Answer Hello Jake. Possible Causes/Procedure - Check if the home has low water pressure; open the water faucets. - Unplug washer or disconnect power. - Make sure that cold and hot valves at the water source(s) are turned on all the way. - Check for plugged or kinked inlet hoses or plugged screens in the inlet valves. - Check all hoses for possible leaks. - Check if the customer used an after market “no flood” hose. This can sometimes stop the flow of water to the washer. - Make sure that wire harness connections from Inlet Valves (double and single), Drain Pump, Pressure Switch, & CCU (PR6, DP2, VCH7, and DI6 cavities connectors) are not broken or with wires detached, and that connector internal pins are visible. - Check the continuity between the following components: A. Inlet valve connectors (double and single)to the CCU (VCH7 and DI6 cavities) B. Drain Pump & CCU (DP2 cavity) connectors C. Pressure Switch & CCU (PR6 cavity) connectors. -If the continuity diagnosis failed, Main Harness must be replaced. - Check the resistance of the Inlet valve in each port of the valve (double & single). - Make continuity test to the Pressure SW. - Verify that the pressure switch hose is in good condition and properly connected to tub and pressure switch. - Check hose for possible leaks. Remove hose from pressure switch. Make sure that the open part where the hose is connected doesn’t have debris. - Check pressure switch operation. Remove pressure switch. Blowing air through the opening, the two internal switches are heard one by one. - Check for Suds. - Verify there is not a siphon problem. - Make sure that all the connectors are fully seated. - Plug in washer or reconnect power. - Verify the washer operation by running the Diagnostic Test cycle. - After the diagnostic test has finished, unplug washer or disconnect power and wait for 15 seconds. Read More... Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com | Wednesday, June 25, 2014