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Customer Questions and Answers for Evaporator Fan Motor Assembly by Ge

4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM13316436
Manufacturer Part Number: WR60X10307

The Evaporator Fan Motor Assembly is an OEM part for GE refrigerators. It plays a crucial role in circulating air over the evaporator coils, which helps maintain the proper temperature in both the refrigerator and freezer compartments. Used in side-by-side units, this motor includes a 2-wire thermistor in the harness. The assembly includes one Fan Motor with a 6-Pin Harness and Thermistor Assembly. The harness and plug measure 13-7/8" in length. 

Common causes of a bad fan motor include electrical issues, debris accumulation, or wear and tear over time. These issues can hinder the motor's ability to circulate air effectively, leading to temperature inconsistencies.

Symptoms of a bad evaporator fan motor assembly include:

  • Unusual noises coming from the refrigerator
  • Inconsistent or warm temperatures in the fridge or freezer
  • Frost buildup on the evaporator coils
  • The refrigerator running continuously without cycling off

This GE replacement part is also compatible with Hotpoint, RCA, and some Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Evaporator Fan Motor Assembly (Part Number: OEM13316436)

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Rodo for Model Number PSS26MSTASS

The freezer gets warm sometimes (every few months). The temperature reader goes up to about 10F or 11F (normal is 0F). There was frost inside the freezer (rear). The next day the freezer is at 0F and there are some frozen droplets inside (rear) the freezer. The fridge is fine. I tested the voltage at J2-3 and J2-4 for the evaporator motor (after leaving the freezer door open for 3 minutes). The voltage was zero until the compressor kicked on. Then it showed 2v, then after a few seconds it show 6v until it got to 12v or so. Will this be an evaporator motor or main board problem? Thanks

Answer

Rodo, Based on the voltage reading that you are getting it sounds like the motor and control are communicating and have the proper voltage. With frost being on the rear wall would sound more likely to be a defrost issue. You can check the defrost limiter to see if it has continuity. If it does not have continuity then you would not need to change it out. You will also want to check the defrost thermistor for resistance. The resistance values should be as follows, 42.5K at 0 degrees, 14.4k at 37 degrees and 5K ohms at 77 degrees. If not within range then it would need to be replaced. If it checks good then also check the defrost heater for continuity. If no continuity then replace and if good with continuity and all other components check ok then you would need a new main control board. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com   |   Tuesday, March 24, 2015

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