the hoses were leaking - no evidence of corrosion or water mineral residue at any of the hose fittings. So, it must have been something else. I studied the parts diagram for the washer tub assembly and concluded the source of the leak almost had to be the outer tub's Centerpost Gasket. It was really the only part left that came in direct contact with water in the otherwise sealed outer tub. Gonna backtrack a little here... When I was checking for leaks before and after I swapped out the pump (about 1-1/2 years ago), I noticed the rear lower frame of the machine was almost totally rusted out and the Suspension Spring was was about to rust through also. I had some 2" angle aluminum in my garage, so I cut a section of that about the width of the machine and pop-riveted it to the machine back panel with the angle facing inward. That did the trick and completely reinforced that lower section of the washer. It also gave me solid metal to drill a new hole for the suspension spring. The point here is not the innovative repair - the point is that the machine had been leaking for a long time and rusted out the lower rear frame and suspension spring! (The actual visible water on the concrete floor only manifested itself about a year and a half ago, but based on the extensive rust, it had to have been leaking much longer than that.) Back to fixing the leak...I ordered the parts from Appliance Parts Pros. (I rebuilt the agitator section too, with a new Medium Cam Agitator Repair Kit. This had nothing to do with the leak, but since I was taking the whole thing apart anyway...) The main components I ordered for the leak were the Centerpost Gasket and Spanner Wrench. I also ordered a new Suspension Spring because the old one was just about rusted through. I followed some instructional videos on how to remove the inner basket from the outer tub. The spanner wrench was an absolute necessity. Once I got the inner tub out, I removed the old style filter on the bottom of the inner tub and cleaned it up thoroughly. (I replaced the old style filter with the new Washer Filter Plug Kit - four small plastic filters that fit in the four large holes in the inner tub. The holes were a little too large for the plugs to stay snug, so I super-glued them in.) I then removed the outer tub by sliding it up the centerpost. Cleaned it up thoroughly also. That's when I noticed the triangular frame to which the motor/transmission assembly was attached was rusting severely at each of its three corners. One corner had rusted through. This is evidence of a Centerpost Gasket leak, as all this rust was above the water pump. In order to curtail any more rusting on the triangular frame, I knocked out all of the loose rust and scrapped the rest of it to remove as much rust as possible. In each of the three corners, there is a downward-facing "bowl" in the metal frame where the support posts extend upward. These "bowls" had been collecting water for years, hence the extensive rust. To combat the rust and prevent any further rust I heated up the hot glue gun and I must have used (5) 12-inch sticks of hot glue to fill in the bowls, cover up all the rust, and actually made them convex so water will run outward and not get trapped if it ever leaks again. Whew! I then used 0000 steel wool on the centerpost to remove some minor corrosion so the new gasket would seal. I placed a small amount of silicon grease on the centerpost where the gasket will seat. I then pressed the new gasket into the outer tub and applied silicon grease on the inside so it would slide into place without sticking on the way down (about 12 inches). I seated the tub and secured it. I installed the new Suspension Spring. I reinstalled the inner tub and cinched it down snugly with the spanner wrench. Reinstalled the newly rebuilt agitator and snugged down its retaining bolt. Reinstalled the washer body and set the spring clips. Hooked up the water and drain line and crossed my fingers. My wife did laundry the next day. No leaks. It's now been right at a month and many laundry loads later...no leaks!!! Yay! Project took me about 5 hours including the hot gluing and extreme cleaning of all the parts. Read More... 742 People found this story helpful Do-It-Yourself Rating: Repair Time Estimate: 2+ hours Tools: Nut Drivers, Pliers, Screwdrivers, Socket Set, Wrench Set
Vincent B Merrick , NY January 31, 2016 Appliance: General Electric General Electric GTWN4250D0WS Ge washer was very loud during spin cycle After researching the problem on this site, I realized that the most likely cause was a bad bearing contained in the shaft & tube assembly. Essentially, the tub seal failed & allowed water to travel down the shaft & into the housing containing the bearing. I confirmed this by pulling the front cover off of the unit & noticed some brown water pooled directly under the shaft & tube assembly. I followed the disassembly instructions on this site & it wasn't too bad but did take some time as pretty much the entire machine has to be taken apart. This probably isn't for the beginner so take stock of your mechanical skills before attempting this repair! Once I removed the old shaft & tube assembly, I confirmed that this was in fact the culprit because it was making a grinding noise when turning the shaft. I replaced the tub bearing as well (it's actually a bushing), even though it probably wasn't necessary but I was in there already so what the heck. I also replaced the belt for the same reason. You should note that the shaft & tube assembly also includes a new tub seal (which isn't really made clear in the part description). This part is essential in preventing the water leak that caused the part failure in the first place. After replacing all parts, the machine was reassembled & tested. So far it's quiet during the spin cycle like new & no trace of water leaks. Thanks to this site & it's forums/videos as they were a huge help! The repair cost me $186.00 as opposed to $600 for a new machine so it was worth it. Read More... 492 People found this story helpful Do-It-Yourself Rating: Repair Time Estimate: 1-2 hours Tools: Nut Drivers, Screwdrivers, Socket Set
