"Involuntary" Diy Lawyer for Model Number MAH4000AWQ, SN53381272YK Your advice (with respect to my earlier "won't spin" inquiry) was that I check the three imbalance switches (AP4027729 and AP4026713). Before I go in search of them, should I first confirm that one or more is "open" by (after disconnecting AC power) confirming continuity between Red 23 (wire 1 on connector P3) and Orange 40 (Wire 4 on Connector P2)? Continuity would imply that each is "good"--The absence of continuity would imply that one or more is either open or "bad." Only in the latter event, should I commence my search, correct? On your "Outer Tub" diagram, I find one AP4027729 at location 2 [top] and two AP4026713's at location(s) 16 [side and bottom]. Incidentally, the appliance repairman's $350 charge--in failed resolutio of my "won't spin" complaint--was for his replacement of the motor control board (AP4027728) and the door-lock spin enable switch (AP4028524). But, as long as I'm on the inside of this thing, would you advise that I also presently replace the "Motor-Wax" (AP4026523), just as a precaution to preserve the R-11 resistor on the control board (AP4026827)?
Answer Hello. The best way to test the sensors is to raise the top of the washer and locate the two large blue wires going to the sensors. Then test the two wires together and see if it reads closed. If so, the sensors are good. Then you will check and see if the door locks and turns on the spin enable switch. Even if the door locks, and it does not turn on the switch, the unit will not spin. Test the switch and make sure it is good. Hope this helps. Read More... Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com | Tuesday, October 25, 2011