How to Troubleshoot & Replace Ge AP5645233 / WB13K10043 Igniter Glow Bar

Having been the third identical incident in five years, I located the GE Service Bulletin ra04-17 indicating a change to the bake deflector that should prevent future mishaps. The removal and replacement are quite easy but note that most of the sheet-metal screws will need to be replaced. All parts were in stock at AppliancePartsPros.com and delivery was fast. FYI, while the access to the igniter and heat shield is from the front, you will need to pull out the range to unplug the igniter from the back. 

Replaced the ignitor glow bar and deflector oven (which had a hole burned through it). Screws stripped upon disassembly of original deflector oven and needed to be replaced as well. 

Pulled oven to get behind and unplug the old Ignitor. Also replaced heat shield. Be sure and look at the underside if you are already replacing the Ignitor bc it probably has a hole like mine. Biggest problem was removing the screws from the heat shield and reusing the deflector bc the screws would easily strip, I guess due to their exposure to high temps. Honestly a fairly simple repair, especially if pulling your oven out is easy. To remove door, just open and flip the little locks at hinge and lift off. Very easy. 

Pulled trays and bottom burner cover and notice ignitor had a crack. To pull the ignitor, it very simple, pull the oven away from the wall. Remove screws holding on access panel, once access panel is removed unplug ignitor. Inside the lower over the ignitor has 2 screws that need to be removed. 

This is a really easy fix, and I'm not the most handy person out there. The part itself literally just plugs in. The only reason this took so long was all of the unscrewing needed to access the part, then accessing the back of the oven. A couple of changes to the oven design probably would have saved me 30 minutes. Really easy replacement though. 

As others have suggested, it was the glow bar and the deflector plate that needed to be replaced. You will need a nut driver set (1/4"), flat head and Phillips head screwdrivers, work gloves and a light. You'll probably also need to make a trip for replacement screws (#8 x3/8" flat Phillips sheetmetal and #6 x 3/8" nut/washer slotted screws) since some of them will be pretty rusted/stripped. Its not overall a difficult process, just a little time consuming with all the screws. 

Replaced the igniter. Determining that this was the issue was as easy as looking inside and noting that it didn't glow when starting the oven cold. A few screws to take off a plate on the inside, another few screws to take off the heat shield. That gives you access to the igniter and the hold the cord goes through. Two screws to take the igniter off the mount. Access the back of the oven, take off a small plate near the bottom. Unplug the igniter cable. Go back to the front and pull the old igniter cable through to the inside. Push the new igniter cable through the hole from the inside. Go around back and pull it the rest of the way through and plug it up. Go back to the front and mount the igniter. Push excess cord back out the hole. Close oven and set oven to come on. Give it a few seconds and you will be able to see the igniter glow. Turn oven off. Put all shields and plates removed during removal back on. Congrats! The oven is fixed! 

Literally 2 screws and one plug to replace. 5 minutes start to finish 

Myself with assistance from Utube video 

Replace igniter