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Customer Questions and Answers for Evaporator Fan Motor Assembly by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM13316436
Manufacturer Part Number: WR60X10307

The Evaporator Fan Motor Assembly is an OEM part for GE refrigerators. It plays a crucial role in circulating air over the evaporator coils, which helps maintain the proper temperature in both the refrigerator and freezer compartments. Used in side-by-side units, this motor includes a 2-wire thermistor in the harness. The assembly includes one Fan Motor with a 6-Pin Harness and Thermistor Assembly. The harness and plug measure 13-7/8" in length. 

Common causes of a bad fan motor include electrical issues, debris accumulation, or wear and tear over time. These issues can hinder the motor's ability to circulate air effectively, leading to temperature inconsistencies.

Symptoms of a bad evaporator fan motor assembly include:

  • Unusual noises coming from the refrigerator
  • Inconsistent or warm temperatures in the fridge or freezer
  • Frost buildup on the evaporator coils
  • The refrigerator running continuously without cycling off

This GE replacement part is also compatible with Hotpoint, RCA, and some Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Evaporator Fan Motor Assembly (Part Number: OEM13316436)

Kevin for Model Number GE DSE25jshbcss. Part # WR60X10318

Hello, My question is regarding part # WR60X10318 ( evaporator fan motor), this is the part that went out on my refrigerator, causing my fridge and freezer to be about 15-20 degrees warmer then supposed to be (fridge 50 degrees and freezer 20 degrees). The replacement part I received is part # WR60X10307 both motors look identical both have white, blue, yellow & red wires (in this order) both motors are 9.75V and DC 3.25W but the connectors and the end of the wires are different, one is a 6 plug connector with a thermostat and the other is a 9 plug connector with a thermostat and another 3 wire pigtail. Because I have already been out of a refrigerator for 2 weeks now and don’t really want to wait another week for the correct part to arrive, can I cut the new motor out and splice it into the original wire harness. The fan propeller and fan mounting frame all fits correctly. I am so tempted to try. My question is, are the two motors interchangeable? Thank you for your time.

1 Answer

Kevin, These motors should be the same and splicing it should work. Just make sure that if you are using wire nuts to put a dab of silicone in the nut to keep moisture out.

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1 Answer

Marco, If there is no power to the fan then it would certainly be an issue with the control board. As for the icemaker not getting water, it certainly could be the board but would want to check to see if there is 120 vac to the water valve and if there is not proper power then the issue will be the board.

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1 Answer

Garnel, depending on the noise and the specific location, this could be anything. Commonly, a noise similar to a bubbling or light gurgling can be heard after the compressor stops operating, indicating the freon pressures balancing out which is normal.

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1 Answer

Guillermo, as the new fan is rotating excessively fast, the main control WR55X24347 would be the most likely cause of failure as it is supposed to pulse the voltage from 13.6 VDC to 9.75 VDC to regulate the fan speed.

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Maryshka for Model Number GSE23GGEBCBB

My freezer/refrigerator was thawing. I replaced the evaporator fan motor. Freezer/refrigerator was getting cold but not cold enough. Realized I did not clip the thirmoster to anything. Took everything apart again and clipped the thirmoster onto the silver pipe. Now freezer is getting cold but seem to be stalled at 15 degrees in the freezer and 40 degrees in the refrigerator. Does it matter if I clip the thirmoster to the silver pipe and not the copper pipe? I've watched a few videos and saw it clipped to both depending on the video. If it does matter, then that may be why the temperature isn't going any lower. If it doesn't matter, what should I try next?

1 Answer

Hello Maryshka, the thermistor that clips to the evap coil is only used in the defrost cycle, either location on the coil is acceptable.If the condenser fan,evap fan and compressor are running and the ref seems to run nonstop and the freezer cannot cool down below 15 deg then that may indicate a sealed system problem,

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1 Answer

Philco, it would be recommended that the evaporator is inspected for a heavy frost pattern. If there is a heavy enough frost pattern, it can cause the air flow to not be efficient. The thermistors WR55X10025 would need to be tested to identify if one has failed. The thermistors should measure around 12,500 Ohms at 42°F, 16,300 Ohms at 32°F, 21,000 Ohms at 23°F, and 27600 Ohms at 14°F. The thermistors can be tested from the main control using the wires at connection J1 once the power supply cord has been unplugged. From the brown wire at pin 5, the refrigerator can be tested using the white wire at pin 1, the freezer thermistor using the white wire at pin 3, and the evaporator thermistor using the white wire at pin 4.

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1 Answer

James, if the fan motor WR60X10307 is receiving 12VDC and it is rotating slowly, this would indicate a failure of the motor itself.

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1 Answer

Kevin, it is usually best to test for voltage while a part is plugged in. However, the fan can be disconnected after unplugging the appliance power cord to protect the main control from possible damage. The power cord can be plugged back in once the fan wires are disconnected.

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Kevin Armstrong for Model Number GSE25HGHBHBB

temp in refrigerator and freezer are too warm. The evaporator has good frost coverage and the defrost system works. The evap fan didn't seem to be working, so I replaced it. It seemed to be working but didn't seem fast enough. I checked the board and found a burnt spot, so I replaced the board. Waited for 24 hours and the temp would only drop to 12 in freezer and 48 in refrigerator. I checked the fan again and now it won't run. I tested for power at the board (j2-3 and 4). It shows 12.66v. Door switch works the light and I held the switch down, but fan still doesn't run. Can a bad thermistor in the freezer or fridge cause the fan not to run at all? The one that is on the evap line came with the fan, so it is new. I just haven't replaced the compartment ones in the freezer and fridge. Am I missing something? Could the new fan be defective? I heard that you could test the fan with a 9 volt battery. How? HELP!

1 Answer

Kevin, If the fan is not running then this will be an issue with the fan if the fan is getting the proper voltage. The fact that there was a burnt spot on the control board could be an issue where the fan was damaged by the faulty control board.

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1 Answer

David, Test the defrost heater for continuity to make sure that it is good. If it is then the most likely cause for this will be a faulty main control board.

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