Marlane for Model Number NE4613W43721 I replaced the heating element on my speed queen marathon electric dryer manufactured in 1990. I ordered the part from All Appliance Pros. First heating element seemed defective. Second replacement elements worked briefly, but only on certain settings on the timer. Now there is no heat at all. How can I tell by looking at it if the element has been damaged, or if it was defective originally? Also, are there other parts that could be responsible for causing the element fail? Do I need to order another element? Do I need the brains and timer? Is there another fuse/ or thermostat that is not on the element that may need to be replaced? I'd really like to save the dryer. I do want to let you know that I was running a space heater in my kitchen that got too hot and I had to reset all the breakers in my basement; after that I noticed a gradual decline in the dryer's efficiency before it did not heat at all. Do you think that had something to do with it? I think I can replace the faulty parts myself. Do you think that it is worthwhile to do so? Thanks, Marlane
Answer Hi Marlene. Great question. The element failure rate has to do w/ a vent flow blockage mainly. Try to look at the back of the dryer w/out moving it. See if in the normal position that there is a kink ,where the lint and moisture begins to build up and back up the heat and clothes moisture back into the dryer. This red-hot heated element will now be a white -hot and expand the element. Over a short time this will expand, contract the element time and time again until it shorts out and by safety it opens the high-limit fuse and thermal fuses. You need to really remove the front panel and access the element, blower hsg thermal fuse and the safety fuse and hi-limit t-stat on the heater can. If any one of these are open then you will not get the voltage to the element. You need to test the element for resistance (11- 18 ohms) not open or shorted to the casing. You will need to invest in the volt/ohm meter part # WB27T10549. As you clean the entire vent system including the vent cap /hood outside to open and close right. Not allowing the night moisture or rain/snow moisture back into the vent to create another block. You need to do this 4/5x yr. so the 15,000 yr house fires will not occur. If the element is damaged it will physically break open or be stuck/welded to the heater case and you may need to yank it out being shorted to the case. The element part # 61927 and the element mount assy. will be burnt black at the point of issue. There is a thermal fuse mounted at the front of the heater can along with the thermal fuse. They now come in a kit part # R9900489. Your space heater runs on 120 vac. The dryer runs on 240 vac, not the same breaker/ circuit. Not likely a related issue. Do you also hear a thumping steady noise as if the blower wheel is stripped on the motor shaft. Blower part # 56000.You will need to hold the motor pulley and unscrew the blower wheel from the motor shaft with a wrench and socket. It is counterclockwise threads. If there is improper air flow this will overheat the internal parts also affecting as we spoke of b/4. Thank You. Read More... Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com | Tuesday, February 14, 2012