Mike for Model Number LE7010XSW0 I replaced the thermal cutoff kit as the original thermal fuse was open. The first kit, the thermal fuse lasted one load. I checked all the connections, coil resistance and got another kit. This cutoff lasted about 6 loads. This time, I removed the heater box, checked the element, checked the ceramic spacers as some suggestions from other people, you indicated it might be a shorted element. The element and spacers are all in incredibly good shape for a unit this age. The bracket holding the element unit is not bent, and the element seems about the same distance from the heater housing. The element reads a steady 10.2 ohms, even with me pushing gently on the coils to see if it has an intermittent short. I carefully checked the wiring and crimp connectors at the heater housing. There is no discoloration, or indication that the wiring ever got near 400 degrees to kill the thermal fuse. I rechecked that the blower wheel is not missing fins, and nothing is blocking the vent hose. The vent hose is metal, and very short. It is just a little more than 1/2 the width of the unit, then exits the house. I also checked that the vent flap was not blocked. At a loss to explain the 2nd thermal cutoff failing. Thanks
Answer Hello Mike, This is usually caused by a restriction of airflow that causes the unit to blow the heated air past the drum seals, back into the dryer cabinet causing an excessive heat build-up inside the cabinet, opening the thermal cutout. This can be caused by a section of flexible ducting used to connect the duct to the rear of the unit that is crimped when the unit is slid back into its' operating position. A missing or improperly positioned felt seal on either end of the drum can cause this issue also. Read More... Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com | Saturday, January 19, 2019