Mike May 13, 2023 for Model Number 110.69902890 Airflow is clear. Replaced cycling thermostat, heating element, thermal cut-off kit. Still breaking the thermal fuse (the flat, small one in the thermal cut-off kit). I have replaced two and don't know what else would cause it to blow.
1 Answer Mike, First check the wire connectors to make sure they are making a good tight connection. You could also have an issue with the vent being to long. Read More...
Duane November 06, 2022 for Model Number 110.70222512 Flame keeps igniting for a few seconds and shuts off then read ignites why. If changes valve coils and flame sensor and cleared air duct
1 Answer Duane, If you cleaned the vent, and changed the flame sensor and valve coils then this would most likely be a faulty gas valve. Read More...
Dan May 27, 2021 for Model Number LEC6646AW0 Hello, The model number for my dryer is LEC6646AW0. I have the following questions: 1. Why my thermal cut-off fuse is always blown out, even with a new one and a new hi-limit thermostat? 2. According to the wiring diagram, the temperatures for each device are: the thermal cut-off-352 F; hi-limi thermostat - 250 F; thermal fuse - 92 C or 198 F; cycling thermostats - 150 F. Why the highest temperature thermal cut off fuse is blown out and leave the rest intact. 3. If I bypass the thermal cut off fuse, (just connect the two wires), it works with cycling, I,e, if reached a temperature, it is OPEN, and if below a certain temperature, it is close. Thank you so much for your help
1 Answer Dan, it would be recommended that the blower wheel is inspected for any build-up that could prevent proper airflow. If this checks good, the element would need to be inspected for any indications of it grounding out once it heats up enough. For the thermal cut-off to continuously fail, the element would have to be heating up excessively, which can be caused by either scenario mentioned. Read More...
Jenn November 19, 2020 for Model Number LE7680XSW1 there are two parts that come with this but only one is shown in the repair video. what do you do with the flatter piece that has the tab?
1 Answer Hello Jenn, the 2 two parts are usually replaced as a set, one is the high-temperature limiter the other is the safety thermal fuse. If the heater starts to overheat for any reason the high limit will open the circuit to the heater, should it fail the thermal fuse will open the circuit Read More...
Dennis January 29, 2020 for Model Number 110.69722800 I have a Kenmore dryer Model 110.69722800 (Whirlpool). The dryer works for a while, and then shuts off, and can't be restarted for a while. Then, after it "cools down" it can be restarted, and again runs until it shuts down again. It seems to get to a certain temperature, and then shuts off, so it sounds like a control problem. Do you any suggestions about what part it needs. The heating element seems to be okay, as it does get hot.
1 Answer Dennis, It would be recommended to check to make sure that there is not a drag on the motor. Check the rollers, idler pulley and check to make sure that the felt seals are in good condition and check the blower wheel to make sure that there is nothing clogging it up. This would be the most likely cause for the issue at hand. If these things check ok then it sounds likely that the motor would be the issue. Read More...
1 Answer Jean, If the unit stops running you need to test the windings of the motor. At the motor test from pin 4 to 5 for 2.4 to 3.6 ohms of resistance and from pins 4 to 6 test for 2.4 to 3.8 ohms of resistance. If this test is out of range then replace the motor. Read More...
Mike January 18, 2019 for Model Number LE7010XSW0 I replaced the thermal cutoff kit as the original thermal fuse was open. The first kit, the thermal fuse lasted one load. I checked all the connections, coil resistance and got another kit. This cutoff lasted about 6 loads. This time, I removed the heater box, checked the element, checked the ceramic spacers as some suggestions from other people, you indicated it might be a shorted element. The element and spacers are all in incredibly good shape for a unit this age. The bracket holding the element unit is not bent, and the element seems about the same distance from the heater housing. The element reads a steady 10.2 ohms, even with me pushing gently on the coils to see if it has an intermittent short. I carefully checked the wiring and crimp connectors at the heater housing. There is no discoloration, or indication that the wiring ever got near 400 degrees to kill the thermal fuse. I rechecked that the blower wheel is not missing fins, and nothing is blocking the vent hose. The vent hose is metal, and very short. It is just a little more than 1/2 the width of the unit, then exits the house. I also checked that the vent flap was not blocked. At a loss to explain the 2nd thermal cutoff failing. Thanks
1 Answer Hello Mike, This is usually caused by a restriction of airflow that causes the unit to blow the heated air past the drum seals, back into the dryer cabinet causing an excessive heat build-up inside the cabinet, opening the thermal cutout. This can be caused by a section of flexible ducting used to connect the duct to the rear of the unit that is crimped when the unit is slid back into its' operating position. A missing or improperly positioned felt seal on either end of the drum can cause this issue also. Read More...
Nick December 03, 2018 for Model Number 11086870100 I am replacing the thermal cut off. Part # 695563. Was a "substitute" part #279769. Cross reference chart shows this is a correct part for the original oem part. But, it does not "bolt up" the same way. What can I do?
2 Answers Nick, the thermal cut off mounts a little different than the original. Hook one side of the cut off into the screw hold and then use only one screw to hold the other side in., that is the only difference in these parts. Read More...
Nick December 03, 2018 for Model Number 11086870100 I am replacing the thermal cut off. Part # 695563. Was a "substitute" part #279769. Cross reference chart shows this is a correct part for the original oem part. But, it does not "bolt up" the same way. What can I do?
2 Answers Nick, If the original thermostat was attached to the element then you would simply screw the thermostat to the side of the housing and then use a jumper wire from the thermostat to the element. There is a video on our site that will show how to install the part. Read More...
Marco September 04, 2018 for Model Number LTE6234AW1 Our Dryer in the Whirlpool LTE6234AW1 Thin Twin Electric Laundry Center stopped heating. I measured the following 3 elements (after removing the cables) with an ohm-meter Thermal Cut-Off Kit showed 8 O (no continuity) High Limit Thermostat 0 O (open continuity) Heating Element 0 O (open continuity) Here is a picture to illustrate: https://imgur.com/a/aXdcO9X I've read a lot of different posts, but couldn't really figured out if any of those parts are bad or not. Cane somebody please help me? Thanks!
1 Answer Marco, All 3 of those parts have to have continuity. Set your meter to the audible setting and touch your leads together and you should hear a beep. Then retest. If you hear a beep the part is good. Read More...