Gerald P Auburn , GA January 28, 2018 Appliance: General Electric Washer WHRE5550K2WW Ge washer making loud roaring noise during spin cyc;e I had never worked on a washing machine before but after watching the online videos I felt like I could do the repair. I was almost positive it was the Mode Shifter and Shaft Assembly that was bad. I could hear the bearing making a grinding noise when I turned the tub by hand. I ordered the part I needed plus additional parts that could be an issue later such as a drive belt, tub bearing, tub seal, tub nut, split ring, etc; Preventive maintenance that would keep from having to tear it all apart again if another part failed. Took photos with my phone and kept the repair video handy while I took everything apart. The only difficulties I had were getting the tub nut off and tub bearing out. After spraying the tub nut with WD40 and letting it soak for approx.. 30 minutes I finally got it broken loose. I used a tub spanner wrench that I ordered with the parts. I would not have been able to get it off without it. Videos showed prying the tub bearing out with two screwdrivers which as hard as I tried I could not do. I turned the tub over and used a socket the same diameter as the tub bearing and had to knock it out with a hammer which worked. I replaced all the parts which went smoothly and put it all back together with the use of the video and photos I took. The final result was the washer worked like a charm and the roaring noise during the spin cycle was now gone. It was a somewhat time consuming project but the outcome made it worthwhile. I would like to say that ordering the parts from AppliancePartsPros was very easy. Just search by model number for parts. I ordered the parts on Tuesday morning and they shipped the same day and arrived Thursday at lunch time. Very quick service. Repair up and running by Friday afternoon. Read More... 262 People found this story helpful Do-It-Yourself Rating: Repair Time Estimate: 2+ hours Tools: Nut Drivers, Pliers, Screwdrivers, Socket Set
Gabriel S Petaluma , CA March 15, 2015 Appliance: Maytag Top Loading Washer A112 Leakage from tub seal I ordered the tub seal and stem seal kits along with the much needed spanner wrench. After viewing the video online several times and taking notes along the way I was ready to tackle the repair. After taking everything apart, I cleaned all areas thoroughly then addressed the rusty areas and mineral deposits found in the tub. Soaking the tub in vinegar and baking soda overnight helped loosen the built up deposits enough so I could carefully scrape them off with a spatula. This was very time consuming. Next was to clean off the rust with a wire brush and 3M Scotch pad. Using Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator, I sprayed the treated areas, it acts as a rust inhibitor and top coat in one. Assembling the seals and associated parts was pretty straight forward but I had difficulty positioning the tubs top piece accurately since it was an older design utilizing the rubber seal with a metal band around it. Positioned too high, the top touches the lid, too low, it makes contact with the rotating inner tub. When doing the dry spin for 3 minutes to set the seals. There was a loud banging from the inner tub hitting the outer one. I took everything apart and found the outer tub to be out of round. After pressing and bending on all sides I finally got it as round as I could and reassembled everything. Now was the moment of truth. Now the washer functions as it should, no water leakage or banging noise. For me it was an ordeal as I never attempted this job before (and may never again). Just a word of caution handling the outer tub, be very careful not to bend it out of round otherwise you'll have a lot of anxiety with this job. Now it's martini time! Read More... 236 People found this story helpful Do-It-Yourself Rating: Repair Time Estimate: 2+ hours Tools: Pliers, Screwdrivers, Socket Set, Wrench Set
M David M Pittsburgh , PA March 17, 2016 Whirlpool washing machine wouldn't spin I ordered what I thought were the necessary parts from appliancepartspro.com as my washing machine wouldn't spin. I should have watched there videos before I began as I took the whole cabinet off and everything and after receiving the parts and watching their video realized I didn't need to do so, at that point in time. When I put the pieces back together I found that the tub was really stuck, it would move but for the most part it was hard to move and creating a horrible noise. I knew I had put the thing back correctly. I then decided I needed to replace the basket drive. The standard shipping ended up coming in the same amount of time as the express two day shipping had come from the first order. I looked up on the web about removing the basket because it just would not budget. I beat it like crazy, poured various lubricants and things like liquid wrench in the area and still couldn't get it to move. I ended up heating really hot with a heat gun and then had my wife come down and help me pull it up. The tub along with the drive block came off. I then took a sledge hammer and just dropped it down on the drive block and it popped out. It was rust frozen to the tub. So they say to just keep working and it will somehow come apart and they are right. Beating it didn't help but the heat did. Others heat didn't help but beating it did. It will eventually dislodge. So I replaced the drive basket and my machine runs like new. What is awesome with this site is that they don't just send you the parts. They email you the videos to watch as to how to remove the old and install the new part. This was so super helpful that I totally rebuilt my washing machine and it runs perfectly. I do the wash and didn't want one of the new machines that doesn't get your clothes clean. Now I have a washer that will run for another 20 years. This site is AWESOME and will be my go to site for appliance repairs in the future! Read More... 163 People found this story helpful Do-It-Yourself Rating: Repair Time Estimate: 30-60 minutes Tools: Screwdrivers, Socket Set