Bradley for Model Number LRBC20512TT Hi, unfortunately it doesn't explain which wire is which and so it doesn't make sense to me how 3 & 4 pin relays go down to 2 pin relays. I am under the impression that there is a piece of metal on the relay surface that grounds it acting like a pin. I mean this is a great monkey see monkey do video, but I don't operate like that. I have to understand it as a legitimate fit vs a magical rigging. Besides, if it is grounded somehow it makes me wonder how and do I need a different over load protector or devices to accommodate it? I assume it is appropriately sized for the current it will carry? Your videos are great, I just need more if you could. Unfortunately, I am not at home to investigate my fridge as out of state and a panicky gf is back home. Being I leave a month at a time I have to execute the repair flawlessly as I won't have time to wait for more parts. Hoping to get these in before I get back. My model is LRBC20512TT. I'll be updating all the typical culprits such as OL & Capacitor on top of replacing the starter relay just for piece of mind when gone. Thoughts and explanations on what I need and why as I have never messed with a 2 pin relay and it doesn't register for me on how it works would be appreciated. Thanks, look forward to making an order soon so I can fix it when I get home.
Answer Bradley, this type of relay is a PTC relay. The PTC relay operates by using a ceramic material in series with the start winding so that as more current passes through it, it's resistance increases eventually not allowing the start winding to have adequate access to ground. This causes the compressor to use only the run winding after initial start up. The start relay 6749C-0014E and overload protector 6750CR0004S certainly are common causes for a compressor to not turn on. If the overload protector is receiving 120VAC, then the control would not be an issue. The overload protector disengages the circuit based on amp draw to protect the rest of the system and can be tested for continuity when the power is disconnected from the unit. The only thing left in the circuit if the overload is receiving voltage, the overload is good, and the relay is good (the relay should not rattle when shaken lightly, if it does then the ceramic inside has broken), then the compressor would be bad and would require a certified technician to replace it. Read More... Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com | Monday, May 20, 2019